I got some aftermarket control arms with poly bushings, and they don't quite fit in the subframe. Can i use all-thread to spread the ears open a bit (i think 1/8" would do it) or is that too much?
I got some aftermarket control arms with poly bushings, and they don't quite fit in the subframe. Can i use all-thread to spread the ears open a bit (i think 1/8" would do it) or is that too much?
Is it the bushing or the control arm itself that causes them to not fit?
Well that's a good point, now that I think about it again, the back bushings weren't too wide to fit in the control arm pocket, i just couldn't get it in because the front bushing was hitting the subframe ear. Damn, that probably means my control arms are wrong?
Could i open the front bushing ears rearward and the rear bushing forward to make it fit? it doesn't need much...
In reply to budget_bandit :
Maybe.
Are you sure the bushings are installed to their correct depths?
unless i'm missing something, these aren't gonna fit... (other end of the a-arm is aligned). The bushings are the same with but the arm is ~1/8" too narrow...berk
Bummer
budget_bandit said:
unless i'm missing something, these aren't gonna fit... (other end of the a-arm is aligned). The bushings are the same with but the arm is ~1/8" too narrow...berk
Bend those tabs til it fits. Then tighten the bolt down until its parallel again. Back off 1/2 turn and locktite the nut.
Make sure the arm swingswith minimal pressure / force.
wvumtnbkr said:budget_bandit said:
unless i'm missing something, these aren't gonna fit... (other end of the a-arm is aligned). The bushings are the same with but the arm is ~1/8" too narrow...berk
Bend those tabs til it fits. Then tighten the bolt down until its parallel again. Back off 1/2 turn and locktite the nut.
Make sure the arm swingswith minimal pressure / force.
This. Done it a few times on old gm a bodies. Used a crescent wrench to spread the ears, block of wood and a 3lb hammer to slam them home.
You're running into tolerance stack up and 50 years of metal stresses.
I appreciate the words fellas. I'll massage them in there tomorrow.
tonight I started tackling the rear window rust. Tedious, as always, but i'm getting faster (i think).
factory lead seam...how do i get this out? Can i grind/cut it if i wear a respirator?
Lead poisoning is a real thing. I would do everything possible to prevent airborne particles. Shearing it out would be ideal, but not too practical. A saw cut is not ideal but better than any abrasive method. Definitely mask up and I would not do it inside the shop. Best to cut out the entire area beyond the edges of the leaded area if possible. I worked in the radiator repair business back in the brass/copper time frame. I had my blood lead level checked and in was high. Also found out I was bringing lead dust home on my uniforms. Be careful.
maybe i'm just a weakling, but i can't get these ears to spread open (i suspect because of the return flanges on them) so the arms don't fit
Nothing that is aftermarket "bolt on" ever bolts on without modification in my experience, especially if it's from a name brand performance company. OEM or circle track parts are the only things I ever have luck with. Get a couple different blocks of wood and a big hammer to spread those mounting tabs out. The Pro Touring market thinks that +/- .050" is spaceman tolerances. I can spit out +/- .004" on a $200 3d printer and can eyeball 20 thou with a damn angle grinder.
...sorry for the small rant this just brought bad memories of energy suspension bushings on my C4 suspension.
Would it help if the bushings were flipped in their sleeves? Not sure from these pictures if they are the same width on each side of the sleeve.
I wouldn't hesitate to return them and try again with a different product before I modified the subframe.
Could you put the arm in a floor jack and spread it apart a little?
Shavarsh said:Would it help if the bushings were flipped in their sleeves?
Seeing the pix above, I thought the same thing.
I don't believe that flipping the bushings would help, it's hard to see in the pictures but there is a small metal bushing protruding opposite the white poly bushing that are approximately the same thickness. They are going to let me return them, so i'm going to do that and then decide on my next step. I'll either buy another cheap eBay set and hope to get a better pair (guys on the nova forums seem to have success running these) or i'll rebuild the stock ones with new bushings/ball joints. I'll lose 2deg of caster vs the aftermarket arms but that might be alright
Made some good progress tonight. Torched out the lead and got the window channel wire-wheeled.
because i'm so slow at metalwork, i opted to purchase these pre-made window channel repair pieces. I think the time savings at only $200 will be well worth it. I need to do a little more trimming to get the final fitment right, but these 2 are almost ready to be welded in.
so that's very exciting! The eBay seller also agreed to accept the return of the control arms, so i boxed those back up and will be dropping them off at FedEx on the way to work tomorrow.
In reply to budget_bandit :
Good call on the pre-fab window channel
A lot of dudes really get their thrills making stuff like that patch around the window, but not me. I'd buy a commercially made patch like you did. I'd rather spend my energy on other things.
Is that the last bit of rust that you need to address, or is there more?! Exciting nonetheless!
Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) said:A lot of dudes really get their thrills making stuff like that patch around the window, but not me. I'd buy a commercially made patch like you did. I'd rather spend my energy on other things.
AMEN!!!!
i have things i enjoy, and thing i do because i have to.
yeah all good points, and i'm trying to be honest with myself about my fab skills (or lack thereof). I could theoretically fabricate an equivalent to these patches out of scrap for less money, but it would probably take 3 months, look nowhere near as nice, and cost part of my ever dwindling sanity. This project has already taken more time than I initially hoped (what project doesn't) so I'm totally fine with spending a little money to save gobs of time.
This is the last area of rust that I will be addressing, yes. Really, there won't be any "structural" rust left on the car after this. There are areas of surface rust that i will be leaving alone, there are a few rust holes in the rear quarters and front fender bottoms, but i'm not touching any of that. This is not going to be a show car or a restoration, it will be functional and ratty and cool. So the rear window won't fly out, my feet won't touch the ground through the floor, and i can put a 12 pack of beer in the trunk and it won't fall through. Everything else will be what it is
Progress continues. I only was able to grab a couple hours to work but I got the first channel welded in part way. It's fully rosette welded on the bottom, and partly welded on the top.
OMG that repair panel was money well spent! I can't imagine how many hours it would have taken to make that progress with flat sheet.
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