Happy Birthday Adrian!
What time are you leaving the house?
Happy Birthday Adrian!
What time are you leaving the house?
In reply to wawazat :
Too late been and gone. Trader Joe’s, Market Square and Great Lakes coffee. Top down, windows up, scarf over column and doors locked with other key. But let’s face it, who’s gonna touch this car around here other than to have it towed as an eyesore!!!
Happy Birthday.
I'll get a look at the system this evening and post anything that may be helpful. I had a car with this issue once and ended up replacing the shift mechanism, but your's may be simpler.
Sometimes the key can be stuck, or a car won't start because it's not quite recognizing that it's in Park. Try 'gently slamming' the shifter from (P) to (D) a few times. see if it makes any difference in your stuck key issue.
These wires that are spliced made me curious when you posted the pic. Probably unrelated... do you know what they are?
No, no idea what those wires are, they've always been there. Nothing ever attached or plugged in, nor anything I could even try to plug in. I tried the 'gently slamming from P, to D and back' a few times. Note, I based gently on a 600lb horny silverback gorilla who's not had any for a month and just lost his favorite mate to a 900lb Silverback. That kind of gentle seemed to work!
So, the key is currently out. Let's see if it's an issue. What is is not seeing to understand it's in P?
Adrian_Thompson said: ... What is is not seeing to understand it's in P?
There is a "multifunction switch" that mounts on the transmission. The shift linkage passes through it. The multifunction switch has electrical contacts for PRND. The position of the Shifter --> Cable --> Switch tells the TCU what gear position is selected. I think that the aft end of the shifter cable is the only adjustment. The problem may be that the contacts have a little corrosion or wear, shifter cable not properly mounted, or adjustment is slightly off.
Want Pics?
So, a long time later....
People may have seen my other thread at the end of June where I was having issues with it running rough and stalling. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/boxster-m96-peeps-quick-remote-diagnosis-required-asap/155080/page2/
Cliff notes.:
The car is a base 99 2.5L M96 .20. THe chassis has 96K miles on it, but the engine was brand new fitted by Porsche in 2005 at 56K miles, so the engine from new only has 40k miles on it.
The car started a very slight stumble while cruising at steady throttle, but all was ok under any, even light, load. The next morning my wife was on her way to work it stumbled, the check engine light came on and it died. She called me, I went over there to get her. By the time I got there it had restarted, moved a few yards and it died again. I was really worried as once I got there I saw a small puddle of oil then a few drips where she'd moved forward. Obviously, I feared I may have the dreaded IMS bearing paperweight.
Thing I have checked:
Regular OBD II codes with a blue tooth dongle and a Foxwell plug in unit. Nothing shows up.
Oil drained and checked for forign matter, one tiny fleck found.
Oil filter cut appart, nothing found.
Oil pan dropped to check for debris, nothing found. Now re-filled with cheap fresh oil.
Plugs pulled, nothing amis, no oil in cylinders.
At this point life happened, I got a new job, vacations, DIY'ing the roof on one of our rentals, my father in law having a stroke and needing care plus moving him and my bed bound mother in law back into their own home etc.etc. In the mean time I've bought three other cars for me, my wife and my youngest daughter. Last weekend was the first weekend where life hasn't been crazy in a long time. I figured I'd reached the end of my diagnostic ability so I wanted to take it to a decent garage for them to do the diagnosis. I borrowed Tom Spangler's Expedition and trailer and took it up to Steve's European Auto in Waterford Mi on Sunday before early snowpocalyps hit the area. Now, the car has sat for three months in the garage, but it started right up, but it was making a horrible screeching sound, so I was more worried than ever that it may be the IMS bearing.
Well this morning they called and the car was a no start. They thought that was part of the issue, but when they called me I told them I'd driven it on and off the trailer under it's own power. Apparently after sitting inside for a few hours it started right up. They immediately heard the noise and shut it off. First they say they can't get anything to communicate with the car, non of their readers/machines (they are known for working on Porsche's so have the correct equipment) so they can't read any issues. They put it up on the hoist and started again for a short time. They say the sound is coming from the trans not the engine. So right now I'm not sure what to do. I doubt there's much point in paying them to further diagnose the car. The trans has never been great (it's an auto remember) I do occasionally get it not engaging gear properly and revving to the moon. but as I've changed the trans oil three times it's got better in engaging and not slipping. They say they can get it rebuilt for $2,200-3,000 excluding R&R. I can R&R it myself so at the least I'd get it back, remove it and get them to rebuild it, or someone else. Either that or just buy a used trans, but I'm not sure how good a used one would be. And no, before saying it converting from auto to manual isn't practical. It would be easier to go and buy a manual car to start with. Too much has to change to make it practical.
