2011 128i Problems

In reply to 06HHR (Forum Supporter) :

It would almost be a relief if it was just bad parts. I think my first thought would be to put the old OEM flywheel back in. Or maybe I should just go single mass flywheel.

white_averson said:

In reply to white_averson :

Also the feeling is a shuddering, like its rapidly catching and slipping, that almost maintains revs when it does slip

With it not changing rpm are you sure it is a clutch issue?  I have had misfires feel like a clutch chatter but not set a check engine light.  N52 Bosch coils are bad about misfiring at high load.

white_averson said:

In reply to Slippery :

OE I guess. All Luk branded. But the flywheel was only replaced the first time

LUK is good stuffs, can't imagine that's the issue 2X....

In reply to Caperix :

Thats probably a bit of an exaggeration. RPM increases but it feels like if I stayed on the gas I wouldn't accelerate. I have considered that it might be something else completely and admittedly am lacking experience enough to miss things like that but I'm certain its the clutch and a misfire should trigger a check engine light I would think.

Also realized I finally got rid of the factory flywheel at some point so if I replace that I gotta take another $500+ hit...

white_averson said:

Also realized I finally got rid of the factory flywheel at some point so if I replace that I gotta take another $500+ hit...

I've got my old DMF sitting on a shelf. It was perfect when it came out of the car - no leaks, no signs of heat or damage. Probably a little surface rust on it now, but I'd have to check. I'll give you a GRM-friendly price if you're want to go cheap instead of new. PM me if you're interested.

In reply to 02Pilot :

I might have to take you up on that if the transmission is coming out again. I'm tempted to try replace the slave even though I can't think of a way that it would cause the issue even if it overextended.

I don't recall you mentioning one often-overlooked component: did you replace the plastic clutch fork pivot? I put in the upgraded E31 steel one when I replaced the clutch, but there are brass ones (or new stock plastic ones) available as well. If that failed, it could be affecting the position of the clutch fork.

In reply to 02Pilot :

Oh man, you got me there. I even got to swapping the clutch fork and thought I probably should do that.

02Pilot said:

I don't recall you mentioning one often-overlooked component: did you replace the plastic clutch fork pivot? I put in the upgraded E31 steel one when I replaced the clutch, but there are brass ones (or new stock plastic ones) available as well. If that failed, it could be affecting the position of the clutch fork.

Given how the fork works in this application, the clutch slipping due to the pivot failing would be almost impossible. Not that changing that piece is not a good move, just DO NOT use the brass ones, either a new plastic one or the steel one mentioned above.

white_averson said:

In reply to Caperix :

... I'm certain its the clutch and a misfire should trigger a check engine light I would think.

I would agree with that as well. I just had one coil fail on my e46 and the "Service Engine Soon" light would flash and then stayed on.

Well, I hung on to hope and bought a new slave and a pressure bleeder and did that this weekend. As expected, no change, so I guess I gotta drop the trans again. Trying to decide what to replace. I think the flywheel should be and I definitely need the fork pivot. Do I bother buying another clutch kit? Can the pressure plate be removed and reinstalled without the throwing star?

In reply to white_averson :

You can remove the pressure plate without the star, but reinstalling would be a major pita. I am sure it can be done though. 

In reply to Slippery :

I guess I can look when I get in there, could you put the star back in the pressure plate once its removed?

Looks like there is a procedure to reset the pressure plate. Tempted to spend more money and get a 330i clutch kit...

white_averson said:

It slipped immediately after both replacements. And was slipping before I replaced it the first time, though I wasn't paying attention to how it slipped at that time.

It slips when I'm in "too high" a gear and step on it. Think passing on the highway. If I drive it like I'm trying to get in trouble, it won't slip and if I baby it, it doesn't slip.

I'll make a thread on 1addicts and see what they say.

your description of when it slips is confusing.    Are you 100% sure it is slipping?   Shuddering is not the same thing.  Or at least it's adding an element to a slipping clutch.  
 

if you arent getting 100% clutch engagement, you will notice it more the harder you push it. 
 

i wonder if you don't have another issue that you think is the clutch slipping.  I'd suggest getting someone who really knows slipping clutches to drive it. 

What does it do in a high-load situation (top gear, uphill, low RPM, then hit the gas)?

In reply to jfryjfry :

I guess I can have someone else drive it. It does shudder if I understand the definition of that. It rabidly grabs and slips so that it feels like a vibration.

In reply to dj06482 (Forum Supporter) :

It would definitely slip or shudder. Maybe I need to find someone with more experience with what a clutch slipping feels like to drive it. I can easily replicate it by driving about 40 mph in 4th (~2,000ish rpm) and stepping on it.

Okay, I'm just researching it online at the moment but it sounds like shudder is typically on takeoff which isn't the issue. But typical clutch slip doesn't chatter (or whatever you would call it) like mine does.

I'd do a forced clutch slip test to be sure. Get it moving above 3000 rpm in second gear and press the brake and floor the gas pedal at the same time. Press the brake hard enough that it barely accelerates or holds speed despite being floored. You will get a serious rpm change with a slipping clutch.

Edit: can you post a video?

I have found that trying to bump start a car in a taller gear will show a slipping clutch the most.   I have a car that does not slip at all when driving but I had to bump start it (in 3rd or maybe 2nd) and it slipped. 
 

if the clutch shudders when you slip it a little when shifting or taking off, then the shudder you feel while driving it could be the clutch.  But since I don't think that's the case, I'd not think that it would shudder if it were to be slipping on its own. 

So interesting results...

My inexperience might be catching up to me but I'll see what you guys think first because of that inexperience. I'm thinking I may have wasted a lot of time and money... Worth noting that the check engine light came on when I did this... It did turn off after a few more minutes of driving.

I think a better video would be to go to a somewhat safe place, and do a pull in 3rd gear showing both rpm and speedometer. Go all the way to almost redline, 6.5k rpms will tell easily if slipping or not.