Have plenty of surface rust, and some that is bubble rust on the focus. Good thing is that the car is black, so a lot of it I can cover up without being too much of an eyesore.
What's the best way to treat? POR-15 in a spray can? What procedure works best? I'm a newbie when it comes to treating rust.
Bestest way to treat rust is to get rid of it. Cut it back to good steel. Not to be crude but treat it like cancer, leave no trace.
However I've used brush on rust converter as directed (3 coats) and it's kept rust at bay for over a year now.
I've had good results with POR-15, but what's best for you depends on your situation. What's your objective? Restoration? Or just keep it on the road without pieces falling off? Also, how many wheelbarrows full of money do you have access to?
Just want to keep it on the road and retard the rust for now. These are small areas I'm talking about. Overall, the chassis is in good shape. Biggest areas are 3x3".
I've been thinking about doing this as well to my rocker corners on my Accord. Freakin' coupes with their unique rear quarters....
Maybe a little bondo and primer - just don't paint it or maybe some great stuff foam - oh wait, that was my dreaded PO's approach on how not to do rust control... for keeping it at bay for a while I've had luck with por 15 or rustoleum heavy rust
I've had good luck with POR. Just follow the directions!
+1 for rust conversion chemicals such as Naval Jelly. Sand off as much as you can and then use that. And then put some paint over it.
+1 for POR15 for your purposes. Read the label for UV protection. I believe you'll have to topcoat it with something if you're looking at an outside surface.
From wikipedia:
Phosphoric acid may be used as a "rust converter", by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4. An empirical formula for this reaction is:
2H3PO4 + Fe2O3 ===) 2FePO4 + 3H2O
"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called "naval jelly". It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.
After treatment, the black ferric phosphate coating can be scrubbed off, leaving a fresh metal surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance (such protection is also provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes).
Were can one get phosphoric acid?
POR15 does require a topcoat if exposed to UV light. While the POR15 is still sticky, lightly spray it with some primer. Then when it is dry you can apply the topcoat. Paint sticks best that way. This info is on the label if I remember right.
Do not spray POR15 unless you have a very good respirator (think fresh air type), it is quite toxic when sprayed.
Appleseed wrote: Were can one get phosphoric acid?
Not exactly industrial strength, but it's as close as yer H-D:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-fl-oz-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver-Bottle-553472/203009241
In reply to Appleseed: I have had some success with Phosphoric Prep & Etch (Home Depot) and a product called Evapo-Rust which I think I picked up at Advance Auto.
81cpcamaro wrote: Do not spray POR15 unless you have a very good respirator (think fresh air type), it is quite toxic when sprayed.
And more importantly is very good at painting the inside of your lungs 
And POR15 loves to cure from moisture, and while I'm not a doctor, I have heard that your lungs are moist inside.
I had some good results with using Corroseal to convert rust but it's not a one stop solution. You gotta hit it with decent primer afterward and then some kind of topcoat.
1988RedT2 wrote:Appleseed wrote: Were can one get phosphoric acid?Not exactly industrial strength, but it's as close as yer H-D: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-fl-oz-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver-Bottle-553472/203009241
Nice! Will be picking some up soon!
clean as best as possible with wire brush. Use naval jelly or other converter. Coat with POR or another product, I prefer rustbullet, I've used both. POR requires a topcoat, rustbullet does not but it's silver so you'll probably want to topcoat it to color match.
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