Saw this, had to share it:
Saw this, had to share it:
New bulkhead means I need scoops to feed air to the radiator. 4" tall by 30" wide and ride at a high pressure zone. This should be ample. Need to clean things up some.
Im having trouble accurately seeing what you did. Do you have a pic from a bit farther away?
To tell you the truth, yes, and it's not easier to see what went on. All lexan construction...
I measured 15" off center (total width 30") and cut straight from the leading edge of the hatch back for 16". Lift flap, fashion some lexan sides with bent tabs for mounting and voila. The opening is 4" tall by 30" wide.
Ahhhhh-I get it now. The hatch is off of the car.
Lots of fun to report. I took the car to RACE WARS at New England Dragway. The game was compete in Max Effort, which is combined drag and autocross time.
My fast drag time of the day was a 13.7 @100mph.
While I was there I also got to scale my car, which was 2290 with me in it - so 2,100 lbs with a full tank of gas. I'm happy with that.
That is 183 crank HP going by the MPH, 176 by ET. Trap speed is defiend by power/weight while ET is influenced heavily by start line acceleration.
The fact that the numbers are close suggests that you are launching well. I assume your short times were in the 1.7-1.8 second range. But the HP numbers suggest that either the dyno you used was calibrated happy, or your shift points were less than optimal. (My car makes peak HP around 8500. Quarter mile times/speeds increase up to the point where I shift at 10. Yes this scares the crap outta me. If there is more speed, I don't want to find it that way)
FWIW, mine did 13.7 at 103 on a pair of 680cc injectors, which were kinda running static 
But my car also weighs 2650 with me in it. I figure the extra 400lb is from the Racing Beat exhaust. I put 1000cc injectors in it so I can run richer (cool engine is happy engine) and it still ran 13.67 at 103 but now it does it at 90% duty cycle instead of a reported 128% duty cycle.
13.7 wasn't an all out run, I backed out of it because this thing REALLY needs an alignment. Too sketchy for my tastes. I was shifting early as well because I was staring at the AFR gauge making sure everything was happy rather than the tach. Terrified to lunch this engine.
The car was really hooking up though. I was surprised both times.
Drag racing as a whole, is.... different. The people are different, the atmosphere is different. I felt pretty out of sorts in the lineup. Still had fun.
Another thought - if your ignition timing was tuned on the dyno to work best at not-full throttle, you may be running way too much timing for best power at WOT. N/A rotaries are both awesome and frustrating in that they generally don't detonate, they just run hotter and make less power if you have too much timing. Playing with timing on mine showed essentially no difference between 18 degrees and 22 degrees total, power falls off slightly at 24 but it gets better fuel economy there. Feels like crap at 18 total on the highway.
Yeah I'll need to schedule more time on the dyno. I'm running 24 degrees right now
SLIPS! I'm left lane both times
DaveEstey wrote: Drag racing as a whole, is.... different. The people are different, the atmosphere is different. I felt pretty out of sorts in the lineup. Still had fun.
Oh, I agree. I used to be a drag rat and it can be fun but it's a different kind of fun. Oddly enough I think I lost interest because my attention span is too short anymore, get bored waiting for the next run and then it's over too fast and then it's waiting again. Give me 1-2 minute runs every 5-10 minutes like rallycross.
The point of my babble, which I forgot to add, is that it is amazing the things you can learn from 1/4mi times. I mainly go to the strip anymore for tuning, I call it the 1/4mi dyno because the numbers tell you a lot and it is cheaper than dyno time. And the chili dogs are usually good. But if you want to play it close to the vest, releasing hard numbers like that is counterproductive
You can tell the street racers at the dragstrip... they let off after the 1/8th mile, or after the 1000' mark, because they don't want their car's potential posted on the 1/4mi ET/MPH display board for all to see.
eh, the rest of my hillclimb class has already figured me out haha. I'm the most powerful car in class and, not confirmed, the lightest as well.
I think using 1/4 test and tunes is a really good idea. Full load, moving EVERYTHING and really testing the cooling system. I never saw 200 degrees all day and oil temp stayed locked at 220.
Yeah, they look at me funny in the staging lanes. Everyone else has their hoods up, ice on the intake manifold, pushing their cars to the front of the line until they absolutely must start the engine, and I'm sitting there with the hood shut and engine idling and heat soaking everything because I want to know what things are doing when it's oh-too-hot.
Forgot to note that I installed a new 3/4" rear sway bar before the event. During the autocross I could definitely feel it's effect. Very happy with it. LSD needs a rebuild badly.
after breathing in fumes from the car burning the paint off the transmission tunnel, I've ordered a couple more feet worth of tunnel heat insulation as well as a set of Hawk Blues. Okemo Hill Climb is the second weekend of July!
Knurled wrote: Another thought - if your ignition timing was tuned on the dyno to work best at not-full throttle, you may be running way too much timing for best power at WOT. N/A rotaries are both awesome and frustrating in that they generally don't detonate, they just run hotter and make less power if you have too much timing. Playing with timing on mine showed essentially no difference between 18 degrees and 22 degrees total, power falls off slightly at 24 but it gets better fuel economy there. Feels like crap at 18 total on the highway.
My prior engine made more power hotter, you were there!
DaveEstey wrote: Forgot to note that I installed a new 3/4" rear sway bar before the event. During the autocross I could definitely feel it's effect. Very happy with it. LSD needs a rebuild badly.
yours is the NA right? i can email you part#s I made one of those orders recently :(
Email me parts. I don't want to do a full rebuild, but if I can throw a couple things in to get through the summer until the 8.8 setup goes in I'll be happy.
Looking into drag times more, it seems like my 60' time is garbage, especially considering the fact that I'm running 10" wide slicks...
DaveEstey wrote: Looking into drag times more, it seems like my 60' time is garbage, especially considering the fact that I'm running 10" wide slicks...
Road race slicks are hilariously bad at drag launches.
Yeah, they do everything wrong for drag racing. You want rubber that is gummy like autocross rubber, and sidewalls that are so thin that they wrinkle when you put torque load on it. Gives you a nice looong contact patch.
They're bias plys, so not much for sidewalls, but I didn't change pressures from the autocross settings. Live and learn. At least I know the car is faster haha
I got sick of breathing in fumes from burning paint and the rubber shift boot was being melted. The transmission tunnel is now completely lined with DEI transmission tunnel insulation.
I melted the heel of my right racing shoe -- first pair of Simpson's I had in my old ITC racer. Header collector collected a lot of heat right under the throttle pedal area. Thermal insulation was my friend.
I had the front portion all done, but the racingbeat presilencer was proving to be a cooker.
Got busy last night on a new rear hatch setup with air intake. Should be less draggy than the previous design, as well as being stronger. Making use of the high pressure that forms at the top of the hatch.
Yes, the hatch can still open just like normal. I'll need to make two retainers for the side skirts inside as well as find a neater way of running my fuel cell vent line.
I use these for all my lexan cutting. Mounted upside down in a carpenters vice and I use it like a band saw. Works AWESOME. http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-sheet-metal-shear-92148.html
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