I need to make some minor body work repair and I need to find the best rattle can gloss black and clear coat. Any suggestions?
I need to make some minor body work repair and I need to find the best rattle can gloss black and clear coat. Any suggestions?
Tamiya model paint.
Not joking
Probably best is having a local supplier mix your color and put in a spray can.
Rustoleum sucks E36 M3. Get a color match in a can from a local paint shop. If you can bring in a chip, they should even be able to match it if it's faded. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
Eastwood sells a 2k in a spray can if you're just looking for a generic gloss black.
Rustoleum makes an "Automotive Enamel" that I like. It goes on pretty well. Dries really fast. I've never used it as touch-up, or painted a car with it. Mostly just painting small parts.
The regular Rustoleum is okay if you've got two days to let it dry.
When I painted the tank on my KZ-400, I went to my local auto paint store and bought a custom-mixed quart of RTS (ready to spray), but I shot that with the HVLP.
Are you looking for a match? An approximate? Just a good paint? Go to your local art store and buy some Montana gold. It's like 10 bucks a can, but it is designed to adhere to anything, forever, and has the best color fastness and depth out of anything I've ever used.
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
I agree about the Rustoleum Automotive Enamel, but I find it really hard to get a consistant finish. It's like it dries too quick, even in high humidity.
Krylon drys pretty quickly and has consistant finish.
I'm going to try Molotow spray paint. Have no idea what to expect, but I've used their paint pens and they were awesome.
In reply to Shadeux (Forum Supporter) :
Molotow is another excellent choice. I love their markers.
Automotivetouchup.com has served me well in the past.
I painted a car with some acrylic enamel paint. I could get small sections somewhat glossy but not the hood or roof. I ended up just sanding the whole car and then buffing it. It turned out OK for using spray cans. Currently I'm fixing sections of another car that was painted some 30 years ago. I found touch up paint in a can that is an exact match and impossible to tell I made a repair after I spray the clear coat. It was a base coat/clear coat and the clear I'm using is a two part clear so I use a spray gun. I find that clear in a can just will not hold up over time. It turns milky and dull unless you buff it yearly.
The other day after repainting the same panel, i think 4 times I officially swore off painting body panels with a rattle can. After all the hours of body work it is a complete bummer to end up with uneven paint that doesn't hold up. I also found out that you can't paint with a gun over rattle can paint. You have to sand it all the way back down, or it will bubble and generally not adhere. I don't like to be the person to tell people to not do things, but in this case thats my recommendation, if its good looking paint you're after. I was even joking that i would like to travel around to high schools on some sort of Nancy Reagan style "just say no to rattle can paint" campaign.
NOT A TA said:Deja vu? https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/high-gloss-black-spray-paint/134039/page1/
Very interesting
After a bunch of bitter experience....
If this is a car you intend to keep and you like, stay away from rattle cans and use 2 part products only. And, as mentioned earlier, don't use 2 part over one part.
If it's just to make it look better for a while, Duplicolor stuff works alright. Also, remember, 1 part paints will not hold up to gasoline, so be careful if using around the fuel filler.
I will never paint a car with rustoleum again. After 2 months I tried to sand it off(Lemons retheme) and it did not want to come off. I tried 36 grit disks and they gummed up. I tried paint stripper and that made it a wet gooey mess. This was after about 3 hours of work.
whats the best to use over bare metal bodywork , something you are working on and either sanded that area down or sandblasted an area ,
a rattle can paint that will not react when painted over with 2 part paint
californiamilleghia said:whats the best to use over bare metal bodywork , something you are working on and either sanded that area down or sandblasted an area ,
a rattle can paint that will not react when painted over with 2 part paint
Quite simply, the rule is no 2 part over 1 part. It's not a case of reacting, it's that single part paints dry by evaporation of the liquid solvents in the paint. The off gassing goes on for a very long time, even after the paint has "dried". 2 part paints dry through a chemical reaction, fairly quickly creating a hard coating.
Putting a 2 part over a single traps the off gassing solvents under the hard coating of the 2 part. This can, and most likely will cause the 2 part coatings to lift, essentially ruining your mood for the whole day.
For bare metal, an epoxy primer or etching primer would be the way to go. For what you seem to be doing, I've actually brushed on a thin 2 part etching primer, and it worked fine.
In reply to buzzboy :
Rustoleum paints are fine for painting a Lemons car just don't plan on removing the paint for at least a year or more. A friend of mine has painted 4-5 Lemons race cars with Rusoleum paints and they hold up fine. He thins the paint and sprays it so it looks almost as good as automotive paint.
Try going to your local Tractor Supply store or similar. They sell "tractor" paints there and the paint maker also offers a hardener that works just like the automotive 2 part paints.
Since Rustoleum paint is enamel it dries slowly. The outer surface is dry to the touch but the lower layers are still soft and that's why you can't sand it. You can use paint remover but that makes a mess.
I painted my daily with three coats of un-thinned, rolled-on, Tremclad (an Alcyd Enamel, similar to Rustoleum). It took a LONG LONG time to dry, and smelled terrible (wonderful) while doing so.
Advantage: easy-peasy touchups are rust continues to come back. The outer surface sand easily for recoat, but it gets gummy the further down you go.
Disadvantage: the paint does sand a bit weird the further down you go. Also because there is no UV protection, it slowly goes chalky. Since it's an old truck, within a few years it started looking like an old truck, so it really didn't matter.
I figure that if you really loved the vehicle and were to restore it, you'd be blasting everything off and fixing the constant rust inside anyway.
For a cheap daily that I didn't care that much about - I'd totally roll on the Tremclad again.
Mndsm said:NOT A TA said:Deja vu? https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/high-gloss-black-spray-paint/134039/page1/
Very interesting
Very odd
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:I painted my daily with three coats of un-thinned, rolled-on, Tremclad (an Alcyd Enamel, similar to Rustoleum). It took a LONG LONG time to dry, and smelled terrible (wonderful) while doing so.
Advantage: easy-peasy touchups are rust continues to come back. The outer surface sand easily for recoat, but it gets gummy the further down you go.
Disadvantage: the paint does sand a bit weird the further down you go. Also because there is no UV protection, it slowly goes chalky. Since it's an old truck, within a few years it started looking like an old truck, so it really didn't matter.
I figure that if you really loved the vehicle and were to restore it, you'd be blasting everything off and fixing the constant rust inside anyway.
For a cheap daily that I didn't care that much about - I'd totally roll on the Tremclad again.
Only on grassroots would someone stating they ROLLED paint on the daily driver make any sense.
Mndsm said:Only on grassroots would someone stating they ROLLED paint on the daily driver make any sense.
Back when I was on teh Honda-Tech forums it was called the "$50 paint job."
$50 (more like $452.63) paint job writeup thread - TONS of pictures
I totally forgot about this sub-forum, lots of good info there: Paint and Body Auto Body Repair, Painting and Prep
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