Bent-Valve said:How does the epoxy hold up to the heat in that spot?
Well, we gonna find out pretty soon, yeah?
Bent-Valve said:How does the epoxy hold up to the heat in that spot?
Well, we gonna find out pretty soon, yeah?
No pictures.
Side seal springs, which I have never replaced on any engine ever, were FUBAR. Installed new springs and the side seals sit right on up there instead of barely poking up out of the rotors. Well, okay then. Add that to the list of things I learned the hard way.
Rotor housings are warped all to heck. Oh well, it's not like I can buy new ones.
The center housing is also FUBAR. Stepwear is almost as far out of spec as the end housings. Well, crap. I'm going to throw a quickie street port on my other GSL-SE center housing and we'll call it done.
No more brap, guys. No more brap.
Second gear is 2.1-ish. 2.1 times 4.78 is 10.038
.
10.038 divided by 3.6-ish 1st gear is 2.77 repeating.
I now have a set of 2.75:1 gears for the 9".
This sounds incredibly dumb, and it is, but I can't put power down in 1st anyway so why bother? And I can't shift to 3rd because whatever is supposed to happen in the RX-7 shifter box usually has the lever finding the spot between 1 and 3, or 3 and 5. 1-2 is a much easier shift.
Incidentally, 2.75 times 2.46 is 6.765. So, if I were to do a theoretical engine swap with an automatic, it would be able to rev to 6700 to have the same wheelspeed as I had been getting in 2nd gear at 10k.
Mainly I am sick of drivetrain problems and want to slow the driveshaft down. Not sure how much this is going to hurt handling other than "a lot".
Partway through porting my slightly-less-borked intermediate, I noticed the HORRIFIC casting shift.
Stock port window. It's tiny!
Huge rust pit right in the corner seal track. It's this or nothing.
Note: Port opening is 10mm from rotor housing surface.
Oops.
Port is starting to take shape. I like these tiny port openings because I can shape the window the way I see fit. I raise the outside of the closing line a lot while leaving the inside stock. Why?
Very rusty 12A rotor demonstrates the internal volume of the intake stroke when it is at its point of most rapid volume expansion, per Paul Yaw. I want the port to be aimed more or less at the center of the volume so that the rotor can really get the intake port MOVING.
The first engine I ported like this made good power to 8500 despite having a stock carb, and it would pull clean and strong from 1000rpm in 5th.
This was not contributing to good compression. Rotorhousings are both 3.148"..
I visited the batcave tonight, and now i know what an apex seal is
In reply to Patrick :
You know what piston rings are? Same thing, but 100% less round. And therefore they need springs.
Honestly, in my experience the apex seals are just fine, it's the side seals and side housings that cause all the problems. The apex seals just calmly do their job. The biggest problem I have with them is the springs digging into them, resulting in less good low RPM sealing. (At higher RPM and load, gas pressure takes over from the spring tension. A lot like piston rings, actually...)
On the other hand, I don't play with turbos. Because with a turbo, if 5psi is good then 7psi is better. And 9psi is better than that. And 11psi is better than that. And we're outside the turbo's efficiency curve but screaming it up to 15 ekes a liiiittle bit more, and oops we just detonated and FODed the engine.
Funny how people with stock turbos have problems at 300hp but people with large-hotside aftermarket turbos (and a better tune than "stock mega-rich-to-save-the-cat tune minus a fuel cut defender faking the MAP sensor to read low") make 500-600hp no problem.
Do you use a template (yours or bought) to make sure each port is as close to identical as possible?
Have these irons been ground or surfaced and what is the limit of grinding? (like blanchard ground really flat...)
I ask because I figure when I get to tear down that renesis I have its going to need some serious lovin...
Just looking at the 6 port iron port job for the f/r irons makes my hand tired. I would have gone with a 4port just to save me the time but you are doing always all sorts of wild things. You gonna run 18 gauge wire for coolant seals on this again? why don't you move to the s4/s5 13b if you cant find any of the old style rotor housings anyways?
fidelity101 said:Just looking at the 6 port iron port job for the f/r irons makes my hand tired. I would have gone with a 4port just to save me the time but you are doing always all sorts of wild things. You gonna run 18 gauge wire for coolant seals on this again? why don't you move to the s4/s5 13b if you cant find any of the old style rotor housings anyways?
I have been running Viton inners and neoprene outers since 2011-ish. (Cick the link if you like videos of people working and/or Rob Zombie) Electrical wire is fine as long as you don't start the engine if it is below 40F or so, if you do that then it burns the insulation and it huffs coolant.
The porting really did not take all that long to do for the end housings. Most of that really was going back into the house to top off my glass of Polish little water (it may have been Russian. Russkiy Standart is pretty E36 M3 and I'm thankful that Evan's friend finished off the bottle for me. If you want something done right get a Pole to do it!) and do a LOT of hemming and hawing because of the FUD factor. In all honesty, if you have good carbides, iron cuts like butter.
