In reply to SourGrapes :
The 5door longer SX Rio had more weight over the ass end and got a ~112lb-in/2.0kg/mm rear spring (from the 107/1.9 for the Accent SE). Not enough of a difference to bother. Front spring was the same 2.1/117 because same weight up front. Aftermarket are all the same part for both cars, but no idea what rates they actually used.
regardless, at 1117/106(or 112) its uber soft and not worth the effort.
In reply to bobzilla :
hey dude. this is some of my research into the springs on these cars, I had way more spring rate data and lost it. I did a format of my OS drive and forgot to move my pictures and files folders to another drive. I tried to use a data recovery program but because I use an SSD for my all my drives, I couldn't get any data back that was useful.
the only people I don't think I contacted was Hyundai, you could try to see if their replacement springs are the same stiffness as the original SE springs or if they are softer to accommodate the other models as they all use similar springs now. I am not sure used springs from a 2010 accent SE are going to be stiffer than the lesjofors springs that are brand new. I Do know that brand new springs from hyundai or kia are going to cost a lot.
I am not sold on the SE having stiffer springs from the factory tbh, massive sway bars and slightly stiffer shocks would make the car handle a lot different than the base car.
I also stopped researching at lesjofors and just bought H&R springs.
I originally wanted eibach springs and spent a week or so emailing and calling around off and on trying to see if anyone had some in a parts warehouse or something. yah no love on that.
All the springs like Skinnyg's are all the same spring rate, I forget what that is to. personally, ID get lesjofors or the Ebay lowering springs or H&R's..
lesjofors par numbers and spring rates
Part # 4037232
25 N/mm to pound/inch = 142.75368 pound/inch
part # 4237231
20 N/mm to pound/inch = 114.20294 pound/inch
Edit
I forgot to say that the lesjofors springs are stock length just a bit stiffer and that's what I wanted, I wish they had an HD option that was stiffer again at the stock height.
these are the GLS model spring rates, I am sure they are the same as the SE
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/spring-rate-of-oem-springs.123541/
The conclusion is that the front spring rate is 2.1 kg/mm and the rear spring rate is 1.9 kg/mm. If I did my conversions right, then in English units that would be ~117.3 lb/in and ~106.17 lb/in. Now we have a more objective reference point to compare suspension upgrades.
this is the contact info for moog tech ASE master certified people and engineers, I contacted them and went no further, I have the email with them telling me the 800 number but nothing after that. I Am sure I Spent he 5 minutes to ring them up but i am drawing a blank on what they said to me.
1-800-325-8886 (press 1 and then 2 for Moog). M-F 7:30-4:30 CST.
people could try hyundai if they want
@Sourgrapes, you've really deep dived into this stuff. You could probably do quite a thread on your build.
In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :
lol, I am not sure I want to own a thread of my own on this car. most of the research I Did originally on this car was to try and save some money and just do junk yard type upgrades and to dick around but those cheap upgrades didn't seem to pan out. the emails to manufactures take like 30s as well as phone calls, I am kinda bored and have way to much time on my hands.
the forum searches again the hyundai forum has tons of info and those searches took a few mins each if you know what you are looking for.
edit
I am also sure skinnys car would out preform my car by a large margin. I just wanted to rebuild my steering and suspension and do some mild handling mods. My front end was really loose and causing tire cupping so I am sure my over compensation of front end parts is going to counteract the tinny ultraracing rear bar.
In reply to SourGrapes :
The problem is the lack of information found on the Kia side. Fun fact, if the part is the same for hyundai and Kia, the part number will usually be the same. Being the same company they share a lot of parts because its cost effective. I have looked for the source of the Kia spring info and cannot find it again. My googlefu is usually pretty strong but theres a lot of info that I had access to 5 years ago I can no longer find. I remember thinking about running SX hatch springs on the wife sedan but wasn't going to buy new and finding used SX cars in the yard were impossible. LX/EX all day long but SX were rare.
