Well Big Red got his name tag today.
So some updates on Red.
I recently had an issue with the rear brakes (had a post in Grassroots) and found out the hard way that GM requires you to Loctite all the bolts pertaining to the calipers. I lost two caliper bolts and a caliper bracket bolt all within a half hour.
Both wheels where grooved into by the calipers, but not much material was removed. The truck drives fine at 75 mph.
After that it was a smooth ride, but my last run down to Lousiana proved to be the most problematic. My truck dropped into limp mode both loaded and unloaded. Still rolling coal and no AC.
So finally I broke down and took the truck to the dealer and got the ECM reflashed. Now the truck isn't rolling coal, but the AC still isn't working. That was yesterday and I called the place that several people have recommended to me for AC service and they said that their AC machine was down and someone was coming today to repair it. I called again today about bringing my truck in tomorrow morning, but they can't get me in until the afternoon and I have to leave tomorrow to pick up a trailer to take to Texas. We'll see how I fare in the upper 90s heat that they are talking about. I'll just get my truck in next week to service the AC.
My other issue at the moment is I replaced the Fuel Filter and the water sensor, and now my truck keeps saying that there is water in the fuel and there isn't. Tested the sensor and it works fine. Oh well.
AC IS WORKING!!! WOOOOO!
So back in April, I replaced the HVAC controls because they were wore out and the LCD screen was acting up. I replaced it with a used unit out of a 2010 Silverado and it seemed to be fine, except the AC still didn't work.
Took it to a local shop and they found out that the HVAC controls have their own module that talks to the BCM which talks to the ECM. The control's module was not programed for the truck, so it had to be reflashed. The shop reflashed it and it's blowing out ice cold air.
I couldn't be happier.
Man it's been since July and I've got some updates.
First off, I needed to extend my trips to the fuel pumps and I decided to get an auxiliary fuel tank. Problem was that there is A LOT of misinformation out there on what is DOT complaint.
While there are some fancy looking aluminum diamond plate tanks, I wanted steel. Steel takes to tank expansion better than aluminum does and I have a couple friends that have bitched about theirs cracking and losing fuel.
I needed a tank that had a drain on the lower corner and that proved to be difficult, especially with the 100 gallon capacity I was looking for. It's good to have friends in the right places and I was told about Atwood's Home and Ranch in Oklahoma (think Tractor Supply) had the tank I was looking for. Cost me about $360 dollars (about $900 for an aluminum tank).
Now I needed to cover up some down-to-metal scratches so I bought a can of implement paint and went to town.
Next step was to rip out the bed liner. I don't care for plastic ones to begin with and I know this truck had a spray in one, so out it came!
Oh look there, a fully covered bed.
Wait, why was there a plastic bed liner if there was already a spray-in liner?
Oh
After that, I needed to get the gooseneck ball out of the receiver. It's a removable unit, but it was seized in there from not being taken out in quite a while. It took a lot of PB Blaster and beating on it from both sides. Once it was out, I slopped on some Anti-Seize and flipped it back over.
Now I can start the installation process. I go ahead and make my filler neck inlet. I bought some 2" galvanized pipe, a T, a couple reducers and a 3/8" nipple.
I was planning on cutting the hose, but someone beat me to it and we found this:
That's right, that's a piece of exhaust pipe. This confirmed that this truck had a flat bed on it at some point and the hose had been cut shorter for the flat bed.
Well anyways, I got the T fitted. It didn't have the ideal fitment, but I doubled up the hose clamps to make sure there were no leaks.
Next was installing the pump. I went with a 70 gph unit from NAPA. Cost about $80, but it can be out in the weather. I decided to mount it to the inside of the bed on the drivers side. I bought about 6' of 3/8" dia hose. Drilled a hole above the T and ran the hose down.
Next I wanted to wire in the switch for the pump. The dashboard of these trucks do not leave many places for a switch installation, but found a decent place for it.
Next was the final tank installation. We put it in place and drilled the holes. We had some trial and error with the bolt lengths, but we got it in.
This was the final setup for the pump and hoses. I took a larger hose and wrapped it around the hose, then zip tied it so the bed won't rub the fuel hose. The big hole the wire is going through was the first hole I drilled for the fuel hose until I realized that it was directly above the filler neck.
Now that I've had it in there the last few months, I can go about 1200 miles loaded and 2300 miles unloaded before I have to fill up again. It costs anywhere between $280 and $340 to fill it all up from empty.
So last night I installed new fog lights. The truck didn't have them since I bought it and I found set on Amazon for $26 for the pair and free shipping, they even came with the bulbs. After being in the mountains of Oregon and Washington and the amount of fog I dealt with, I figured it was time to put them back in.
I also installed new front shocks last night. Being a Texas truck, the rubber had become dust and the one on the driver side was clacking every time I'd hit a bump. The originals were in there (not bad for 290k) and replaced them with a set of Monroes. Big Red now has a little blue.
petegossett wrote: In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid: 290k on the original shocks?
