usually a bad wire. check the wiringback to the main harness. Also check for crank end play. If the thrust washer disintegrated it'll allow the crank to walk enough to cause problems as well.
usually a bad wire. check the wiringback to the main harness. Also check for crank end play. If the thrust washer disintegrated it'll allow the crank to walk enough to cause problems as well.
grab the crank and yank. Then take a hammer handle and pop it back. If you feel more than 1/16" of play you have a problem!
Keerful. Many engines have the cam and crank sensor on the same circuit, dunno if the Hyundai is that way. Anyway, if it so happens that they are you could have a bad cam sensor instead yet still have a crank sensor code. BTDT, 3.7 and 4.7 Jeeps do it all the time. For that matter, if the cam has jumped a fang it could cause the same type thing.
^ Timing belt slippage would also cause those problems. If the belt is older, and stretched or id the tensioner has backed off. Our T-belt interval is 5yr, 60k miles.
So it's either too much crankshaft end play, or a bad wire.
So you now have both a new cam and crank sensor but still the same problem, i.e. a CAMSHAFT sensor code? Hmmm. A few things come to mind: like Bobzilla says, check for wiring or end play problems.
The cam and crank sensor run off of 5V reference so check for that. The other side, back to the PCM, about all you can do is disconnect the PCM and sensor connectors and check for harness continuity, you really should not try to jump across the wires at the sensors unless you have a logic probe. You will need a wiring diagram to make sure of what you are probing!
The other: I dunno how the Hyundai cam sensor is triggered but if it's a magnet then it could have come off. 3.8 GM's used to do that all the time. My 1997 Trooper has a magnet molded into the left hand cam pulley to trigger the cam sensor. Since your Hyundai is the same year it's possible it could use the same setup, so I'd check for a missing magnet. Easy enough to check.
I think I would, yes. Now if it's a Hall effect sensor that's a completely different critter! Those need no magnet, they just need to be in close proximity to metal.
Check the charging system carefully. I had one throw a crank position code with an intermittant engine stumble at 2500 rpm. Replaced the sensor and still had the problem. Before I traced the wire I noticed a slight whine in the alternator. I ignored it as the car was starting fine with no electrical symptoms. On a lark I had the alternator checked and found a bad diode. Replaced the alternator and the problem imediately vanished. This took place over about a 6 month time frame.
Ummm, possibly. Remember the 5V reference? If the alternator's making ~12v the PCM is stepping that down to 5v and that's proportional to input so it will vary a bit. If the alternator's making 16V, now the reference signal is higher as well. Never assume a new part is good! BTDT.
Stick a DVOM across the battery terminals with the engine running, if it's between 11 and 14 volts at ~2k RPM all should be well. Usually 14.2V is the high end with the engine doing 2K RPM or more. If it's way higher than 14.2, you could possibly have a bad alternator. I have seen alternators 'full field' and pump out enough voltage to burn up every bulb in the car!
The new alt could be putting out dirty power too. like an AC wave on top of the dc.
Yeah gotta agree that having the same problem with two alternators points to it being something else. We now come full circle to wiring and possibly a PCM.
You'll need to log in to post.
