A what car tread: 2400# RWD racecar ideas?

STS_ZX2 wrote: Chevy Monza. SBC is a bolt-in. Solid rear axle...good for draggin.

Seriously.

Mercury Comet--gutted, it's all there. Even a V-8 option

Merkur ZR4ti with the turbo 4. The rear tires might be tight, but the boost can be turned up a lot

S-10 truck, cheap, light when gutted, and easy to run, also has the frame there to accept a V-8 and brackets for beefing up the rear suspension attachment points. Tires fitment is not a problem.

RX-7 is an obvious.

I think your most troublesome point may be keeping a stock suspension to live in an 8 second car. I think the S-10 wins in that area.

Need more criteria as to what can or can't be changed out in the car: engine, trans, suspension components but in stock location and design, etc...

Somebody has to say this:

Volvo 240 Turbo wagon.

early 80s Celica and fit a boosted RZ under the hood... Proven 1/4 mile times under 8 seconds @ over 200 mph

you will have to tub it some... but the rest is there

93celicaGT2 wrote:

MadScientistMatt wrote:

mndsm wrote: HAS to be RWD? I'd say Starquest w/ a 4g63. Those'll run that fast. Otherwise, if you go AWD... DSM.

Instead of Starquest, how about Starlet? Not sure on the wheelwells size, but weighs nothing... Pintos are a pretty obvious drag car choice as well, particularly if you were already thinking Mustang.

Puerto Rico likes Starlets and pre-AE86 Corollas. There's some stupid fast 3tc-t powered Startlets down there. They also like rotaries in those same cars. I'm pretty sure there's some 8 second examples of them.

Puerto Rico will make ANYTHING an 8-second car. It's insane the level of talent for that sport that's there.

I'll post some videos of the Puerto Rico stuff if i get chance tonite. Scary, scary cars.

93celicaGT2 wrote: MKii Supra/3rd gen Celica GTS w/ a nasty 2jz? Before i throw out other examples, what's the budget like?

If you're building a drag car, I'd skip the IRS cars and go with a Celica GT/ST.

What are the V6 rules?

Mr2 with a boosted V6 would be unique and the launch will be brutal.

Or a Starlet!!! Super light, almost a RWD EG/EK!

fast_eddie_72 wrote:

93celicaGT2 wrote: MKii Supra/3rd gen Celica GTS w/ a nasty 2jz? Before i throw out other examples, what's the budget like?

If you're building a drag car, I'd skip the IRS cars and go with a Celica GT/ST.

Good point, and they're cheaper, too. And uglier. Which is cool.

If the suspension has to stay stock, and you want to run 8s for cheap, it has to be a rwd stick axle. No way an IRS is going to have enough antisquat if you're not spending huge dollars. I'd stay away from FWD for the same reason unless the engine is hanging over the bumper.

Weight is a toughie. RX7 is a good one.

scardeal wrote: Corvair? MR2? Old 911 with Subie swap?

Old 911 with 2-3 rotor turbo swap

It is going to have to be a stick axle. I still don't understand the rules. Do you have a rule book or something to give us more ideas? I would say something like a Pinto or Monza or maybe an old RWD Toyota but none of those have rear ends which can hold that kind of power and even if you swap the axles I don't think the suspension would be ideal with that kind of massive power. Could you swap a Ford 9" and 4-link in or not?

Usually "stock" rear suspension rules in drag racing means stock location points on the body, but unlimited rear axles and what kind of bars and traction aids. In other words, take your fox Mustang, replace the 4 CA's with tubular/heim joint ones, replace 7.5 or 8.8 with 9", remove sway bar and quad-shocks, and add coil-overs.

For an 8-second car it will have to be SRA for sure.

I guess the Focus w/ V8 stick axle conversion is out of the question, then. That would make for some killer jaw drops when people see it do a wheelstand...

Complete rules as they are now:

(Single power adder only except 4cylinder or V-6) SB NA................................................ ............ 2450 lbs No Billet heads except NA SB N20 (single stage plate)............................. 2900 lbs SB N20 (2stage plate).................................... 3075 lbs Sb N20 (single stage fogger)............................3000 lbs Sb N20 (2 stage)............................................ .3150 lbs Sb N20 (3stage).......................................... ... 3200 lbs !!!!!!!!!!!!SB N20 + NA UNLIMITED INDUCTION ALLOWED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Max 3stages on SB's, one stage has to be plate no 3 stage foggers.