As far as I can tell, yes. When I get home, I'll take some pictures of them, maybe someone knows better than I. The bushings on the right front shock was comical.
Nice, I missed the auxiliary fuel tank update. Looks like the install went smooth enough. Hopefully the new shocks and new fogs make a big difference.
So these were what I believe were the original shocks. The one is missing the bushing was the one that disintegrated. Plus the upper piston rod shield is made out of plastic, which I've never seen before, but it sounds like some crap the factory would do. I also found it weird that the lower bushing on the top of the shock, was molded into a metal sleeve that went around the threads, another thing I haven't seen before.
So this is Hitch Containment 2.0.
I saw this Sterilite container at a Walmart one time recently and it was only $20, I had never seen it again. I happened to stop at a Walmart outside of Colorado Springs to buy a new headlight and I am walking past the container isle and see the container. It's Sterilites "Tuff" line and it's much thicker plastic, plus it has wheels and a handle, so it makes it easier to move when I need it out of the bed. It also has four slots for locks which was perfect. This one is also 5 more gallons than the last one, so it's a little longer.
The only thing I don't know, is if it's UV resistant. The other container was deteriorating and then in the 13 degree air in Colorado Springs decided to shatter.
I still want an in-bed toolbox, but can't find one I want for a reasonable price. This will suffice for now.
The four locks seem like they would do more harm than good. If someone wanted the contents, they could just take the tote. The locks kind of highlight that something in there might be worth stealing.
Edit: page 2 seems like you already thought of that. Scratch my thought entirely :)
So Big Red needed new tires. I had a little bit of a conundrum. Winter has started and it has already snowed. My worn down Firestone Transforce HTs were not happy.
I was originally only had a budget for about $150 a tire. My buddy was able to get a set of Hankook Dynapro HTs for exactly that and that's what I was planning on going with, but then her told me that he could get a set of Laufenn (Hankook's sub-brand) X-Fit ATs for about $12 cheaper each.
I decided to go with the Laufenn because they have about a 50k treadwear and a good tread pattern to get me through the winter. I'll probably burn them up by March or April, and then I can get another set of tires. Tread pattern is a huge deal for me. For a truck like mine, I want to make sure that there are sufficient water channels, which a lot of AT tires do not usually have. These are far sufficient.
I spent 12 hours in a 2013 Chevy 1500 4x4 with a 5x8 u-haul on the back of it today. I hope your truck is more comfortable than that, if not you have my respect.
In reply to Chadeux:
My truck is a 2500HD. It should have a much harsher ride than a 1500. However, I spend 95% of my time on the highway, so I don't really experience the harshness that I would, like on a gravel road.
My seats are pretty comfortable, but I'd say after a few hours, my ass starts to hurt, but that's usually my que to get out of the truck for a bit. I'm looking at getting a seat cushion, because my drivers seat is rather well worn in.
In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:
This 1500 apparently does have that "HD Suspension; Firm Ride" package on it, and it's the shortest wheelbase crew cab. I feel like it's probably the exact same seats in it. My logic also assumes that the 2500HD should be sprung way stiffer, but it's also the longest wheelbase and has bigger tires on it. Either way, this must be why suspension seats and air suspended cabs are a thing on the big trucks.
I'm enjoying watching your travels I hope the money making end of the business is starting to go well for you.
In reply to Chadeux:
Once you get spoiled by cushions of air it's had to go back.
Chadeux wrote: In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid: This 1500 apparently does have that "HD Suspension; Firm Ride" package on it, and it's the shortest wheelbase crew cab. I feel like it's probably the exact same seats in it. My logic also assumes that the 2500HD should be sprung way stiffer, but it's also the longest wheelbase and has bigger tires on it. Either way, this must be why suspension seats and air suspended cabs are a thing on the big trucks.
The other problem I noticed on these newer half ton trucks is the lack of tire. There putting 20's (or larger ) on these trucks and not giving them any sidewall to help cushion the ride. I'm glad I have 70 series tires on my truck, I think the ride would be unbearable if it were less than that. It's bad enough having 10-ply tires. I imagine the overall length of my vehicle also helps with the road shock.
I bet that 1500 HD suspension is great when pulling something heavy, but it's gotta suck the rest of the time.
In reply to Wall-e:
It's getting there. There is enough profit to get the bills paid and a little extra, but I'm changing how I do things going into the new year.
Likewise, if you ever deliver to one of the big NH camper sales places, I'm anywhere from 2-30min from 4 BIG RV sales locations. You'd be more than welcome to stay over if you want a good meal and a bed to sleep in.
In reply to golfduke:
Well thanks for that. We have two Camping World locations in NH. I try not to go to New England because it costs an asinine amount of money to pull a trailer out there. Last time I went to Syracuse, NY it was $100 round trip. I would hate to see how much more it would be to go that much farther. I am referring to the tolls.
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