In reply to bobzilla :
I really doubt that any company has a huge amount of different springs for the same econobox chassis and I kind of went with hyundai as none of the kia's had a 24mm front sway bar with a larger factory rear bar. The kias forums don't seem to have any people modding their cars so there isn't alot of info there, Ive found the hyundai forums to be a better source of info.
the super low spring rate is what made me just go with a lowering spring. like would a 25 lb-in increase in spring rate from lesjofors be that noticeable? once I saw how soft the springs actually were I was like well a %20 increase of nothing is still nothing lol.
I went through all the aftermarket parts manufactures because I wanted to maintain ride height and possibly get a slightly more responsive ride, I live in the snowbelt/rustbelt and wanted to not miss work days. Its not so bad here there are only about 4-5 days here that you could miss work because of snow as long as you live in town if you don't live in town then thats more like 10-20 days.
In reply to SourGrapes :
I've daily'd lowered cars in the saltbelt for 20 years. Lived rural (until about 2 years ago when everything moved in around us). We get drifts that 6" of snow will be 3' tall drifts. 12" of snow and the drifts are as tall as I am and about 40' deep. They have to bring in the V-plow to get our road open. A moderate lowering spring doesn't affect you snow ability enough with one of these cars to make a difference.
In reply to bobzilla :
yah I didn't even come close to missing work with the stock car last winter, where I used to live I would have missed a week or more work with a car tho as they never plow the road. I did have a strange problem tho,I flushed my heater core and changed my thermostat because the car was not blowing hot air and then it blew so hot of ait that it would melt your skin. BUT the colder it got out the less hot air it blew and when it was blew -30c the thing would only blow hot air if the car was moving. so I am thinking blender?
can I ask what your thoughts are on plastidip or hand bombing some wheels? the finish on these wheels is gone and its all brake dust so once thats off I am going to want to do something and by something that is the cheapest thign possible. lol
found this incase anyone wants to really dive into a rio or accent , cams, standalone ECU's, gear ratio sets, coil overs, headers, etc, etc. the link below is for a accent if that doesn't your you will have to search for yourself
I forgot to add you can get these B4 shocks from Bilstien and there are springs from them for the rear but I never contacted them. does anyone know if you can get bilstien to revalve b4 shocks?
https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/products/19-169965
In reply to SourGrapes :
they have quite a few more options for LC parts than I've seen in a long while. I wonder if the LC was more popular/still on the road in Australia than here?
In reply to bobzilla :
I was brought to that site via Google, strange it went to the LC cars, I saw the LC thing and didn't even think of it. I Apologize, duh the JB rio is the MC accent, kinda feel retarded now. I was kinda wishing the gear ratio swaps were cheaper as lowering my rpm at 100kph would be nice if the swap was remotely easy to do and didn't cost $1500
that clucth kit is all thats available for our cars from them, I think..
https://shop.rpw.com.au/product/clutch-kit-heavy-duty-s-sc/
to have that amount of LC parts they must have had a race series in australia for those cars
In reply to bobzilla :
people used to swap the engines in those cars and turbo them
https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/forum/diy-46/accent-lc-beta-swap-diy-13291/
there use to be a forum devoted to doing beta swaps and turboing the kia varient of the LC , that forum is gone now ..
fyi thats a 145hp NA engine in that tiny rio or like a 200-300hp engine
https://www.newtiburon.com/threads/boosting-my-beta-2.482384/
https://www.hyundaiperformance.com/threads/2-0l-beta-how-much-is-too-much.23156/
In reply to SourGrapes :
Yeah... I know. I've been in this scene since 2002. I have probably forgotten more about betas than anyone should ever know to start with. The swap into the LC was really simple and the SOHC alpha could take a ton of boost.
the beta was actually rated at 140hp back in 2001-2004 and then de-rated due to a "calculating error" to 135-138 depending on year. Due to the engine design to meet emissions requirements there was very little improvement in that engine with na bolt-ons. Cam overlap was silly to retain exhaust gases similar to what an egr system would do but without the egr system to fail. Made for torquey midrange engines that responded to boost really well.
