Brazing stainless to stainless?

Okey doke, I have to build an intake tube with two nipples (heh heh heh he said nipples) to a tube so I can connect a blowoff valve and idle air control. So how do I braze stainless to stainless? Will flux coated brass rod work? It's non polished 409 stainless if that helps. Educate this ignorant fool, please.

We use silver solder a lot. Including high pressure fuel lines.

Btw, I can't give an exact answer until jan 2.

We've been doing a ton of furnace brazing for stainless steel prototype heat and mass exchangers at work and the brazing vendor we work with uses a nickel alloy for that application.

I'm sure a brazing rod exists for it, or you could gas weld it.

Gas weld, not braze. Or, tig using the proper rod.

Tig usually works.

Anything that can be tigged, can be gas welded.

I've used silver solder with stainless before. It should work.

I've brazed it w/ silver in the past, but I TIG it anymore. No TIG? braze away.

If you are not concerned with appearance, stainless can be welded reasonably well with mild steel wire in a mig.

I can MIG it with mild steel wire, but one piece will be 16 mm ID .035 wall making it easy for my clumsy ass to spot overheat and blow through. Is there a specific flux for stainless with silver solder?

The problem with MIG and stainless isn't blowing through as much as how the metal seems to "grow" behind the weld. The first time I tried it, I got huge raised scars on the backside.

That was also the last time I tried it. I plan on making a downpipe for my 10v turbo conversion an I'll try this backpurging thing everyone seems to talk about.

Knurled wrote: The problem with MIG and stainless isn't blowing through as much as how the metal seems to "grow" behind the weld. The first time I tried it, I got huge raised scars on the backside.

Too much heat.

Yeah, you have to watch the heat. The problem with MIGing thin stuff on the edge is there just isn't a lot of metal to act as a heat sink to draw the initial welding heat away. That means as you 'stack the tacks' you have to work really slow and that means there's a sizeable chance of porosity, which is a bad thing in an intake because that's unmetered air. I might just MIG it into place then use Durabond or etc over that to make sure it's sealed. Of course that will look like ass.

I could just vent the BOV to atmosphere but I still have to get the IAC in there somehow and there's not enough room for a silicone tee, etc where all this crap has to go. Plus I am NOT a big fan of the whole 'PSSSSHHHHH' thing every time I get off the gas.

In reply to Curmudgeon:

TIG is probably the best bet if you need to control the heat for thinner sections.

Curmudgeon wrote: I could just vent the BOV to atmosphere but I still have to get the IAC in there somehow and there's not enough room for a silicone tee, etc where all this crap has to go. Plus I am NOT a big fan of the whole 'PSSSSHHHHH' thing every time I get off the gas.

So don't run one at all. They're only used because Japanese companies interested in making a completely unobtrusive driving experience wanted to damp down the turbo surge noise when you close the throttle.

On the other hand, this may also be something you're looking for. A friend had a stock XR4Ti, and the turbo giggling would make it past the noise filtering in his cell phone. (It probably didn't help that a stock one is sloooow and requires 7-8psi boost for anything)

I've found that in practice, it's not much quieter recirculating it anyways.

The BOV vented to atmosphere on the MX6 is FAR quieter (by probably a factor of 10) than the recirculated unit on the MSM.