The GoodGuys autocross was a bit disappointing. A short suuuper tight course led to alot of understeer, and low speeds. I ran out of time before the event to add more front camber, so I went with my street alignment. After a couple of runs I started doing my best to reduce rear grip to make the car turn in. Bumping up the swaybar position in the rear, stiffening the rear shocks, and running plenty of pressure in the rear tires did make the course manageable. I'm not going to use this event to learn anything about the car other than that it does have useful adjustments that can be made at the track. The brake pedal is still long, and takes plenty of pressure on the pedal to get maximum braking force. Here is one of the only photos I can find from the event:
Well after typing out the last 2 posts, it seems a bit obvious that I should try a larger master cylinder. Unfortunately, I just bought this 7/8" master, but I guess it was worth it to rule out a faulty cylinder. While I don't love the amount of pedal travel needed for the fresh air vent to open in the booster, and the feel of the pedal at most braking levels, I am not sure I want to spend $ trying a different booster yet. First on the menu will be firewall bracing, but a larger master will be on the short list.
Don't get discouraged. You're on the right track, and you'll get it dialed.
Thanks Scott, much appreciated. On another note, I've noticed a noise from the passenger rear recently. After investigation, the adjustable sway bar has been hitting the rear subframe:
I wonder if miatas suffer the same issue, or if I have my control arm tabs welded on slightly closer together than on a miata (causing a vertically taller link). Let's see if removing a bit of length will do the trick. If not I'll be shortening the links or repositioning the tabs.
The shaft collars on the bar were also contacting the subframe, so they were shaved a bit as well.
