In reply to eastsideTim :
History shows mixed results. I think I'm settled on new mains, timing set, oil pump. I don't really want to do rod bearings. I don't want to pull the cam. That one is a slippery slope. If I pull it, I'll want a bigger one, then I'll need lifters, studs, then all the rest... it's easy power, but also adds up fast. $$$
We're going headfirst now. Parts cannon loaded and fired. With any luck, I'll have the engine assembled and ready to stab in by the end of the month
Still need intake and exhaust mannys, fuel reg, and mounts. And radiator.
Anyone have experience with drilling/dremeling a standard intake and using it in vortec heads? I've read about it, but hesitant to try. Sitting on a polished Torker, which is wrong for a stock cam, but also shiny so don't judge me. Elsewise I'll just order an eBay one if my WTB ad goes unanswered.
I just gained this much floor space in my garage, and 20% challenge budget towards my swap. Also sold a snare drum, so I think I'll treat myself with an eBay intake and actual headers.
Also double checked my VIN, and the truck actually has (or is supposed to have) 3.73 gears. So it's gonna basically be an economy car. Should land me at 2750ish RPM @60. Who needs to downshift?
Cheap mannys, port cleaning and matching, and we should be running happy. Parts start arriving on Thursday.
To cam, or not to cam. That is the question.
Stock specs, near as I can find, are .414/.429 196* @.050
I'm eying a Summit piece. .450/.450 204/214@.050. Advertised specs with stock rockers. 112LSA. Will fit with no trimming or cutting needed.
I would also add threaded studs which I'm comfortable installing.
Im replacing the timing set anyway, so this is exactly zero more fasteners to worry about.
Just money. $315 to my door. Should I do it? Should I save my money for gas?
Personally, I'd feel regret having it torn apart to that level already and NOT putting an upgraded cam in. But I'm also an enabler, so take this with a grain of salt. Haha.
In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
Wait, you're actually asking? Here? Is it even a question? 
All BS aside like golfduke said if you're that far in there you'll kick yourself at some point down the road. Seems like short money if you're basically there anyways.
I think you should ignore the fact that a new cam is more work, You're gonna want to avoid that future confrontation with the radiator you'd run into doing it later on.
Some people might say a high performance cam could cause problems but I deny that, after all, why set boundaries on your engine build?
Also, if your significant-other has a problem with you spending that extra money, (I'll cover for you)
golfduke said:Personally, I'd feel regret having it torn apart to that level already and NOT putting an upgraded cam in. But I'm also an enabler, so take this with a grain of salt. Haha.
It's not like I'll ever actually do it later either. Parts don't usually get cheaper, and once I seal this lump up to run, I'd have to spend a bunch on gaskets and fluids again to get into the cam.... but I'm fortunate enough to have a wife that is totally ok with me using a bum trans as an excuse to engine swap, and I'd feel slightly guilty asking for more than is necessary to do it the way I told her I would. As cheaply as possible.
Plus, if 255hp (GM advertised output in 1996) isn't enough in this truck, 325 isn't enough either. At least that's the number I think about with the intake/exhaust/porting job I'm already doing.
But I AM already in there...
Well, merry Christmas to me. And early birthday.
Boxing Day brings treats from sparks nv.
In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
Nice, Got mine from Sparks just yesterday, put em on Betsy this morning.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
Pics or it didn't happen
In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
Finally got around to hauling the xr down from the compound so I can sell it to help fund things. Get the truck out of the garage, and I notice something odd.
First thought, "Well, I timed the swap well if the trans mount decided to let go."
So I crawled under the truck to see how bad the damage was, and the mount is fine. And still bolted in. Odd.
I have no idea where that came from. Under a mostly dormant truck, inside my garage.
Anyway, I took a tape measure under there and got an idea of a few things. Might have to get clever at the JY, since the Saginaw is 5" shorter than the T5, meaning my driveline needs a blue pill. Onwards.
