We're doing some sorting on a 2006 Factory Five Type 65 coupe at Eclectic Motorworks. The wiring has some issues that we're dealing with and there is an 8 wire connector on the headlight switch that has melted a little. Does anyone recognize this? We'd like to get a new plastic housing and terminals to make this right, but haven't been able to locate the housing yet.
Thanks!
Words on wires. Is this something like from Painless?
Ooh, I love those Daytona replicas.
I don't know the answer, but there's a Facebook group that exists solely for the purpose of identifying automotive connectors and helping people find sources for them. I bet a post there would get you the information pretty quickly.
John Welsh said:Words on wires. Is this something like from Painless?
I second this.
Did F5 sell a pre-made harness in the kit?
QuasiMofo (John Brown) said:John Welsh said:Words on wires. Is this something like from Painless?
I second this.
Did F5 sell a pre-made harness in the kit?
I've checked with Painless and they don't have it. I'm still waiting to hear back from Factory Five and gave them the serial number of the car if that helps. I'm thinking the hive may be faster...
obsolete said:Ooh, I love those Daytona replicas.
I don't know the answer, but there's a Facebook group that exists solely for the purpose of identifying automotive connectors and helping people find sources for them. I bet a post there would get you the information pretty quickly.
Thanks--I requested to join the group. This will be helpful in the future.
I think I'd just put a standard Molex 8-pin connector in there.
https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Circuit-Connector-Complete-Conn/dp/B07517JSZ3
This is the connector that goes on the back of the switch itself? Perhaps it was provided with the switch as an assembly, is there any markings on the switch to indicate brand or model number?
I don't have an answer, but if the FB group doesn't provide any love, you might try Corsa Technic - I've used them a few times in the past and they are amazingly good about hunting down some obscure connector, even if you only want to buy like 1.
I don't. It looks like an old Packard 56 type connector but they don't show it in the current catalog and I don't recognize the configuration as being any common light switch. Is it a conventional pull type switch with the rotate to dim feature? If so you might want to change the switch to something more common like the GM type. That's what's in the current Ron Francis kits that I think FF is using now.
You might also just call FF and ask them what it is.
If its factory five its likely foxbody mustang sourced. Almost everything on my spec racer from them wiring included was from a foxbody.
I asked Wayne at Very Cool Parts, who says it's a Ron Francis headlight switch plug. Hope that helps!
Tom Suddard said:I asked Wayne at Very Cool Parts, who says it's a Ron Francis headlight switch plug. Hope that helps!
The Ron Francis headlight switch is a GM style and that's what the current FF cars use but that's not what that connector looks like. Link to Ron Francis switch
Maybe it would be easier to get information on the connector if we knew more about the switch. Especially markings and what it looks like.
I'm about 1/4 way through the switches here but haven't found it yet.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/headlight-switches?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending
This looks like an old school 80s style headlight switch where all the current for the headlights runs through the switch. This is simply terrible and has resulted in many fires in many vehicles. My sons previous early 90s Dakota had a switch going bad that turned into a melty goey burning mess in my hands one day.
Ditch this switch and go to a switch that powers fused relays to the lights. The power should flow from the battery through the relay to the lights in short wiring runs. The switch to relay signal can be longer lower gauge wire. Having all that current travel from the battery to the switch and back to the headlights led to many melted plugs. Do not repeat.
Thanks for all the help, everyone. I've sent the pictures to all the vendors above (and more!) and none of them recognize the connector. I agree with APEowner that it's probably some Packard piece, but I haven't found the right old-timer to identify it.
I think the answer is going to be, replace the headlight switch with one that has a connector available. Thinking about it, if things got hot enough to melt the connector, the switch probably is compromised too. And our shop rate is almost $2/minute, so it's cheaper for the customer for me to buy a $40 switch and connector than search for hours for this connector.
Thanks again!
In reply to Carl Heideman :
Switch, two relays, and shorter power wiring........
In reply to AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) :
Yep
In reply to Carl Heideman :
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/impala/parts/MX01132.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK40qEIcdqys7OovauOc7cXo54DOxoHmi-7LI1kfSdJkmGgnSj7NYnqhoC5voQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
My two main fire concerns on our Radwood era hobby cars are headlight switches / wiring and early EFI fuel lines. While some might consider these modifications, I look at them as safety enhancements. My Camaro probably needs fuel line upgrades soon.
Closing the loop on this: First, it's not a connector at the headlight switch. We had the harness out of the car and assumed it connected to the switch since it had lighting wires. However, when we got stuck and went to look at the the switch for more clues, we realized the car has a standard GM switch with a connector like the Ron Francis one linked above. This connector turns out to be used to separate the lighting wiring in the underdash loom from lighting wiring in the engine compartment loom. Then we noticed an American Autowire label on something. After a quick e-mail to American Autowire, they identified the connector:
https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/grommet-connector-kit-8-wire
We'll still put in a relay solution but at least this mystery is solved.
Thanks for the help, everyone.
You'll need to log in to post.
