Rev plays with metal (casting content inside(picture heavy))

DrBoost wrote: I'm 3d printing parts for a member here. He's going to use the parts to cast molds for his foundry. I hope he posts his results. This stuff is all very cool.

I really hope that works out. If it's ok with the other member, I'd like to see some of them before hand, even if it's privately.

That is one of the big draws to a 3d printer for me, because I'm not exactly a good artist, and lost PLA can do some intricate shapes I just can't carve or build otherwise.

For the propane tank, I actually saw something in a dream last night I'm going to have to try. Cut a channel out of some schedule 80 steel pipe, weld a flat top and a nut or junk socket onto the top, and twist with a big breaker bar. Putting that down as a note just so I don't forget, because it sounds like it could work in my head.

So with good news on the Kastolite front, I had to get my lazy ass back to work on this project.

So this happened.

I immediately thought I cut the top too short, but time will tell. It's 3.5" tall at it's highest point. Should be able to stuff some ceramic wool in there and cover it with a thin coat of Kastolite though.

I'm also very aware it's not the most even/level cut. I measured 11" from the bottom every 4 inches or so, used carboard as a straight edge to connect the dots, made a starter cut with my angle grinder and finished by ratcheting the tank to the table and working the sawzall around. Honestly, I'm surprised it came out as good as it did.

I am now at a strange part. I know I need to make a hole on a tangent for the burner. I have no freaking idea how to cut an angled hole on a round surface. I could maybe burn it with a torch, but I don't have a cutting torch.

I'm also a little stuck as far as drilling out the top vent. It may be pentagon shaped instead of round, if I can get my grinder inside the handle.

So what did you do to get the valve out, I've been failing at that.

A spare piece of 2" steel pipe about a foot long. Bored a hole the whole way through at one end that would fit the end of a crowbar, and cut a notch in the bottom to go over the valve like a collar. Ratchet strapped it to a tree, stuck a BIG screwdriver through the handle on the tank as a counter, and added a cheater bar to the end of the crowbar for extra leverage. He pushed one way, and I went the opposite. Surprisingly, no head injuries.

Tip for drilling the hole in the side. Drill a hole the size of the pilot drill of a hole saw and lay the bit over in the hole to the angle you want your big hole. Now, instead of a drill bit in your hole saw use a long 1/4 bolt with the head cut off. It will need to stick out long enough for your hole saw to clear the side of the tank before it starts cutting. Run the hole saw in carefully, it may catch at first. Once it gets in part way it will cut a perfect oval you are looking for.

Calculator/tutorial

That link above was given to me on the casting forums. It's a calculator and template maker for connecting pipes. What does this have to do with casting? It helps you find the right angle and size of hole to cut for burner to go in the side.

The following block quotes are a common question, and a bit of a how to. That's why I'm including both

Question said: Hey Petee, I played with that calculator, looks cool. I think I understand the basics. Example. 18" Cylinder, 3" branch pipe (tuyere) but WHAT ANGLE??? 30? Is this the angle viewed from the top of the furnace looking down at which the tuyere pipe mounts to the furnace body? If set right, my guess is this sets the angle to get the necessary swirl effect? Thanks for clearing this up for me. (public schools math for idiots here!) lol J

Answer said: The angle looking from the side is the "angle". It decides whether the air blast is pointing up or down. We want it straight. So we want an angle of 90. The pipe comes straight in perpendicular. What we would normally think of as the angle looking from the top is the "offset". 0 offset would give a centered T. It's what allows you to move the branch pipe off center. In your example subtract the branch pipe major radius from the cylinder major radius to get the offset. 9-1.5=7.5. This brings the edge of the branch pipe tangent to the cylinder. But... we want to be tangent to the inner bore of the furnace so that's the cylinder diameter we want to use. This will give a CCW swirl. A negative offset brings it to the other side of the cylinder giving a CW swirl. You have to decide which side of the debate you're on lol. (Actually since we're at an angle of 90 you can just invert your pattern). I cut my pipe end first and marked the tank with it. Once the tank is cut you can place your inner form and mark it with the pipe end.

So I just got back from Fasted58's place with all kinds of refractory and goodies. Good guy that Fasted58. Of course, it's raining. But now it's all on me to get everything together.

I'm probably going to start working on it nights this week, but probably won't have any real progress for another couple weeks. Autocross and party this weekend, might have to go see patgizz next weekend, then autocross again the next 2 weekends, plus a wrestling match in WV. The second half of June and July are wide open though, so I should be making bunches of progress then.

I have a small pile of cast aluminum scraps laying around if you can use it

I'm always a fan of scrap.

Decided to cut my drain hole tonight. After completely blunting my Hole saw trying to get through, I improvised. Used a self tapping screw and drilled all around the circle, then a fine drill bit, then just pried the circle out.

Any tips on smoothing out the hole? It's going to be covered in refractory cement, and in the bottom, but I'd like to clean it up a little bit for while I'm working.

minivan_racer wrote: So what did you do to get the valve out, I've been failing at that.

In another thread, someone asked what I use to get the nozzle off the propane tanks. This is it. A solid rod through the collar of the tank, a crowbar through the top hole, and pull them together. Or way easier, have someone else available and push the bars together.

I was working by myself most of the day, so I couldn't get an action shot, but this is what it looks like. The taller hole facing the camera goes over the nozzle, with a hammer it will lock onto the threads. The shorter hole on the back should catch the back of the nozzle. A little penetrating oil never hurts either. Those are one inch holes towards the top because my 18" screw driver fits through it perfectly, and there is a flat plate welded onto the top to help stiffness and to hammer it on easier.

It looked legible on my phone, hopefully that translates to legible here.

But this is an analysis of the 100ish pounds of aluminum I have to cast with. A friend of mine ran a piece through the spectrometer where he works.

No real surprises considering it was originally wheels, but now I look fancy and smart with a printout of my metal quality.

While I'm in thread update mode...

I cut the vent for my foundry lid. Freehand, not terrible.

My attempt at a contour gauge failed miserably, so this hole where the firetube goes in is kinda berky. Should be fine when I actually put the ceramic wool and kastolite in though.