Dusterbd13 wrote: ...The revenue part story pcap at it and go retest.
I'm pretty excited too, hope this is the answer.
In reply to Pete Gossett:
It's been freaking 2 hours ... how far is Advance Auto from you?
Wow. I should really read talk to text before submitting.....
Parts store distributor cap and retest. Not whatever the berkeley that was......
In reply to Dusterbd13:
I just figured you were drinking.
In reply to Stampie:
Not in 13 years.
And in a strange coincidence, i have very rarely been arrested in 13 years.
In reply to Stampie:
I totally read it in Dale's voice from King of the Hill. 
Oh, and it was dinner time for me, and then the critters. I'll pick up a cap & rotor when I drop off the wheels & tires in the morning.
I resemble that remark....
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Believe it or not but I've never been arrested. Been real close many times though. Don't know if that makes me a poor excuse of a redneck or a smart redneck.
If three weeks of chasing this stumble turns out to be a bad distributor cap you will never live this down...I'll make sure of that
This is what's supposed to be there, I think yours is broken off.
I would guess having to jump that huge gap would lead to a weak spark, which will make it run funny. If it weren't for it being HEI (which was developed to be hot enough to handle 0.080 plug gaps) it probably wouldn't have run at all.
Drivability problems like this are always something stupid that got overlooked.
I'm looking forward to reading tomorrow that the car is running great. 
Go Get the cap and rotor and DRIVE to the Tire Store, But keep the best one of each In Case of emergency(Old Clapped out Tire is better than NO Tire) The reason for a rotor is with that Gap Its Like Welding with that arc and Hei's can burn through the Cap And rotor.
I suspect Pete is out terrorizing Biloxi with his new distributor cap
In reply to Ovid_and_Flem:
Unfortunately the miss is still present, although the RPM range may have closed slightly. It seems to come on around 1950rpm and is cleared up around 2150.
Looking at the original cap it seems the button was installed on top of the insulating washer.
In reply to Pete Gossett:
Well, FARK.
Maybe we're looking at a cascading failure and the coil was damaged?
In reply to BrokenYugo:
Coils are pretty simple, I'm not sure they can fail in a manner that only affects a narrow RPM range?
I pulled the power valve from the carb just to make sure it hadn't ruptured. It looked ok to me, but since I had another new one I went ahead and replaced it. Then promptly stripped one of the holes for the bottom driver's side primary fuel bowl bolt. I shoved some epoxy in, followed by the bolt. No idea if it will hold enough to keep it from leaking, or if I'll have to try & track down a helicoil for it. It's setting up now, I'll give it an hour or two and see what happens.
My thinking is you get a miss under load when a coil starts to go (from internal insulation failure, which tends to happen when it's overworked or allowed to run unloaded) or you have weak spark from some other problem (e.g. bad connections on the 12V side), a mild pushrod V8 starts to get into the meat of the torque curve around 2000. You also improved spark strength by fixing the button problem and saw the miss reduced.
I had something like this happen on the Yugo when the original coil took a crap, it started as a stumble at launch.
Ok need some guidance please...
I checked the primary bowl after letting the expoxy set up, and confirmed there are no fuel leaks. However now it's running like absolute ass and won't even idle. It sounds like a vacuum leak, but I couldn't find it with starting fluid.
I had the primary bowl and metering block off. The gaskets are good. The vacuum advance is plugged in. I'm not sure where I could have intruduced a leak?
While it was apart I replaced the power valve & swapped the 66 primary jets for 72 ones. And then of course stripped the screw hole & epoxied it... What am I missing?
Ok, I found a vacuum leak - the manifold port under the front bowl. Gas leaked onto the rubber cap & it split. Now I'm 99% sure there's no leak, but it hunts & surges, and generally just acts like it has WAY too large of cam.
Would swapping the primary jets from 66 to 72 cause that?
Oh, and to test it I pulled the vacuum line from the brake booster - that caused it to run better!!?!?
Ok, I'm now pretty sure the 72 jets must be too large for the primaries, because I look like I'm rolling coal...
Interestingly, it didn't drive bad low-speed to the corner & back, but I need spacers for the new wheels(which I somewhat expected) because they're hitting the rear swaybar over bumps.
I changed the oil for the first time since the rebuild today. I know metal flakes are to be expected, but does this seem within reason?
Here's a pic of the new wheels & tires. I do need to get a set of spacers though. Not sure if I love them or hate them...
You can see they need to come out about 3/4".
That's a bold choice.
In reply to Woody:
Not so much "choice" as "set of 18x10 Corvette wheels for $200". I figure I could always plasti-dip them if I think they're obnoxious, but I've not yet made that decision.
I definitely need to lower it a bit now though.
I like the wheel style, but they need to be a bright silver or gunmetal.
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