SB Single Blower/Turbo(Max F1/88MM)................. 3250 lbs SB Single Blower/Turbo(Max F2/98MM)................. 3350 lbs SB Single Blower/Turbo( F3/106MM MAX).............. 3400 lbs (MAX Twins on SB's 76's)

BB NA (Up to 640 c.i.)................................. 2950 lbs BB NA (Over 640 c.i.).................................. 3200 lbs No Billet Heads BB NA (2 carbs)........................................... +50 lbs BB N20 (Single stage plate).......................... 3150 lbs BB N20 (2stage plate).................................. 3200 lbs BB N20 (single stage fogger)........................ 3250 lbs BB N20 (2 stage)......................................... 3350 lbs 2stage max limit on BB N20. BB Single Blower/Turbo(Max F1/88MM/871)........... 3350lbs BB Single Blower/Turbo(Max F2/98MM).................. 3450lbs BB Single Blower/Turbo( F3/106MM MAX)............... 3550lbs All BB combos in Question,will be pumped upon being teched ,640 cubic inch limit on all combo's except NA. No Big Block Twin Combos No Twin turbos BB NO ROOTS, TYPE SUPERCHARGER EXCEPT 871 OR SMALLER!!

WEIGHT DEDUCTS: Springs & Shocks in stock location(does not include leaf springs)... -50 lbs Leaf-Spring Suspension........................................ .................... - 100 lbs Blo-Thru Combos............................................ ........................... - 50 lbs Non intercooled blower or turbo(GASOLINE ONLY).......................-50 lbs Inline 6 Cyl (Turbo/N2o Combos)........................................... ... -600 lbs (Deduct from SB F1/88mm blower turbo Weights) 4 Cyl/Rotary (Turbo/N2o Combos)........................................... -800 lbs (Deduct from SB F1/88mm blower turbo Weights) Inline 6 & 4 Cylinder Boosted Combos are allowed 1 single N2o Nozzle between Turbo/Blower and Intake

WEIGHT ADDS: Conv Head B.O.P.(add to SB Weight)........................................... +100 lbs CHASSIS/SUSPENSION: No full chassis cars. Ladder bars ok for all. No Aftermarket 4 links

BODY/INTERIOR: Anything goes as long as at weight, no tube chassis back half cars. Stock Appearing interior. Must run mufflers(Except Turbo Entries). No Billet heads (execpt SB NA) ALLOWED!!! No wheelie bars!!! Max 26x8.5 Sidewall designation slick only-cannot measure more than 85 inches in rollout 9.5 inches wide at any point in time during race! NO EXCEPTIONS) All rules will be enforced, and tech reserves the right to refuse for safety reasons or legalities. NHRA safety rules will apply to all.

Now my thoughts about what has already been posted:

First off, THANKS for the ideas.

Second, most of the old stuff in subcompact sizes are limited in the wheel wells. The Pinto, in station wagon version, would be one of my first choices, but I would have to lose the stock suspension and another possible 100# off. They barely fit an 8" wheel. Once you start modifying things to get the within the current rules, such as tires with a minitub, you are the first to be written out, as beyond the "intent" of the rules.

Third, I would run the Fox chassis, but it is way over weight and it doesn't matter on the version. The lightest version I have seen of is Sam Vincent's green 91-ish coupe running 7.30's. He has to weigh 2400# with driver and with CF nose/fenders/doors/trunklid/etc.., he is slightly overweight overall and he is running an all aluminum 440" SBF on 3 kits on top of that. I'm north of what he weighs, so that is why those are out. I don't mind being like 30 over, but I am 100 over, at least.

Brian

In reply to Ranger50:

Not sure how much it matter- it may not- but my 'stang friends at work tell me that the very eary 80's are the lightest.

As a follow up- tubbing may be hard, but box flares are so cool that they have their own thread.... Seems to be an option for the old sub cars.

That's really hard to read.

Assuming that it indeed reads that you can have a power added V8 that weighs 2450, get the aforementioned RX7 and get some suspension goodness. It only says the springs and shocks have to be in the stock location, so get yourself a Dana 60 or something and weld it in with a ladder bar setup. Run the small block with a giant turbo and a blow through. That reduces the weight to 2350 and you can spool it up with an MSD box retarding the timing all of the way on the starting line whilst on the 2-step.

