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Black Stig
Black Stig Reader
11/20/08 8:42 a.m.

CC Plates are on order, just haven't gotten them in yet ^_^ I'm going to dial between 1.8 and 2.0 degrees of camber up front and try to zero it out or just over in the rear. We'll see though. When I get some real power to the wheels, I'll start dialing in more negative camber in the rear. I already need grip all the way around, I can't imagine how it's going to be when I finally push 400+ LOL!

I thought about doing the Terminator conversion, but then I started looking at the prices of those motors plus the labor and tuning of the swap once the engine is delivered. Just my luck, the engine will get in and won't run properly. I understand those numbers are easy to attain with a Terminator conversion but, truth be told, I don't think I'll be spending quite that much on getting my engine rebuilt. The 2v isn't the most powerful of the line up, but it can be done. It's been built in Doug's car, although I'm not one to compare my projects to someone else's. The Bullitt already seems to have some pretty good upgrades, as you already know, I feel a good tune with some lightweight internals will really take advantage of the parts already installed. I honestly feel that this will be a more financially sound decision. Trust me, I've been pricing engines, LOL! Besides, this is a brand new engine ^_^

I'm running Hotchkis Racing Springs, hold on, lemme find t3h lynx: http://www.hotchkis.net/p-585-sport-coil-springs.aspx

Yeah, when I do my bushing rebuild, it's simply going to include parts that have bushings inserted (i.e. new tubular control arms, k-member, yadda yadda)

I should add that I'll be throwing a good beefy sway bar kit on there.

To be honest, a good drifting setup isn't THAT far off from a good road racing setup. Quite literally . It even varies from person to person. Some people prefer a very stiff setup that pulls the tail around and simply butters over the ground as they slide. Others prefer a softer suspension that gives gobs of grip so that there's more control and speed possible. I feel its just all in what you're wanting to get from your car.

That's cool though, I appreciate your interest, I hope I can garner even more interest from this whole experience. To be honest, I'll probably start doing less and less online. I've already started running into the haters and the nay sayers and those are just people who are trying to bring me down. I don't have time for that so instead of doing "call outs" and such, I'll just stick to doing what I do best, at this point, learning and driving.

-Dave

Apexcarver
Apexcarver SuperDork
11/20/08 11:07 a.m.

how are you going to adjust the rear camber? bullitts have solid rear axles.

I think 2degrees is going to be less then you might end up wanting. for autocross im running max caster and 2.5degrees and still have hotter outside tire temps. (and have to run high pressures,) thats with stiff springs and a 35mm front swaybar.

Thing that confuses me is with the caster effect decreasing the camber on the outside tire in a countersteer situation (drift) does that make you want to run less caster to keep some camber, or is it a tool to allow a 4 wheel drift?

usual modular recipe i see is simply swap to forged internals and throw on a procharger. boost till power goal is met.

Black Stig
Black Stig Reader
11/20/08 6:26 p.m.

LOL! I like your power goals, but I'll just take my time with it all and make sure everything is dialed in well.

I'm not sure how ANYTHING in the rear is adjusted, but my toe was adjusted so if they can adjust toe . . . . .LOL! I'm running a toe-out of 0.36.

Well, I'm going to adjust to the dial of the car, depending on what the car does after each modification, then I'll adjust my driving for it. It's going to backfire for a bit when I'm doing the major upgrades such as better struts, sway bars, panhard, 3 link, blah blah blah.

Well, as you know, steering angle on the SN-95's is absolutely horrid; that makes getting the big-angle/big-smoke drifts near impossible. So what I'm going to do is get the control arms to help dial a little more in, then I'll eventually get the aftermarket rack with the aftermarket steering shaft. The prices are lower than I suspected but it's still an investment.

The only reason I'm going with them is because the steering quickener I'll be going with isn't recommended with the stock shaft, and if I do that, I might as well change out the rack at the same time. Better pump and the steering will be more than capable of dialing in the Doug Van Den Brink angle . . .

LIKE THIIIIIIIIIISSSS:

Look at THAT! LOL! I know I'm a long way away from that, but for now, it's an inexpensive dream that I know I'll soon attain.

-Dave

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