In reply to threecyl :
Good point, torque and all that.
In reply to threecyl :
Good point, torque and all that.
In reply to MrChaos :
They aren't cheap anymore. LOL and the adapters are like $2k. (I look for these often as I have use for them.)
There's also the option for a quicktime steel bell housing that let's you run GM 4 speeds. They're about $800. I'm pretty sure all you need is parts bin shopping to make it work.
In reply to Crackers :
Nissan trans are still cheap. I see a few under $700 locally to me and the adapter plates are around $500. If I blew up this W58 that's probably the route I'll go.
Right now I'm sorta stuck on what to do next. I may start on the cab to procrastinate my engine decisions. I can't do any wiring or finish the brake system without the cab installed. Slippery slope though - I don't want the cab project to turn into full bodywork mode (inside and out). I think I can patch the lower corners and clean up the underside and undercoat it so I can plop it onto the frame, possibly permanently. I could deal with the bodywork later and eventually paint it in-situ on the frame.
Also, extremely minor update but it's progress I suppose. Bypassed the funky OEM oil filter housing with a direct spin-on. The stock housing would drip all over the engine mount during an oil change and I like the simplified look.
threecyl said:The W box will be fine with those tyres
Concur, but stickies are a different sort of problem.
I decided to put the body on the frame before touching the engine again. I'm leaning towards the full stupid engine build option, and I think seeing it as a complete car again will motivate me. I want to install the cab only once, which means any bodywork that will be hard to access from below needs to be done now. The plan is brush all the rust off, perform all tinwork within a few inches of the lowest point, prime, and undercoat. I ordered some epoxy primer and spray-can rubberized undercoating from Eastwood, which have favorable reviews working together. If the floor needs any modifications later, I'm hoping some drilled holes and brackets will cover that.
Assume service position! My back will thank me later.
This old-school 19ga steel is VERY forgiving! And the view from the inside.
Full stupid engine build is the only correct conclusion, i'm proud of you
In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :
I've been watching this thread on and off for a while and it is totally awesome. I have to chime in on itbs and megasquirt though. I've got an s54 running NA in my e36 with a throttle cable on ms3 and I hate it. Throttle tip in is horrible and driveability is not great. I'm running ITB mode which is the blended speed density/alpha n mode and it doesn't seem to work well on this engine and throttle combo without the electronic throttle control. As mentioned by lateline, throttle is controlled in large part by the idle valve and air rail. From what I've read in BMW's technical documentation, up to 20% throttle is controlled only by the idle valve with the stock ecu. Since mega squirt has no provision for electronic throttle, much less support for using the idle valve to control throttle, I don't recommend going that route. As much as I would love to see a tri turbo itb straight six in this monster, I don't think that's the right way to do it. That being said, I kind of want you to prove me wrong and do it anyway because that would be awesome. Can't wait to see it finished either way.
In reply to nbenson :
Thanks for the insight! Glad to hear from someone who has used blended mode. What are you planning to do to remedy yours?
I've been distracting myself from the engine with bodywork, something where over-confidence only punishes you with more labor. Which I'm okay with. I got the last 4 of the 6 main patches welded in and ground down.
I got this sheetmetal storage shelf for free by someone's curb. Most of it is my Datsun's fenders, but this last piece came in handy.
This is Eastwood's epoxy primer. Internet reviews say it works well underneath the rubberized undercoating I also bought. I'll spray that on next time, which should conclude my adventures in hot rod cab trapeze and acrobatics.
Good news is the primer is very tough to wipe or brush away. Bad news is I forgot a bracket for the parking brake cables.
Are you planning to seam seal everything before undercoating?
Fantastic!
I'm seeing primer creeping up the cab. Does this mean paint someday? I had always assumed just rust -rat rod and all, but your level of fit and finish is way too high for that to be completely accurate.
Interior will likely get seam sealer. On the undercarriage I just sprayed real heavy in the corners and will undercoat them similarly heavy.
Yes it will have actual real paint one day. But probably after it's driving. I just don't want to deal with the undercarriage ever again, so here we are.
I'd really want some seam sealer between the inch box and the sheet if I were you. It will be impossible to avoid it rusting out otherwise.
In reply to Crackers :
Yeah I already kinda blew it because back when I built the floor I didn't know about weld-through primer. So I used the detail gun to spray epoxy real deep into each crevice. In some places it leaked out the back into the interior where it wasn't fully welded. Hopefully with the rubberized undercoating that will be good enough.
No more welding allowed on the floor! 2 cans was a perfect amount. You definitely need a respirator for this stuff, especially working under a tarp.
In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :
I’m looking at going back to the factory ecu. I'm quite certain someone smarter than me could figure it out reasonably well, but I think the best driveability in my budget will be stock.
I've made some progress cup-brushing all the interior rust, but nothing photo-worthy and honestly I'm not working on it as much as I would like to. I plan to de-rust the interior surfaces, patch all exterior panels, replace the rotted header panel, re-weld and de-rust the roof, then prime the interior. Then maybe I'll put it on the frame. I have some fresh sheetmetal pieces on order.
In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :
That's what happens when you add kittens to the mix.
In reply to hobiercr (FS) :
True. They are so cute tho.
Interior is completely cup-brushed of all (well...most) of the rust. Started the body patches. Also tore apart the windshield and header area.
This header panel is beyond repair by me.
Also removed the windshield side garnishes to expose yet more rust that needs brushing.
Luckily new header panels are under $100
Windshield frame and garnishes are on the way too. Once I check how they all fit up, I'll start welding the header and roof back together.
Needs the sun visor. Always thought they made the model a look right.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
100% agree. I have one, but it's sloppily brazed to the rest of the roof and I'm struggling with how to proceed there. I may end up building all the roof panels from scratch because this brazing crap is frustrating me.
I totally disagree that you dont have the skills to fix the header panel. Not that buying your way out of a corner is not valid, but I am pretty sure you could have stiched the header into service without expanding your skills beyond what you have done already.
NOHOME said:I totally disagree that you dont have the skills to fix the header panel. Not that buying your way out of a corner is not valid, but I am pretty sure you could have stiched the header into service without expanding your skills beyond what you have done already.
Completely agree with this statement. You seem to do great work and be perfectly capable of fixing that.
Looking at your other thread about the roof I think making it all new with fresh steel is the easy button.
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