So, do I:
What sort of witch craft is needed to rebuild a modern(ish) ZF automatic transaxle? Is it practical for someone who's never been inside an auto before? What are the costs of parts? I see here you can get 'rebuild kit's' starting at $401, but by the time I add all the options that's over $800 and I don't know what I do or don't need.
Advice? Suggestions?
Spend an hour or so watching Jeff Richardson's videos about the ZF5HP19, then ask yourself:
I would never conside rebuilding an automatic transmission myself. ...then I watched a couple of his videos and realized, it's just like any other hydro-electro-mechanical box of horrors. Sure let's do it. I don't have a bad transmission yet, but I'd love to watch you do yours.
So, even if you fix or replace the trans, you still have some kind of mystery ailment in the engine, right? There has to be a reason it didn't want to start this morning when it was outside in the cold. Also, just to clarify, they couldn't get their equipment to talk to the car, or the car isn't giving any codes? Because if it's the former, something electronic has to be majorly wrong, right?
You may be looking at the tough choice here, bud. 
In reply to AAZCD :
Well, despite your prompting I think I'm leaning towards (most likely) putting in a used trans or (sudden influx of cash) getting this one rebuilt. I will go and check the vids out though.
In reply to Tom_Spangler :
It may not be as bad as all that. Perhaps the poor running was the trans starting to fail and the hesitation I felt was actually it momentarily slipping? At this point I think the best be is to get it home and pull the trans. Then I can for sure check the IMS bearing and RMS for issues and also look at the cam sensors that have previously been suggested by our forum guru AAZD.
Tom_Spangler said:You may be looking at the tough choice here, bud.
it's not a tough choice from where i'm sitting. part that berkeleyer out on eBay over the winter, and in the spring you've got a small pile of cash to burn on a car with a proper transmission.
Or do a V8 swap with some other transmission, and race it against AAZCD's when they're both done.
As far as I recall, the transmission in your car is a very well known/common audi unit. One that is not prone to failure.
However you should easily be able to get a replacement unit from a JY right?
I see about 1500 for a used unit on ebay.
In reply to Mad_Ratel :
Yes the guts are a a ZF 5HP shared with various BMW, VW/Audi, Porsche and even Jag LAnd Rover versions. But the case, details and applications are very different. I need to get one from another 986 Boxster.
As far as reliability, Auto's in general are reliable, but all these are 'fluid for life' from the OEM's and that's not good and mine has apparabntly saken a crap with less than 100k miles on it and I"ve changed (approx 1/3) of the fluid at least twice. I have seen supposed low mileage units for $1,500.
slowbird said:Or do a V8 swap with some other transmission, and race it against AAZCD's when they're both done.
Sure, I slot that right in after my F1 car replica, my retomod Land Rover, my 80's style Euro Rallycross/hot rod and other pie in the sky builds.
More seriously, I have no interest in a V8 Boxster. Not that I'm a purist, but I really really love the howl of the Porsche flat 6. I don't care that it's slower than molasis on a cold day by modern standards, that just means I can hear that beutiful noise for longer before having to lift off.
AngryCorvair said:Tom_Spangler said:You may be looking at the tough choice here, bud.
it's not a tough choice from where i'm sitting. part that berkeleyer out on eBay over the winter, and in the spring you've got a small pile of cash to burn on a car with a proper transmission.
I have floated the idea of selling the Volvo C30 and using the money to buy a really nice (manual) early Boxster with a blown M96 and putting mine in if/when I know it's still good. I really really like these cars and while I'm no longer a manual purist it would be nice. I got this car as what I paid for it at the time was less than the value of the engine alone, I effectivly got a 20k Mile M96 engine with a free Boxster around it. Times, and prices have moved on (and downwards) since then though.
OK, so let's bring this back up to date. I
d started various other threads about things going on with the car. It looks like I came to this one and updated it late last year. Since then I've taken the decision to fix this car, unless someone finds a nice early manual 2.5L Boxster with a blown engine for only a couple of grand for me.
As I say, I'd started other threads, one of which was seeking advice on getting CV Axle bolts out without stripping them. They eventually gave up and submitted to my will, my Jedi mind powers were apparently finally working last week.
Anyway, I've got everything out around the trans now and I think I'm ready to remove the bell housing bolts and trans mounts to actually drop the trans. I say 'I think' as not surprisingly everything on line and in print is centered around manual trans removal and a few things are different.
So, Q for those in the know, AAZCD I'm looking at you here, let's talk about actually pulling the trans. I've pulled countless trans, but I've never ever worked on an auto before. I know nothing about the witchcraft called 'torque convertors' other than I know dropping them can be bad. Do I have to do anything removing the trans. Does it need to be loosened or restrained in anyway? Can I access everything through the bell housing etc?
