Got a parts Miata and as a bonus it has a newer set of Koni's on it. Of course that would be too much good luck for me. Any thoughts on how to get the bolt out of the lower strut mount when it's flush w/ the control arm (thank you previous owner)?
Got a parts Miata and as a bonus it has a newer set of Koni's on it. Of course that would be too much good luck for me. Any thoughts on how to get the bolt out of the lower strut mount when it's flush w/ the control arm (thank you previous owner)?
May have to remove the strut and LCA as one unit, but you may be able to get a bolt extractor in there.
If not, sawzall. They're surprisingly useful on Miata suspensions.
I had a similar problem with my Miata. The captive bolts in the LCAs broke free and were just spinning. I ended up buying some used LCAs from Willy and replaced the whole thing when I did the suspension.
Cut the captive nut off the other side w/ an angle grinder + cutoff wheel. Drive bolt out w/ drift and hammer.
There probably isn't any clearance on either side between the metalastic bushing of the shock absorber and the boxed-in portion of the LCA.
I had to cut the lower-outer hub to rear LCA bolts on my Miata when doing urethane bushings recently as they were utterly seized. It took lots of heat, Aerokroil and a very solid setup in the big press to crack the stubs in the hubs loose.
+1 on the captive nut being broken loose. My solution was to use a angle grinder to cut a box just big enough to get a wrench in there to hold the nut while the impact did it's job. I cut from the bottom side of the LCA by the hole that's already there (i'm talking rears here). If done minimally there shouldn't be any strength loss.
This isn't the best photo but it gives you an idea.
motomoron wrote: Cut the captive nut off the other side w/ an angle grinder + cutoff wheel. Drive bolt out w/ drift and hammer.
Already done that and have been spraying and hitting with the BFH and the damn thing still won't budge. Tonight it's carbite drill bits to see if I can weaken the bolt enough to rip the thing out. Any other suggestions?
My rears went OK but I couldn't get this bolt out on my fronts. Ended up punting it to a local shop and paying for it. :(
Hey, at least you're not alone...
White_and_Nerdy wrote: . Ended up punting it to a local shop and paying for it. :( Hey, at least you're not alone...
Thought crossed my mind also, but the car doesn't have a motor.....
I've had reasonably good luck drilling the center out of the bolt and using a fluted extractor. A long enough drill and extension to the extractor might work. I had a similar problem when my tow loop got snapped off after being bump drafted.
I use these: http://www.drillspot.com/products/517906/westward_2rup9_spiral_flute_screw_extractor_set
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