In reply to TurnerX19 :
Thanks I will try that. Would you apply the heat to right where the tube slips in? Or would that melt the o rings on the tube?
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Thanks I will try that. Would you apply the heat to right where the tube slips in? Or would that melt the o rings on the tube?
If there are O rings on the tube they will be damaged by 500f I am not familiar with that engine, but I have never seen an engine with Orings in this application. An interference fit with steel tube in aluminum casting never leaks without them.
I decided to change up the motor mounts that I made for now. If that doesn't work then I will start over and try to make something based on the stock solstice motor mounts.
I marked where I wanted to cut out the motor mount so that I can go around the dipstick tube.
I started to cut it out in my make shift portaband table, but it was just a little too long so I tried to tilt it up and I got the balde stuck.
Got it unstuck. And had to finish the cuts with the grinder.
After a few cuts on the old engine mounts they went on to the LNF nicely.
I used a cord to tie up some of the wiring harness and hoses and put it in.
When it wouldn't drop all the way down I remembered that I had to trim the support fins out of the old oil pan. So I pulled the engine back out and did that.
Before:
After:
Got it in and test fitted. The tube where the cold air comes out of the turbo to go into the intercooler is just a bit too tall. So for now I just took it off. Once I did that I was able to get the hood to shut flat.
There are a few things I need to do before I take it back out again the put in the new clutch and flywheel that came with the engine.
1. modify trans mount to fit the solstice transmission.
2. Trim just a tad more of the oil pan where it hits the steering at full lock.
3. Trim the drivers inner fender area to make room for the down pipe.
4. Trim passengers side inner fender to make room for the oil cooler line.
5. Figure out what I need to adapt the Mercedes fuel lines to the lnf fuel lines.
Today I worked on the clutch assembly.
I had ordered a pilot bearing tool to remove the pilot bearing so I could replace it.
Two problems
1. the arms in the tool were too wide to go into the hole on the bearing.
2. the tool was made to use a slide hammer with and I don't have a slide hammer.
So I got to use the grinder and welder and came up with this:
It worked. I was able to get the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate on, and torqued to the correct specs.
I then started to measure to see if I needed to make a spacer for the correct air gap for the throw out bearing.
it was way off, like over and inch shorter that it should have been.
In the parts lot I bought there was the replacement clutch stuff. The new flywheel is a single mass where as the old one was dual mass. I also ordered a T56 throw out bearing thinking it would work for the longer gap. I had the stock solstice one that came with the parts I bought. Then I had a colorado one that came with a colorado transmission that I had bought a few years ago.
Turns out they all are about the same size.
Some one on the rwd ecotec swap page offered to send me a LE5 tob for free so I will try that one next. It seems to be longer.
I got the LE5 throw out bearing. It is definitely longer. But according the the shim spacer paper I posted above there should only be clearance/air gap of .2"
Here are the measurements with the new tob I got:
Now it seems like there is still too much space when I fully compress the throw out bearing but I also saw on a you tube video that I will post if I can find it again that the optimum travel from compressed to fully extended would be about .5". Which is what I have without any spacer, 134mm-120mm=14mm or .55".
I am worried if I put in a spacer to get to the .2" of "air gap" I will actually overextend the travel of the fingers on the pressure plate.
Here is my layout of adapting the LE5 throwing bearing to work with the clutch pedal and master cylinder I've got.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383674623142
That was the adapter that I needed.
Checklist for next items to work on:
1. Bench bleed the throw out bearing.
2. Put engine and transmission back together again.
3. Check to make sure engine mount bolts are tightened up.
4 . Reinstall engine and transmission into car.
5. Make/modify transmission mount
6. Put car on ground move steering wheel lock to lock to ensure no binding.
7. Look at fuel system to get correct adapters.
8. Clutch pedal mount
9. Clutch master cylinder mount and plumbing
10. Start looking at which radiator to try to use.
Doesn't look much different but I have the engine and transmission mounts done and installed. So the drive train is no longer supported by jack stands.
I am still working on the clutch pedal mount.
There is still so much to do I am not sure what I will do next.
I would like to just get it running as bare bones as possible and then start working on filling things in.
I may work on the wiring first and then the fuel system after the clutch mount is done.
I think I need to find a wiring diagram for a 2008 solstice gxp so I know what goes to where.
My attempt at a floor mount clutch set up.
Why floor mount?
In reply to yupididit :
I am still trying to do this for under the 2000 challenge rules. So I didn't want to pay up for the 190e oem clutch pedal set up.
I thought it would be easier to do a floor mount, if using a aftermarket set up. I also found the floor mount pedal and master cylinder for a decent price.
Looking back now I should have just paid up for the 190e oem clutch pedal and master cylinder and found room in the budget somewhere. It was a lot of work, for probably a worse outcome.
Posting for reference.
Cobalt SS LNF diagrams.
Here is a picture of the plugs in the engine bay that I need to start to figure out where they go and if I can delete or need.
Working on fuel delivery.
Start with 190e stock fuel delivery hose. Cut off hose, add 3/8th line and clamps.
I hooked up a battery and the fuel pump primed, but that was all so I think I need to wire it to the lnf ecu, right now still just wired to 190e ecu.
Also here is another wiring sheet
Found yet another guide for the solstice wire harness, does this mean that I just need to splice the Mercedes fuel pump wire into the solstice wire coming out of pin #10? And then the Mercedes starter wire splice into the solstice wire coming out of pin #12?
Or do I actually need to go through the BCM? To splice the wires there.
Things to do list:
1. Mercedes ignition to solstice starter wiring.
2. Mercedes fuel pump wiring to solstice computer
3. Setting up the bcm for the solstice with the key to disable the security.
Curious-Have you installed this yet? Any pics?
In reply to 2GRX7 :
I haven't installed it yet. I will try to get a picture when I do though.
OMG i'm so lost. i haven't followed the last few pages of this thread and now i see an Ecotec behind Mercedes headlights. Will catch up later.
I'm getting a kick out of how an Ecotec Mercedes both doesn't make any sense and seems to make perfect sense at the same time.
Here is the stuff that is supposed to make this lnf run outside the solstice it came from. All this stuff came with the swap when I bought it.
So I am going to start going through it.
I am starting with the bcm in this orientation:
This unknown connector is spliced into the top connector on the solstice bcm. It is a purple and green connector.
Starting in on this mess
I think this guy is what reads the signal from the key (luckily supplied by the po) so I am going to try to start with it to see where the wires go.
wires left to right: red white stripe,then maybe black or dark purple, the black with white stripe, then gree.
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