---CAR IS SOLD---
I realize this isn't an inexpensive car and it's a mostly done project (though is any project really done?), but I've been tracking the ups and downs on it for a while here on GRM and so I figured I would post a FS here.
I can say for certain that I would never again buy a stock C6 Z06 due to the variety of issues the motor can have in all years, but I can wholeheartedly recommend this car even if you want to do nothing to it at all. I've replaced or rebuilt nearly every major component on the car over my ownership.
Future project items I had considered if I was going to keep it.
- I had considered installing monoball suspension bushings. They would make the already precise handling even more precise, but the tradeoff is that they might make the car less comfortable on the street.
- Aero. There are different options for adding aero to the car that still keeps it in CAM-S, but I never got around to adding them as I wanted them to be nice in form as well as function. The car still looks really good and isn't something I wanted to hack up.
- Stereo. The head unit is a pretty high end head unit, but it's a little older. The speakers are still the stock BOSE and there are different options for installing a sub.
- Along with the stereo I had considered doing additional sound deadening in the front compartment and in the doors. It's more weight, but honestly the car has so much power it doesn't matter.
- Retrofit the automated trunk lid close into this car. Some of the C6s will pull the trunk lid closed for you. This one you just let it drop or push it closed. It's not a big deal, but just something I thought would be nice to have.
There are also obviously unending numbers of engine modifications you can do to add more to the already insane power and of course even more radical chassis mods, interior mods, exterior mods.
General Details
2006 Corvette Z06 2LZ
Victory Red exterior and two tone red/black interior
Sale Price
SALE PENDING
Reason for sale is I have a C8 incoming.
Please read the rest of this post carefully to understand why I am asking this much money.
Contact Info
Contact me at hmeeker at gmail dot com. If you PM me here I should see it as well, but I might not be right up on them.
Car Location
Southern Connecticut
Owner History
I bought the car from a forum member who lived in Texas. He was the second owner, I am the third owner. I have the title in hand.
Date Received
I received the car via enclosed transport on 8/19/2016.
Mileage at time of purchase
53,019
Current Mileage
69,161 miles on the chassis as of this writing. 6203 miles on the motor and clutch.
Primary Use
I used the car for autocrossing both locally and at a national level in A-Street and in CAM-S. I drove the car to events. I also enjoy driving it on nice days around town. I did do one SCCA Track Night In America event at Thompson Speedway after getting the car, but otherwise the car has not been on track. It's honestly way too fast to drive on track at 100% without a full cage, HANS and all the safety equipment.
Documentation
I tracked all the things I did with and to the car in this thread on the Grassroots Motorsports forum with accompanying photographs. The car has been in the reader's projects section of the magazine. Nothing is hidden with this car.
I also have a spreadsheet that tracks work done to the car by mileage and date as well as a spreadsheet that details all the parts replaced when the engine was rebuilt.
This is a relatively recent pic of the car with livery on for autocrossing. I will remove all of the vinyl and stickers before the buyer picks it up.
This is an earlier picture of the car without livery on the stock replicas.
Exterior Appearance and Condition
The car is a driver and while it looks amazing and people remark on it all the time, detailed inspection will reveal minor cosmetic issues from use such as small chips on the front bumper and side skirts as well as some on the mirrors. This is not a pristine garage queen. This car has seen action and traveled. That said, it has never been used in the winter and has always been garaged while in my care. The underside of the car is very clean. I avoid taking it out in the rain whenever possible, but it has seen rain during it's time going to and from autocross events. I'm into detailing cars and the last time I went over it I put a ceramic coat on it myself. The car has not been hit or in an accident and has a clean Carfax.
Interior Appearance and Condition
The interior has some minor wear on the driver's bolster and some in the areas where my knees contact the interior trim during high speed maneuvers, but is otherwise in great condition. I added sound insulation to the rear trunk area to mitigate road noise.
Engine Rebuild
The engine was rebuilt at 62,958 miles as the rod bearings seized. The pre-2009 cars with the smaller sump tank are known to have oil starvation issues during high speed maneuvers and I think that is what caught up to me, though it's certain that one of the previous owners also drove the car hard as I had to replace the clutch when the car arrived. The rebuilt motor has a forged bottom end without the titanium rods (which were bent when the motor seized). It's built for reliability and runs fine on the stock computer. It makes plenty of power and still gets 26mpg on the highway if you are inclined to throw it into 6th.
-Compstar Rods CSC6125DS2A2AH
-Compstar Crank AWO-31Q-CS
-Wiseco Pistons - Custom made
-Stock block machined to fit
-All gaskets and seals were replaced when the engine was rebuilt along with any parts that could have ingested debris from the motor seizing.
-Heads are polished and ported with replacement bronze valve guides
Engine Modifications
To mitigate oil starvation issues when the motor was rebuilt I sent the stock sump tank to Lingenfelter to have it modified so that the total sump capacity is now 11 quarts up from 8. The tank appears stock as the addition sits in the fender well. I also installed the Aviaid dry sump tank baffle and vent. There is no indication in the engine bay that anything is different from a stock car.
