BMW N52 VANOS "Non return valve" R&R

Question for my BMW peoples:  2007 N52, trying to R&R the VANOS "non return valves".  I can unscrew them all the way, but can't pull them out.  Nothing to grab onto, aluminum so non-magnetic, Torx bits are NFG for applying any pulling force.  Do you put a little RTV or JB Weld on the Torx bit and wait for it to cure?  Do you spray some kind of lube into the bore before unscrewing them?  I'm sure the problem is friction between the o-ring and the bore they live in.  Had to put it back together with the old valves still in place.  :-(

   There is a company that makes rebuild kits for  these, and they have good instructions.  As I recall there is a left hand nut or screw somewhere.

       I did this several years ago.    So I can't be to much help......

In reply to TED_fiestaHP :

that sounds like a different design, from a different engine.  on the N52, the VANOS solenoids install in the front surface of the cylinder head and they're easy-peasy to R&R.   However, there are these other things called "Non Return Valves" which are a combination check valve and filter, and when the filters get crapped up (which happens when people follow the "Condition Based Service" oil change interval -- when I reset my oil change light last night, it said "16000 miles to next oil change" -- yes, sixteen thousand miles), the VANOS doesn't work right and it'll set DTC's for cam timing and/or VANOS solenoid faults.   These Non-Return Valves thread into the exhaust side of the head, in front of #1 exhaust port.  They are aluminum, and use an internal torx T-40. They live down inside a bore, and there's an o-ring near the top of the valve to prevent oil leaks.  The thread is on the bottom of the valve, and when fully unthreaded the top of the valve is flush with the head.  Friction of the o-ring inside the bore is preventing me from pulling the valve out of the head.

at 10 PM last night i had to put it back together with the old valves in place so i could drive it to work this morning.   I friggin' hate not having a spare car.

I haven't dealt with these yet, but I'd probably try some sort of temporary and easy-to-clean adhesive before I escalated things to epoxy. Clean the plug torx hole really well (brake cleaner or similar) and use a little contact cement on the bit. Or, to get more surface area, get a rubber plug the same diameter as the aluminum one and coat the whole face with contact cement. Now that I think about it, I'd try the rubber plug first. That might give good enough purchase to either twist or yank it out of the head.

Email Beisan and I am sure he will help you out with your question.

Beisan website

Regarding the oil change interval, you can change that. You need the proper scan tool. If you want to pay shipping both ways, I would be glad to lend you mine. 

For tonight's happy fun time living the high-mileage BMW life, I went after the VANOS non-return valves again.
Used a different Torx bit and was able to put enough side force into the tool to pull the valves out.
Hooray!
But the old filters were as clean as the new ones, so this effort will have no effect on how the car runs.
Boo!
Next step will be to replace the VANOS solenoids, as I've already cleaned them and replaced their o-rings.  Still setting P1554.
Pic 1 shows old valve on top, new valve on bottom.
Pic 2 shows what I'm after.  Hint:  it's those shiny round things with the 6-point holes in the center.
Pic 3 shows about half the length of extensions required to R&R them.
Pic 4 shows that sometimes you have to remove the front wheel and fender liner to work on parts of the engine.

In reply to Slippery :

I didn't see any N52 stuff on his website, but I will look again.

I hate to say this, but if you're relying on an OBD2 P-code for diagnostics you may be leading yourself down a false path. There are quite a few instances where the BMW-specific fault code will be at odds with what an OBD2 scanner tells you, enough at least to send you looking at things that aren't actually the source of the problem. I hope that's not the case here, but once you get into the manufacturer-specific systems like this OBD2 is less than helpful at times; it's good for stuff that's common across manufacturers, like catalytic converters, O2 sensors, ignitions coils, etc.

In reply to 02Pilot :

I have a generic scanner which I use only for the code, not the definition of the code.  For example, this P1554.  My pocket scan tool has no definition, but Google does.  So I read up on it and decide if it's something I'm going to chase.

AngryCorvair said:

In reply to 02Pilot :

I have a generic scanner which I use only for the code, not the definition of the code.  For example, this P1554.  My pocket scan tool has no definition, but Google does.  So I read up on it and decide if it's something I'm going to chase.

Understood. The problem is that OBD2 can only give you a general idea, whereas the BMW-specific fault code(s) would point you directly at the problem component. I looked up the P1554 OBD2 code and I see a lot of vague, sometimes conflicting information, and that's just the BMW applications. At least four possible causes and solutions came up in a quick search; I'm sure an extensive one would yield more.

I did BMWs with a generic reader for a while, and it was often frustrating. Once you've used a manufacturer-specific scan tool you'll never go back.

In reply to 02Pilot :

i hear you.   any recommendations for a BMW-specific scan tool that won't break the bank?  i'm really dumb to anything beyond google and youtube for diagnostics.

AngryCorvair said:

In reply to 02Pilot :

i hear you.   any recommendations for a BMW-specific scan tool that won't break the bank?  i'm really dumb to anything beyond google and youtube for diagnostics.

I'm using this one, which is basically a Foxwell NT510 with the BMW/MINI and airbag software preloaded. I'm happy with it; the interface is a bit, um, traditional, but it gets the job done. You could also just buy the Foxwell and add the software you want (last I checked it was like $60 per package; I'm planning to add Mazda when my GF's Mazda3 falls out of warranty). You can also go with the Carly app, which a lot of people like but I haven't tried, or set up a laptop to run BMW's own INPA software (more complicated, obviously).