Danny Shields
Danny Shields GRM+ Memberand Reader
9/21/15 3:37 p.m.

Maybe I missed it in the Tech Tips, maybe it is just too basic. Anyone have good grassroots tips for replacement of a battery terminal clamp? Replace it with one of those generic replacement terminals, with the bolt-on cable clamp? Replace the whole cable and all the wires that go off in different directions? How do you end up with connections that are as durable and reliable as OEM?

Trans_Maro
Trans_Maro PowerDork
9/21/15 3:40 p.m.

I've found that by the time the clamp is shot, the cable is pretty rotten internally as well.

I usually make my own out of 0 gage cable and soldered terminals with double-walled heat shrink tube to seal the connection between the lug and the cable.

The double-wall shrink has a sealant in it that melts and seals when heat is applied.

Shawn

Dr. Hess
Dr. Hess MegaDork
9/21/15 3:59 p.m.

I have used the bolt on things when I had to, but best to replace the cable. Since I started slathering everything with wheel bearing grease a few decades ago, I haven't had to replace any cables/ends, except on new acquisitions.

Jumper K. Balls
Jumper K. Balls UberDork
9/21/15 8:38 p.m.

This style terminal

They either come with the solder and flux already inside or you buy the solder pellet separately.

Place the terminal in a vice with the socket facing up. Take your salvaged original cable or new cable and peel off 5/8" of the insulation. If you need another wire or two bundle them with the heavy gauge wire. Slip a piece of heat shrink tube on the wire and push it way out of the way. Insert the clean wire ends into the socket and heat the base with a propane torch

The solder will melt and allow the wires to slide in place, the flux will clean the joint and allow solder to flow properly. Once it is melted remove the torch and hold the wires until it has cooled and solidified. This will take a up to five minutes. Then slide the heat shrink up over the joint and wave the torch at it again to seal it all up

mikeatrpi
mikeatrpi Reader
9/21/15 9:01 p.m.

Go to a welding shop for the cable, since welding cable is more flexible than battery cable. Most will sell it by the foot.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy PowerDork
9/21/15 11:16 p.m.

Wash it with hot water first. Most likely it doesn't need to be replaced.

Danny Shields
Danny Shields GRM+ Memberand Reader
9/22/15 5:07 a.m.

Great info! Several good tips there. Jumper, where do you buy those terminals?

Thanks!

44Dwarf
44Dwarf UltraDork
9/22/15 5:31 a.m.

Moroso sells some nice brass units that use a split ferrel so no soldering is needed. They have them for side post as well

cable clamps

edizzle89
edizzle89 HalfDork
9/22/15 6:57 a.m.
Trans_Maro wrote: I've found that by the time the clamp is shot, the cable is pretty rotten internally as well.

from what I have seen the cable is usually only rotten for a inch or 2 into the insulation, what I have done in the past is, if there is enough wire to stretch, cut the bad 1-2 inches off the wire to get down to fresh wire and use a bolt on clamp, never had a problem after that.

EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/22/15 7:04 a.m.
Danny Shields wrote: Great info! Several good tips there. Jumper, where do you buy those terminals? Thanks!

Look for Quick Cable Fusion terminals, there should be some options online.

http://www.zoro.com/fusion-straight-terminal-10-ga-black-pos-406310p/i/G5253796/

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