Although a stout 632 can do the job, too, and be slightly easier to set up. The turbo is going to be where it's at though, because you don't hit the tires that hard compared to a blown or NA car, which is important in a tire limited class. Check the last few races of 2010 in NHRA Pro Mod where the one turbo guy had the field by 10 mph. Brad Personett. He doesn't have the combo nailed down yet, but he will quickly dominate to the point where NHRA will scrap or limit the turbo car(s) or everyone else will go turbo. It could work. Eights are hard to come by, though, be prepared to spend.

Nothing in the rules prevents box flares......

Opel Manta with a ladder bar rear axle attached to the stock trailing arm mounts. You'll want to beef them up a bit, but the ladder bars would let you eliminate the torque tube and run whatever axle you like. (2WD Toyota pickup would be a good choice.)

Add your favorite flavor of aluminum engine and even with all your interior you should be well under 2300lbs depending on what year you get. (small vs big bumper) I know 9.5" will fit, and I think even without rolling the fenders. Rolled fenders and you should have no issues with 10" and flares are a phone call away if you do.

In reply to alfadriver:

They are, with the Fairmonts being probably the lightest. But here is the problem, it is all the accessory pieces that need to be added to run that number. For example, A2W intercoolers are 40# plus the 20# of ice each pass plus the IC tank, pump, lines, and tubing. An 88mm turbo is 50# or thereabouts. Nitrous bottles are 30# when full.

Box flares rank next to minitubbing.

Brian

In reply to tuna55:

No, PA SB V8's are 3250. NA SB V8's can weigh 2450 too, same as the turbo4/rotary.

Sorry, the board formatted that all wrong.

Brian

I'm not too creative (nor am I going to cipher through all the rules) but I started a 74 Maverick project into which I was going to swap an STI drivetrain. With the exception of some front shock tower hacking, it would have been a pretty straight forward swap that was pretty easy to adapt.

Stock curb weights on 70-73 Mavericks were in the 2500-2700 range. Even my portly 74 with an all-iron 302, A/C, and other options weighed in at just shy of 2800, so cutting weight should be easy. Keep in mind that 300 lbs is about the "easy" range. You can shave 300 with seats, A/C delete, aluminum heads, radio and heater delete, etc. After that you often need to get into more involved surgery.

rear axle swaps are simple. Most Mavs come with 8" rears which are pretty easy to adapt to 9". In fact, the first Shelby Mustangs were the first to use a 9" in a passenger car. Shelby took the tubes out of the 8" stock center and welded in a 9" center section. Lincoln Versailles rears will get you an all-in-one package of discs, the proper width, and 9", but they're expensive. Explorer 8.8" rears do the same but at a much lower cost. The 8.8" is a corporate ripoff of the GM 12 bolt but not too many people know that which keeps 12 bolt prices high and 8.8"s cheap.

The factory leaf spring setup is pretty good for drags. Some traction bars and an airbag to preload the hot side will help you hook up.

Mavericks are the bastard children of the 70's Fords. Everyone wants a Pinto or a Mustang. The intermediate Maverick is dirt cheap and a good platform. I bought mine registered, inspected, and ready to rock with a 302 and working A/C for $300. It smoked a lot and I had to reach in the window to open the door, but what do you expect for 3 bills?

tuna55 wrote: If the suspension has to stay stock, and you want to run 8s for cheap, it has to be a rwd stick axle.

Amen. Trying to hook up 8 seconds with an IRS is a possibility, but its like trying to hook up with Angelina Jolie in a grease pit. You both get dirty and you both leave angry.

wait... what did I just say?

In reply to curtis73:

As much as I would love the no glovebox car......it's just too damn ugly.

Brian

If you haven't noticed, I like trucks. Thought about a Mazda B2200, but the weirdness......

Brian

Uh, dude, those rules don't say SQUAT about a stock wheel-well... They say no back-halving, which means a frame replacement. Mini-tub the sucker! Also, what's with this "stock suspension" BS? IT ALLOWS LADDER BARS!!!!!

Yeah, we're so done here. 1st Gen RX-7 + mini-tubs between the stock sub-frame rails + ladder bars + flares + SB = win.