In reply to bobzilla :
That LC car with 150hp alone would be fun let alone 200hp, those must have been fun times for anyone rocking one of those. I wish THIS car had 150hp and I really wish the thing was geared taller so it got better milage at highway speeds
You need a "blue" transmission, then, I think.
Personally I love not having to shift into 4th to pull hills on the highway. Weird, however, staying in 3rd to turn corners in town.
In reply to SourGrapes :
The bad part of it was the transmissions. Even the beta trans was pretty fragile at times. The Alpha trans second gear hated fast and hard shifts and liked to exit the building.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Correct, the Blue trans was taller geared. It actually worked against it for highway speeds/hills. Where as the standard put the engine in the power band, the Blue was just below always and either lugged hard or you downshifted.
In reply to SourGrapes :
I've spent the day going through this. Awesome build for the Accent. I am looking at one for my daughter as a first car. From what i have seen they all seem to rust here in Ontario around the rear fender/bumper mount.
I have been to Calabogie, very fun and challengine track. I have not been for a year or two due to outside interferance (LOL).
Keep up this great thread.
Mike
In reply to bobzilla :
hey dude, I just would like this car to rev like 500-1000rpm slower for commuting cuse the 4 lane highways kill the mpg on this car.
SO, SO, SO I got my car back from the alignment shop and the head mechanic somehow set all my wheels as in all 4 at -1.2 degress camber..
and my new well remaned newrack is, I don't know.. the stock rio doesn't have a %20-%25 center deadzone right? I am sure mine didn't have that. :(
In reply to Mike924 :
The cars are ok, make sure they have been undercoated, mine is from 2008 and has no body rust due to that and I live in the rust belt. if you are getting her a newer Hyundai or Kia, make sure its not on the list of cars that had engine problems,I looked into that when my mother got her new car in 2021 and the rio wasn't on the list of cars that have engine problems.
In reply to SourGrapes :
Taller tires for commuting will help that trememdously. Wife's auto 08 Rio sedan would still get 35mpg at her cruising speed .... which is way too damn fast. Usually 75-85mph but I ran 195/70R14's to get some extra gearing to help.
Dead spot in the handling is almost always alignment related. Unless he installed shims, I'd say your mechanic didn't do it right. Rear factory should be about -.7 to .9 max. I would manually check toe and check caster. Caster will give you back feel lost elsewhere.
In reply to SourGrapes :
My daughter just needs reliable and cheap to fix. These meet those requirements.
I will say that my daily (2019 Elantra GT N_Line) has been great. 1 set of brakes so far in my ownership. It handles well (Roundabouts at 60kph, On and offramps at 100 to 110kph) and it hasn't put a foot wrong so far.
In reply to bobzilla :
I Was kind of hoping it wasn't the rack.. and somewhat assumed it was the alignment. I think he shimmed the rear, I am not even sure how to approach this as he did me a favor and they didn't charge me much. I can post a picture of the alignment printout sheet when I get home.
I Think I have 195 /60 or 65 r 14s on it currently
In reply to bobzilla :
these are the alignment specs
Toe in is not helping you and that is such a small amount of caster. I'm running 6.5/6.6 on the UB Rio with plates. Get that toe in to toe out and that will help, but for feel you really need caster.
In reply to bobzilla :
ok ill have to go talk to him. Do I need to get the rear camber less than the front or can i leave it? I think he said he couldn't adjust the toe or something or that was max? I don't know I told him positive toe but he went negative? anyway, I ll take the car in once I have the steering shaft installed and hopefully everything will be golden.
I was just going to max the camber to like -.9 and have the front at -1.2 and a slight bit of toe or even 0.
how much caster can you get with stock shims or whatever?
also the steering deadspot was the steering shaft having play, I just ordered a new one for $350 :( money pit lol
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