I think a RWD 95-01 Explorer driveshaft is about 4-5" longer than an S10 driveshaft, but that is overall length, so the front yoke you switch to is going to have an effect. Standard cab short bed GMT400 driveshaft may work, too, but I'm guessing those are rare in junkyards, even out there.
Edit - it's been a while, but I am trying to remember if that looks anything like the isolator on the catalytic converter mount from my 92.
In reply to eastsideTim :
I'm sure something will turn up. Worst case is I get one a bit too long and have the shop chop it down a bit. It's possible I already have that option sitting around the compound somewhere.
Should have the rest of my engine bits by this weekend, and with any luck I can get the heads close to installed. I still need to order a few things but getting the engine assembled is a big step.
New trans is 4-5" short, current line is 55" u-joint center to center. Local shop said blue pill is $250, moyle is $85. So the search is on for a longer shaft.
Manifold showed today, as did gasket set so I can at least get it marked and scribed for gasket matching. Hoping this weekend to get short block assembled, and heads stripped so I can clean and cut. Going with a quick Chevy orange-ish from a rattle can. Not sure if I paint the covers and intake to match or if I stay with a bit of contrast.
Chinese manifold has entered the chat.
it's not bad. I've seen worse from the big names. Ports are a little sloppy but nothing a little time can't fix. Scribed and ready for abrasion. Just going to find the edges and blend. Not going crazy. Heads will get the same treatment. Not building a race motor, but there's no reason a fellow can't optimize what he has.
TIL, both head bolts and rocker studs are sold in sets PER HEAD. Which is inconvenient.
This always takes longer than I think it will.
Yes, those are files. Doing it by hand. Partially because I don't have a dremel at home, and partly because I got excited and wanted to do something, and partly because I'm a bit worried about a power tool jumping and taking a bite where I don't want it to.
Syclone radiator shows the same PN as standard 4.3, and was sufficient for turbo, auto, and oil cooling. Local supplier has stock on new units. So that is encouraging if the yard lets me down. Also seems to back up what Tim said. I'm interested to see what our 115f summers have to say about it.
still attempting to locate a long enough or too long driveshaft.
Decided to replace rod bearings since cheap insurance. Goal for tomorrow is to clean the bottom end enough for paint and install the cam. And to strip the heads for cleaning porting and rocker stud replacement. Also finish porting the intake.
Does lubriplate have an expiration date? Pretty sure this tube is 10 years old. Anyway, new stick installed, and as much cleaning as I'm gonna do.
Didn't get any more pics. But yall know what rebuilding a dirty 350 looks like anyway. And by rebuilding, I mean swapping a cam and resealing one.
If you're new to engines and haven't built one before, DO NOT FOLLOW MY EXAMPLE!!!
!
not pictured: decks are cleaned up, lifters took a few hour soak in diesel, timing set and cover installed, rear main replaced. Need to torque the mains and install the oil pump then the pan can go back on. I'm not replacing any bearings, decided to be cheap. Not pulling pistons. Not even checking rod bearings. Hopefully I can strip the heads next weekend and start porting.
Oh and my super mild cam. .450/450, 204/214@050 112LSA. Should be a good street cam for the truck. Switching to thread-in rocker studs, may be unnecessary, but if I decide to add 1.6 rockers later (.480 lift) I should be good to go. Not changing any valves or springs.
Short block assembled, heads are just trying to pay for school. Truck serves as workbench.
Happy new year!
Completed today:
Crank sprocket removal
timing set and cover installed
lifters and retainers installed
oil pump, baffle, pickup installed
oil pan cleaned-ish and installed
heads stripped of plugs, valves, rockers
heads given first cleaning. Gonna take them in to work for a proper cleaning.
Still to do
Gasket matching, Threaded stud install, valves cleaned and lapped.
Still waiting on a couple things before I can put the top end together anyway.
Then it's carb rebuild time. That should see me enough to do until the end of the month. We have a trip planned in a couple weeks so that'll eat up some time. Feb holds a couple extra long work weeks. But I should be on track to have the engine swapped and driving by April.
Filler
Filler. Image of victory on next page
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