I do have one (1) complete set of S4 housings, not counting the complete engine in my '81. My plan is, if this engine works out okay, I'm going to duplicate it with the S4 parts, RX-8 rotating bits, and use a side draft style throttle body on it with that Atkins manifold that I have. Then this engine will get bridge ported (because MORE!) and it will be the engine that goes in the RX-3. If the engine sucks, then the S4 stuff gets peripheral ported and that goes in the RX-3 and the RX-7 gets a Buick 3800, or it gets scrapped, or something, haven't decided yet. The chassis is well-worn and cracking in many places. Jacking it up at one corner is fun because the spot welds are all so "loose" that the doors won't open or close. The odometer is showing about 250k, over 100k of this was with me, and I rallycrossed it with temp tags on it when I first got it on the road in 2008 (2007?) with the worn-out 12A and the silver car's carb and intake manifold..
Bent-Valve said:Do you use a template (yours or bought) to make sure each port is as close to identical as possible?
Have these irons been ground or surfaced and what is the limit of grinding? (like blanchard ground really flat...)
I ask because I figure when I get to tear down that renesis I have its going to need some serious lovin...
I have never really used a template. That costs money. I have used a degree wheel to define what port timing I wanted, and when bridge porting I will scribe a line from the port opening-line to make sure that the bridge is not less than 5mm wide, but that is pretty much it.
Never had any side housings machined. That costs a lot of money. There's a place in Michigan that will grind, lap, and reharden for about $700 with shipping. It's not bad for the service you get, do not get me wrong, but I'm the kind of person who spends fifteen minutes weighing the pros and cons of buying carb cleaner vs. brake cleaner on a ounces per dollar versus cleaning ability kind of floating-point ratio. $700 on anything is right out. I think I spend that much on tires once.
If the wear isn't bad enough to warrant having the side housings machined and rehardened, then it's not worth worrying about. The spec for maximum wear coincides with roughly how deep the hardening is. If you're not through the hardening, then lapping won't do much for you. If you ARE through the hardening, then, well, pizdec...
Gotcha, I wasn't thinking about the hardening, my machine tools use iron on iron because iron has a kind of lube property to it. I think that flavored my thinking.
If I didn't use a template I was going to go the old school paper and pencil rub to try and get mine close to identical.
Berk it, time to go nuclear.
uhhhhhhhh
In reply to EvanB :
Okay, that is a shot of stuff I am working on at, uh.... work. And my left hand is still berked up from trying to install the two rear lid bolts even though I had the subframe (and therefore engine) wedged down even further than the rather nice instruction sheet suggested was necessary.
I guess it's because I just have huge hands. And you know what THAT means!
...Potential nerve damage from trying to wedge one of said hands between the firewall and supercharger and feeling/hearing a loud "POP!!" in the priocess.
In other news, I am still wondering if sticking tacky caliper covers on a Z51 is either proof that ricers exist in all economic spectra, or if it is simply a subtle case of trolling.
Knurled. said:In reply to EvanB
I guess it's because I just have huge hands. And you know what THAT means!
You wear big gloves?
wvumtnbkr said:Knurled. said:In reply to EvanB
I guess it's because I just have huge hands. And you know what THAT means!
You wear big gloves?
And I cannot lie.
Somewhere, someone is crying.
Knurled. said:
Berk it, time to go nuclear.
I noticed this pic contains a supercharger, a red bull, and a rockauto magnet. I love it and im not sure why. But it speaks to me.
In reply to gearheadmb :
You missed the LS3 in the top right.
In reply to Stampie :
And that the bag label says "BLK 2300 LS3 VETTE HEARTBEAT"
In other words, a black TVS2300 Heartbeat supercharger for an LS3 'Vette.
I am very happy with Magnuson products. The kit installs go with a minimum of BS because they are engineered practically as good as OEM.
Stampie said:In reply to gearheadmb :
You missed the LS3 in the top right.
No i saw it. But it was the collection of things on the table that made me giggle.
In reply to gearheadmb :
The Rock Auto magnet is something actually related to my own crap: I ordered a blower motor power stage and an oil filter for teh S60R from them. Got a genuine Behr power stage (think blower resistor, but networked) for far less money than I could get ANY half-assed reproduction from any of our suppliers. Although knowing a little about how the third-party suppliers often work, they were probably buying in bulk from Behr and then putting it in their own packaging with a little markup.
Today: Forgot my torque wrench at work. Was clued in that Husky torque wrenches are accurate, may buy one tomorrow. Along with a better heater than the craptacular hand de-freezer that I have now.
Bought a second propane garage heater, the "big" one from Summit. Seems like I was just here...
As of 5:30pm. Stomach was empty and bladder was full so I went home.
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