I redid the VANOS seals on my m3 a few weeks ago, and replaced the seal between the VANOS body and cylinder head while I was in there. It was an older paper gasket and a total PITA to try to remove. I fought with it for over an hour, using a razor and some various cleaners before declaring it 'good enough' and putting everything back together. Obviously, it wasn't good enough and the car leaks like a sieve. berkeley.
What does GRM recommend to remove any last remaining bits of gasket? Any special tools/solvents that make this any easier? And when it comes time to reseal, would it be safe to use some RTV along with the gasket?
Thanks!
I'm a Ford Lightning man, myself. Just rips the gaskets off.
Seriously though, and this will sound kind of weird, but try taking a ball peen hammer and using the flat side lightly tap all of the gasket material. Go over it two or three times, you'll see the change in the material when it is ready. When it is done right you can almost take it off with a fingernail.
I'm not sure if it works on all materials, but an old timer I worked with in the heavy equipment shop at Eglin showed me that trick. I've used it successfully on old boat motors, old diesel engines, and both of my vehicles.
Edit: if you have a surface that is showing metal at all I wouldn't use this trick. Depends on what you mean by saying there are some bits left.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
Well E36 M3. I read over my comment 2-3 times to make sure I didn't make any stupid mistakes and forgot to check the title! Whoops!
But seriously, thanks for the advice! I'll give it a shot.
Roloc wheel and a right angle die grinder.
Is the VANOS assembly plastic or aluminum? I'm not familiar with BMWs at all.
I'd be tempted to soak the gasket in some sort of fluid or solvent. WD40 maybe? ATF? Anything to soften up the gasket material so it will release from the surface and make scraping it easier.
Permatex Gasket Remover works like a charm on old GM aluminum.
Rog
Patience, a fresh single edge razor blade, some more patience.
I use a small pair of ViseGrips to hold the razor blade.
A hot air gun for really stubborn stuff.
If I have to get aggressive I use a wood chisel sharp gasket scraper. You need lots of patience with that to avoid plowing into your gasket surface.
Please don't use rotary abrasive tools.
Silicone sealer has it's place, but I prefer Gasgacinch for paper gaskets.
WD-40 and an old credit card.
93gsxturbo said:
Roloc wheel and a right angle die grinder.
That's a good way to wreck the bottom end.
I killed a 3.8l Sable and my first car's 429 with that. The thrown off grit destroys the bearings, in my case in under ten miles. Wiped half the cam lobes too. THEN they told me to never use Rolocs for engine work.
I like plastic razer blades for this kind of thing. They won't gouge or scratch aluminum and will fit in regular razer scraper handles.
pirate
HalfDork
6/7/20 3:35 p.m.
Shadeux (Forum Supporter) said:
WD-40 and an old credit card.
I used to travel a lot with my job and always saved the hotel plastic room keys. They are great for removing gaskets with WD40 or brake cleaner, scraping other surfaces, spread body filler or glue, making templates, scraping ice of windshields when retail car company doesn't put ice scraper in car, use them and throw away.
In reply to stanger_mussle (Forum Supporter) :
The VANOS unit and head are both aluminum. I had tried PB blaster, but maybe I didn't let it set long enough. I'll try ATF this time too
In reply to bentwrench :
I've never heard of gasgacinch! I'll pick some up. Interestingly enough, while the old gasket was definitely paper/fiber, the replacement more of a reinforced plastic