Adrian, they say that the first time you do it, it can be a little uncomfortable, but after that it gets easier.
I have always dropped the engine and transmission together and then separated them. You don't have to drop the engine, but I'd rather deal with disconnecting the extra hoses than try to do all the work up in the engine compartment.
The torque converter is slid into the transmission, not bolted to it. If you have the engine unbolted from the transmission and the space to do it, you can just slide the transmission back to remove it. The torque converter is bolted to the flexplate which is bolted to the engine like a flywheel. to remove the torque converter, you have to reach a wrench back through the hole where the starter mounts.
With the engine in the car, I don't think there's enough room to remove the transmission without unbolting the torque converter.
Oops... I just got called to go do a random drug test for work. gotta go. More info later.
Ok, now a note about unbolting the transmission from the engine...
The instructions at Pelican are useful for much of it even though they are for a manual transmission. I like to use the checklist portion modified where needed for the difference in mounts, wiring, and plumbing.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/37-TRANS-Drop/37-TRANS-Drop.htm
Mind the dowel pins. I've had them fall out and get lost, or be stuck in and get jammed. You shouldn't need to apply a lot of force taking it apart or putting it together. If the force needed seems excessive, back off and look for the thing you missed.
Consider replacing the transmission mounts while you are in there and the engine mount (up front) if it hasn't already been done.
In reply to AAZCD :
Thanks. Hmm, how much more is there to pull the engine and trans together?
There's lot's of space now the exhaust is gone. I would have thought I could pull the engine back then reach the TC bolts. What is the advantage / disadvantage of leaving the TC attached to the engine? Also, as the trans is fried and squealing like a stuck pig, do I need to flush/clean/replace the TC as the fluid in there will be contaminated.
I've got the Pelican 101 projects. The print version is only slightly more useful than a chocolate tea pot as it's impossible to read. As an example instructions tend to look like this:
The online version is much easier to read. Tip to other future owners. Dont' waste your money on the book.
P.S. is the right angle drive used as there isn't space to get in a ratchet with a triple square bit on it?
how much more is there to pull the engine and trans together?
Hoses: Coolant, fuel, PS, Vac line to brake booster. Stuff: AC compressor - unbolt and set it aside (pull it forward into the car as the engine is lowered) with hoses still connected, Throttle cable, intake tube (unplug the MAF), SAI blower hose and heavy grounding cable from the starter, disconnect the engine compartment blower, big power cable at front center. Mounts: The 4 long studs that hold the engine mount up to the frame. Prolly some other important stuff I'm forgetting, but you can post about that when you find out. I've almost always been pulling both out to do work on the engine rather than the transmission. My favorite way is dropping the rear suspension and shafts all together with it and just swapping the whole shebang between two cars.
Pic From Tom Stone's Spec Boxster build:
I would have thought I could pull the engine back then reach the TC bolts.
The TC bolts can ONLY be accessed through the starter mount (from the engine side).
What is the advantage / disadvantage of leaving the TC attached to the engine?
The advantage is not having to bolt it back on. Disadvantage is that it would be harder to flush, but still doable. I only have a vague YouTube-educated understanding of the magic that makes TCs work, and do nothing with transmissions other than filter and fluid.
OK, I'm going to ask a stand alone more generic TC removal flush Q rather than it get missed in here.
EDIT
stand alone TC question asked here. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/do-you-need-to-flush-a-torque-converter-when-replacing-a-slippingfailed-auto-trans/163356/page1/
Not tempted to swap in a manual Audi transmission sourced from a breakers? Presuming that you chaps have manual transmissions in A4's, Passat's etc over there.
In reply to Dammit :
Looked into that. As with many things yes it's possible, it's just not feasible. If it were 'just' swapping the trans, adding the clutch hydraulics, pedal box and shifter cables then yes, I might. But you also need new dash, two new ECU's and one removed, plus new wiring harness (possibvle plural). In other words to do the swap means disassembling the car to a bare shell then putting it together with different parts. It's simply not feasible. The parts alone would be more than the value of the finished vehicle. The only it makes snese to do that is buy a manual vehicle with a blown engine and swap excellent low mileage engine in. Now, if you can find a nice 97-99 Boxster with a blown engine for less than $3k, then let me know ASAP.
AAZCD, with your exhaustive knowledge of Boxsters, was there a change in auto trans from 97/98 to 99? The reason I ask is that LKQ have a nice low mileage trans for $1,350 but they say it wont fit my 99. Seems BS to me, your opinion?
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