How did the install go? I was a little sad that I didn't get to have a part in it.
red5_02 wrote: How did the install go? I was a little sad that I didn't get to have a part in it.
All the stuff bolted on without much issue!
I'll have more details in a few days when I have more time to sit down in front of the Intarwebs!
I had that Whiteline Panhard bar until you sold me the Fays2. The guy who bought it from me seems to like it. The bushings even match his paint job! 
We've got pretty much the same setup on the 2011 GT at Vorshlag. We received a pre-production Watts to test and have been beating on it since before Solo Nationals. We also used the Whiteline rear bar for tire clearance - we've got a 315 completely under the stock rear fender. After Nats we also put on the relocation brackets and the lower arms for Global Time Attack. The car is on the rack twice a week for maintenance or checkups. We've been REALLY happy with the Whiteline parts.
modernbeat wrote: We've got pretty much the same setup on the 2011 GT at Vorshlag. We received a pre-production Watts to test and have been beating on it since before Solo Nationals. We also used the Whiteline rear bar for tire clearance - we've got a 315 completely under the stock rear fender. After Nats we also put on the relocation brackets and the lower arms for Global Time Attack. The car is on the rack twice a week for maintenance or checkups. We've been REALLY happy with the Whiteline parts.
I'm testing the control arms this weekend. How do you like the roll steer characteristics of the anti-squat brackets?
The effect is negligible relative to everything else that is going on.
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2767/project-mustang-50-part-ii-controlling-body-roll-with-whiteline.aspx
Great project! Very informative read!
The first thing I bolted on was the strut tower bar, which replaced a "Brand X" one I had previously. Although the previous bar was lighter, it really was not very effective at stiffening the chassis. This is because the "bolt holes" at either end of the bar were actually slots, presumably to make the bar fit all S197 Mustangs regardless of manufacturing tolerances in chassis or bar. The result, however, is a bar that has a far lower efficacy than it could. The reason is simple; the slots on either end of the bar do not effectively support the strut tower bolts, because the only thing holding the bar against the bolt is the friction of the nut.
The Whiteline bar, on the other hand, has holes on the brackets. Manufacturing tolerances are addressed by making the bar adjustable for length and height. This is done via the use of eccentric bolts at either end of the bar:
Loosening the jam nuts front and rear and rotating that eccentric varies the length and height of the bar, allowing it to be snug on all S197 chassis and giving it enough clearance to fit most intake manifolds and superchargers. Because I'm using the stock hood and intake manifold, I lowered it all the way. Even so, I have enough room to remove the "5.0" engine cover without removing the bar first.
Now, front sway bars are a bit involved on the 2011+ S197s, mainly due to the addition of a front aero tray and a "K-brace" that stiffens the front subframe. (FYI, Whiteline makes a brace for '05-10 Mustangs that don't have this brace from the factory.)
Here is the aero trays and "K-brace" removed:
These aren't difficult to remove, per se, though there are a LOT of bolts to remove, and the pieces are slightly bulky when you're only working on jack stands and ramps.
Now, once those are out of the way, we can access the stock sway bar. It is very difficult to photograph this thing when the car is only on jack stands. The bar is smack-dab against the radiator support/K-member (which is the big black chuck of metal in the upper right of this picture). The K-member holds the bushings through which the bar rotates. You can also see the end where the bar connects via the end link to the front strut:
Removing the bar is a simple matter of disconnecting the end links, unbolting the "saddles" that hold the center bushings, and slowly lowering it off the chassis. Care must be taken to not scrape the steering rack boots, however.
Here is a comparison of the stock sway bar and the Whiteline unit:
And the stock end links and the new, adjustable Whiteline ones:
Now, the fun began. The factory saddles have a backing plate held on with tabs. Presumably, this was to enable the sway bar and its associated bushings and mounts to be manufactured and assembled elsewhere, shipped to Michigan, and bolted onto the car in one piece.
The Whiteline kit reuses the bushing saddles (though not the bushings themselves), so we had to grind those tabs off:
Using a band saw to clean up the backing plates, we then shot them with some black enamel to prevent rust:
Always put a layer of Teflon tape over your sway bar before applying the grease. The Teflon adds another layer of lubrication and actually helps "hold" the grease, preventing it from squeaking:
Here's the bar and new end links installed. Both end links were set to the factory length, because this car is not yet corner-weighted. Therefore, there is no pre-load to adjust. I set the bar to its softest setting (which is still stiffer than stock).
Installed:
The stock rear sway bar has a bit of an odd setup. It connects directly to the axle tubes adjacent to the rear wheel. It pivots around those blue things that I call "drop links":
This configuration, while adequate for stock use, is rather difficult to be modified for adjustability. There are no end-links, and the bushing mounts on the axle don't allow multiple mounting points. Several vendors make adjustable setups for this, but they cost nearly $1,000.
Whiteline's solution was to completely redesign the sway bar, mounting it to the axle and replacing the drop links with end links:
The rear bar is held on with only 4 bolts. Removing it is easier than changing the oil. Here's a comparison between it and the new Whiteline one:
The new bar bolts to the axle using "U-bolts..."
...and installs adjustable end-links where the drop-links were previously:
Here it is all bolted up:
Body roll is greatly reduced. The effect is that the inside front tire actually provides a measure of feedback now, as the body is not leaning off of it nearly as much.
It is also nearly impossible to upset the chassis, even during glorious, smoky power slides.
the whiteline watts link: how deep is it from flange on axle housing to center of pivot? and the mustang youre running is still usinng an 8.8 like the explolrers, right?
reason im asking is that im stilll debating going 8.8 in my duster, and would like to run a watts with my leafs.
michael
Meanwhile I whisper in your ear... TIRES
Dusterbd13 wrote: the whiteline watts link: how deep is it from flange on axle housing to center of pivot? and the mustang youre running is still usinng an 8.8 like the explolrers, right? reason im asking is that im stilll debating going 8.8 in my duster, and would like to run a watts with my leafs. michael
I don't have the Watts linkage yet, so I can't really answer your question.
Call up Whiteline USA, though. Their tech guys are pretty good.
Apexcarver wrote: Meanwhile I whisper in your ear... TIRES
Yes, I'm working on it!
In reply to Dusterbd13:
All 2011-2013 Mustangs use the 8.8, including the V-6s.
RexSeven wrote: In reply to Dusterbd13: All '86-13 Mustangs use the 8.8, including the V-6s.
FTFY. 
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2802/project-mustang-50-optimizing-weight-transfer-and-roll-steer.aspx
Nice build so far. I'm planning more upgrades for my 05 over the next year, so I had a few questions -
Like the Nurburgrings, I'm hoping to get the machined version, but why did you go 8" wide instead of 9.5" with a 275 tire? I'm running 255s on my factory 17" wheels now, and I thought all the new pony's had 8.5" wide rims from the factory...
How's the highway ride with the Ultralight springs? I'm finally ready to drop the ride height, but I want to preserve the GT car nature and keep enough comfort for long hauls.
Is the Whiteline watts link adjustable like the Fays unit? Any thoughts on one vs the other besides unsprung weight?
I need to take the time to read the link you just posted, looks like good info. Thanks!
I have 285's on my GT500 wheels (05 GT) with watts, strano bars, D specs, etc and I feel like I should be going to 315's.. These cars like tire and lots of it. This is with my car tipping the scales at 3280#
AutoXR, what drop are you running? Think the 285s will clear up front? I'm looking for the widest square setup I can get. The Nurburgring 18x9.5s are the same offset as the gt500wheels, I think.
You'll need to log in to post.
