Poor life choices - C4 content

In reply to SkinnyG:

Interesting, I guess spiraling may stretch them out more? I did use ring pliers for the top-2, but spiraled on the oil control rings.

In reply to petegossett: I am a bit distressed about the bolt in and out, the rings should be fine.the cam install looks like MORE Lube on the lobes would not hurt,lots more.

In reply to GTXVette:

Yes, I agree about the bolt situation. They're still nice and snug at least, and I chased the threads to make sure they didn't get damaged during removal/reinstallation.

Thanks for the tip on the lobes, I'll grease them up more tonight before starting on the pistons.

Yeah, I didn't clarify - spiraling on the oil scrapers is fine, because they don't fit the pliers.

Don't forget to use thread sealer on the headbolts - they thread into the water jacket.

Day-43(2-hours):

I got the pistons on the left bank installed. I probably could have made more progress, but I was taking my time to clean & inspect each piston & rod, and being careful when installing into the cylinders. Oh, and I put the first one in upside down, so I got to do it twice.

So not to skip ahead, but what are the plans for suspension?

In reply to Raze:

Short-term it depends where I'm at budget-wise. I may just replace the original stock Bilsteins with another set, or I may install new bushings(I already bought an Energy Suspension set for the front). I'd really like to go with Koni adjustables if I can find $700 worth of parts to recoup though.

Beyond that, no specific plans other than start playing in CAM-S and figure out what the car needs.

What cam did you end up going with? Also, did you degree it?

In reply to BrokenYugo:

I went with the Enginetech ECK888R from Rockauto. The cam & lifter kit was under $92. It's nothing extreme, the specs are .050" Duration-234/244; Cam Lift-.325/.340; Lobe Center -107/117.

that cam needs to go,sorry but look for one in the .450 area for streetability, but it's in so find some 1.6 rockers for now.

In reply to GTXVette:

I'm not sure I understand - I chose a mild cam due to the stock heads. Are you saying I should have selected something more aggressive?

Um - that cam is not really mild at all. You will likely lose some of your power brakes, you WILL need probably a 2500 or 3000 stall converter, and you want to be cruising on the highway at at least that. And you'll want at least 10:1 compression. And you will need to have the heads machined for more lift (you're looking at 0.510" at the valve with 1.5:1 rockers). Send it back.

Get something around 218°@.050, maybe 0.450" lift (0.300" at the cam).

Video of a smaller cam (231°@050, 0.313" lobe lift, 108 LSA) in my truck. (2500 stall, 10.9:1, doctored Q-jet, re-curved HEI, gears, idles at 8inHg in gear - reduced power brakes)

In reply to SkinnyG:

Forgive my ignorance with cam specs. It was suggested elsewhere that I stay under .500 lift and under .280 duration. I think you guys may be talking cam lift vs. valve lift??? Sorry, I'm totally confused here.

I don't mind ordering another cam from Rockauto - they're cheap enough. They have this one for $43.79: .050" Duration-204/214; Cam Lift-.281/.296; Lobe Center -107/117

Or this one for $51.79: .050" Duration-214/224; Cam Lift-.295/.310; Lobe Center -107/117

I think those are more in the range you're suggesting?

Soo Sorry most folks will Quote Total lift at the valve and you speced the cam.sorry and as long as its under .475 at the valve it's fine .there is a retainer kit that will allow for more lift without cutting down the stem guides,which is the issue with those heads. use 1.5 rockers(stock). SkinnyG is right tho.. just multiyply the numbers by the rocker ratio 1.5 hope I didn't scare you

In reply to GTXVette:

Ah ok, that makes much more sense - thanks!

$43 cam. Son of a bitch. I need a small block.

This is the spec sheet on the current cam, they're calling it a "stage 3" which I believe typically means "kinda big for a mild build of mostly stock stuff".

mazdeuce wrote: $43 cam. Son of a bitch. I need a small block.

Even the big cams can be cheap, Summit will sell you a solid lifter race cam, with lifters, for $140.

This is an excellent opportunity to swap the engine over to a hydraulic roller cam.

That first new cam you listed would be great for a mild engine.

The second one is starting to push things. Should have a "noticeable" idle, and might be about as big as you want to go with the stock converter. It might work just fine, but if you just want to stab in a cam and go, I'd pick that first one. 204/214.

Your friend suggesting stay under 280 duration - that's "advertised" duration. A 280 cam will usually be around 230°@.050" lift. I'd suggest a 268 or a 260° cam for good street manners, great torque, and a mimimal "snow ball effect" of changes.

That 204/214 cam is good. It would work quite well, give good power, good economy, good power brakes, good driveability.

SkinnyG wrote: Video of a smaller cam (231°@050, 0.313" lobe lift, 108 LSA) in my truck. (2500 stall, 10.9:1, doctored Q-jet, re-curved HEI, gears, idles at 8inHg in gear - reduced power brakes)

Are you still running on pump gas at 10.9:1?

Day-44(2-hours):

I got the right bank of pistons installed without any problems, although I noticed two of the rod caps had an extra notch in them. Any idea why?

Next I pulled out the oil cooler adaptor and put it in the solvent can. I presume I can use standard heater hose for these rather than order exact replacements?

After that I put in the oil filter adaptor. I couldn't remember whether mine had a gasket underneath it, but a bit of googling indicated that cars with oil coolers should have a gasket, so I installed one.

Next, I started assembling the oil pump. Apparently when upgrading to a metal-collared shaft, it no longer snaps onto the pump drive. Although the block keeps it from falling to the floor when upside down, it's no longer engaged in the pump drive. So I'll have to be careful during installation of the distributor to make sure it engages fully.

Also, I couldn't get the pickup to drive into the pump at all. I put it in the freezer overnight, hopefully that allows it to be driven in.

Crackers wrote:

SkinnyG wrote: Video of a smaller cam (231°@050, 0.313" lobe lift, 108 LSA) in my truck. (2500 stall, 10.9:1, doctored Q-jet, re-curved HEI, gears, idles at 8inHg in gear - reduced power brakes)

Are you still running on pump gas at 10.9:1?

It seems to be fine on 91. I have 0.040" quench, which seems to be the ticket to make all this work. I "polished" (roughly) the combustion chambers to take out all sharp edges. I'm running 14° base, 34° total, all in by 3000rpm. Vacuum advance is 18° full manifold, and no evidence of detonation by ear, on the plugs, or on the pistons (heads were off two years ago).

I keep telling everybody that "on paper this shouldn't work," but it's been my daily for 3 years now.

In reply to SkinnyG:

It's very surprising to say the least.

I'd love to see what you did to the heads.

In reply to SkinnyG:

I'd say that on paper it probably should work, your average redneck throwing a SBC together just doesn't pay enough attention to detail to properly execute it. My dad claims to have carefully built a 10.5:1 domed piston 327 with iron heads that ran fine on whatever unleaded gas was in the 80s, which I assume wasn't that great.