Clutch
When the motor was out a new GM clutch and slave was installed as my mechanic had one lying around and the initial clutch replacement I had done used a Luk kit which he did not think was all that great.
Aftermarket Coilover Suspension
The suspension was converted to coilovers at 65754 miles. The coilovers are from G-Speed, it's their Penske double adjustable setup that costs around $6300 as of this writing. I have several different sets of springs that I will include, but as of now it rides on 550/700. The ride quality is much better overall with the Penske dampers even with the stiffer springs and the handling is much improved. The car has a 33mm front adjustable swaybar from Stranoparts and the Hotchkis 2284R adjustable rear sway bar. Right now it is corner weighted and aligned for autocross with aggressive camber settings, but I can have it set back to stock alignment settings. I do have the stock shocks, stock swaybars and stock leaf springs, which are included with the purchase. The stock leaf springs with this spring rate cannot be bought new anymore as far as I know.
This is post coilovers running hard on course. The car is very composed.
Transmission
When the suspension was out the transmission was pulled and rebuilt as reverse had lost a synchro. There is also a remote clutch bleeder installed.
Torque Tube
While the transmission was out the torque tube was serviced and bearings and bushings replaced.
Rear End
The rear end was also serviced while the transmission was out. I also replaced the front control upper control arms with new ones as the bushings needed to be replaced. At this time I also replaced the rear subframe as I spun and went ass backwards up onto a curb at NNJR autocross. I was lucky I went up backwards as the only thing that happened is the curb rode across the swaybar and took a small chunk off the subframe. I sourced a used known good subframe to replace the one that was damaged.
Shifter
I installed the MGW short throw shifter which runs $400. You will never want to use a car with the stock shifter after using this one. This one is shorter, but not excessively so and it makes the shifts much more precise.
Exhaust
During my time with the car I initially had some issues with the exhaust hitting on the trans pan during hard acceleration. After much troubleshooting I found the exhaust was bent and so I replaced the mid pipe and axle back sections of the exhaust entirely with a 2010 stock setup from a car with around 15k miles on it. I replaced all the exhaust hangers front to back at this time with new ones.
Wheels
I have three and a half sets of wheels that will come with the car. The aftermarket wheels are 18" all around to make it easier to source tires for autocrossing.
- Stock wheels in silver.
- Stock replica wheels in gloss black - 18x9.5 front and 18x12 rears
- Forgestar F14 - 18x9.5 front and 18x12 rears in silver (though I used plastidip to make them black, but it needs to be removed as it now doesn't look great. I was planning to refinish them in gloss black to match the 18x11s as I don't like the silver that much).
- Forgestar F14 - 18x11 fronts in gloss black. These I used with the 18x12s on the rear with a 315 tire all around.
Tires
- The stock wheels have new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires.
- The stock replicas have used BFG Rival S on them.
- The Forgestar F14 18x11s and 18x12s have nearly new Falken Azeni RT660 tires on them. 315 30 18 all around as they don't make a 325 or 335 for the rear.
- The Forgestar F14 18x9.5 have used BFG Rival S on them.
I also have some older unused BFG Rivals sitting around that fit the aftermarket rims.
Brakes
Power Stop drilled and slotted brake rotors
Power Stop Z26 padlets
Pentosin Super DOT 4 brake fluid
This might be the only place where I went relatively cheap with the car as you don't need super brakes for autocross, but at the same time the car stops hard and there is minimal dusting from these pads. I did one SCCA Track Night in America event at Thompson after putting these brakes on and I had no problems with them.
Oil
5w30 Amsoil Signature Series
Other Stuff
New battery
Aftermarket head unit from a previous owner. I have the stock unit.
Wired up a switch to an Add-A-Fuse to make a DIY mild to wild switch that opens up the exhaust. The switch is concealed in what would be the ashtray compartment (non smoker).
Added full reflective heat insulation kit to the transmission pan and sides, keeps the heat from the trans out of the cabin.
The motor mounts and the transmission mounts have been replaced with stock parts.
What Does It Need?
The car needs the passenger rear wheel bearing replaced as it is making noise. I replaced the drivers rear a couple of years ago with a Timken and I have another one for the passenger side in a box.
The car has the HUD and the HUD functions, dims and moves up and down, but at one point during my ownership something in there broke and the HUD display now vibrates slightly. It's a common failure from what I've read on the forums. There are options to get it fixed if you get it out of the car. It doesn't make the HUD unusable, but it's not great. I didn't want to pull the whole dash off to replace it so I just dim it and ignore it. There is another option where people have cut into the dash so they could replace it without removing the dash and I didn't like that option either.
Conclusion
I'm an open book on this car. If I haven't included detail in here it's because I forgot or because it's already in the GRM thread, I'm not trying to conceal anything. I would trust this car to drive to California tomorrow (with a different alignment).
