In reply to Mike924 :
this car that I have has been in my family since new and hasn't required anything to major, I just did all the frontend replacement work that needed to be done to it in 2019 when I got the car and I may have had bad luck with some of the parts. but 200k plus out of the car isn't to bad before requiring shocks and tie and ball joints..
I can say that if you are in my area in ontario krown rust proofing your car will make it so it doesn't rust. one of my coworkers has a 90's ranger with zero body rust that he has had sprayed every year and no I am not affiliated.
In reply to bobzilla :
Ok So I am going into the garage tomorrow, I am going to ask for ether 0 degrees or some positive toe out on the front as well as some positive caster. is there a safe number to shoot for ?
on the rear leave the toe and just get the camber to -.9 or some?
SourGrapes: I am in total agreement of Krown Rustproofing. All my daily drivers get that treatment. I am just south of Ottawa BTW
In reply to Mike924 :
I don't get that people don't do this to their vehicles.. I see so many newer cars that have rust problems when all it takes is $120 a year to spray and its warrantied supposedly. I don't know cars are normally the second most expensive purchase most people make and people just seem so cavalier about maintenance. I know money is tight for everyone but skipping oil changes isn't going to save you money down the road or having your car rot out isn't much fun ether.
It's a mindset SourGrapes. Most people see cars as toasters. I don't get it either. When I was younger, in my teens and twenties, I would oil spray my cars every year. It helps in the end. I have my kids Krowning their cars and doing regular maintenance. It only makes sense.
SourGrapes said:
In reply to Mike924 :
I don't get that people don't do this to their vehicles.. I see so many newer cars that have rust problems when all it takes is $120 a year to spray and its warrantied supposedly. I don't know cars are normally the second most expensive most people make and people just seem so cavalier about maintenance. I know money is tight for everyone but skipping oil changes isn't going to save you money down the road or having your car rot out isn't much fun ether.
Because most of us have dealt with Ziebart and their scams for years.
It's nice not having to deal with this stuff living in the south. I spent a good deal of time in michigan for work and i was dumbfounded by the amount of pickups that were straight up rotted in half, just nothing left below the door handles. If a car rusts here its because of design issues
In reply to bobzilla :
I had to google what that was and yes rubberized undercoating is the last thing you want to put on your car to prevent rust
this is a krownrust application, the stuff is kind of like a mixture of wax or grease when its set and it does work. again I am not affiliated any products that are similar work just as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKmM5IByVCQ&t=1s
if you skip through the video it shows them removing lights etc to make sure to spray inside the body for as much coverage as possible. sprays like this work fyi.
also my mechanic told me that if he set the toe any more towards the positive that there would start to be noticeable tire wear and the rear camber is the result of lowering the car he didn't do anything so Ill have to fix that with camber plates.
I am going to put the ez shims in the rear of my car this weekend. is it worth trying to get the rear passenger toe closer to the drivers side? and is -5° camber going to cause problems? because that is basically my only camber option with the shims for my situation.
my car has the pull towards the ditch safety setup and I was wondering if this would help with that.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
AGREED. I imagine they are supposed to be 0.5* Honestly at the 1.1 you have that is sufficient on the rear. Getting the toe closer to 0 will help feel.
Looks like 1.5* of range:
In reply to bobzilla :
I only have the options I can use on the EZ shim and I want to keep the car safe, this car will rotate like crazy at highway speeds with less than half a tank of fuel in the winter, its sketchy . I am just trying to get the camber to within the tolerances on the car, those specs are from the manufactures shop manual.
is there a reason -0.5 in the rear is so bad? thats less than it is and still conservative, I would enjoy more roation but as I said this car rotates like crazy on snow covered roads when there is less than a half a tank of fuel in it.
You said -5°, not -0.5°.
-0.5° camber in the rear is perfectly fine.
-5° is Stance Bro Nation. Don't do that.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Ok so typo on my end, is it worth messing with the toe to get them closer to each other?
I would be worry more about your total toe in the rear. Wish looks like is within specs.
I'd like to get the TOTAL rear toe to 0.14° toe in, and if you can get some more negative camber while you're at it, why not.
Though I would prefer MORE negative camber in the front than in the rear, if you can manage it.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I've had the Rio at -4.5* and it was hilarious.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I am fine with the way the front is setup, I think I am just going to adjust the camber in the rear to -0.5 and leave it at that. is it normal for these cars to have toe out like that?
Toe out front.
Toe in rear.
Negative "Toe In" is toe out.
I may have mentioned previously that I had bought another Accent for my wife. A red, 2dr hatch just like mine. Got it cheap, with a "cranks, but does not start."
Here's what we found:
Intended to do a worn wheel bearing this weekend, but I don't have a bearing splitter. I can buy 1 (one) from Princess Auto or KMS Tools for about $60, or I can buy a set from the same places for about $100, or I can buy the same kit off Amazon for $45.
Kit comes in Thursday.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
is the one on the left getting the turbo and lsd?
did you install driving lights?
my car turned out ok, I am not getting much rear rotation, I can induce it on gravel but the car still wants to push at the extreme ends. honestly I am glad it didn't induce to much rotation as in the winter as I said this car gets very sketchy if you don't keep the tank full.
I will say it will hold a line well now and I'd like to find a huge parking lot to try and see how many lateral g's its pulling now because its crazy compared to what it was a 6 months ago.
Thanks for the help people and if its ok Skinny I will pop in every once in awhile
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
watch what you buy on the budget end from amazon for automotive tools I've had to return a few tools that someone had obviously abused then returned like the below press I bought had all the larger rods bent and the base of the bearing was cracked so I had to buy new rods from a fastener store to even be able to use the thing. needless to say i returned it and complained.
https://www.amazon.ca/OKSTENCK-Universal-Bearing-Removal-Bearings/dp/B0B1HTX8VR/ref=sr_1_3?
