Only reason Im leaning towards the rb is tbat I love the I6 design. Not super rational for engine choice but it is what it is. OTOH ill still have my ZX with the I6 so maybe the Z can have something different.
Only reason Im leaning towards the rb is tbat I love the I6 design. Not super rational for engine choice but it is what it is. OTOH ill still have my ZX with the I6 so maybe the Z can have something different.
Another motor for consideration is the 7mgte. I know they have the headgasket issue but it seems easily resolve-able.
Honestly RB25 seems best. You can get a complete one with ecu, harness, trans for less than 2k these days. And parts for them are all over.
Rb25det is up for consideration but they have known oiling issues.
The rb25 oiling issue really isn't a hard fix. I'd say its a lot easier than trying to fit a BMW engine.
Have a bit of a read thru this thread on rb25 oiling issues http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/
Keep the L28, but don't go with Rebello. Check with Datsun Spirit. They can hit your HP goals and not break your wallet.
In reply to jimbob_racing:
I thought aboht going through them but to get a 300hp engine is still several thousand dollars more than buying an engine swap. Granted their engine will just fall in but its pricey.
Fitzauto wrote: Rb25det is up for consideration but they have known oiling issues.
Find an engine with no known issues and swap that in 
Not a hard or expensive fix for their "known oiling issues".
Swank Force One wrote: GM Atlas.
^this. engines are readily available, 270 hp out of the box and from what ive seen they handle boost pretty well. also pretty unique.
In reply to edizzle89:
Manual options?
2wd transmission Colorado transmission is a direct bolt on. If you want more sporting gearing, the Solstice transmission with the Colorado bell is easy (you can use toyota W series trans too). The Solstice input shaft should be a proper length too.
Why are we debating this still? 1uzfe or keep the datto relic.
1uz has NO known issues, is NA power, and won't cost you 2,000$ every 35,000 miles for a new turbo. Plus parts are available in junkyards and napa everywhere. Try that with an RB... Try that with a s5429484729 or whatever it's called.
Fitzauto wrote: In reply to edizzle89: Manual options?
i didnt get that far haha but it bolts to a 4l60 so it may have a LS bolt pattern, or maybe a manual trans from a colorado with the I5?
Trackmouse wrote: Why are we debating this still? 1uzfe or keep the datto relic. 1uz has NO known issues, is NA power, and won't cost you 2,000$ every 35,000 miles for a new turbo. Plus parts are available in junkyards and napa everywhere. Try that with an RB... Try that with a s5429484729 or whatever it's called.
The 1uzfe is now in the top 3 for sure.
Id skip 1uz unless you got lots of money to dump into cams, itb or a full on turbo build. They are weak as piss in stock form..as stated earlier 218whp through a manual, thats miserable for a v8 that still doesnt have any torque.
The later gen 1uz with VVTi makes an honest 300hp.
I costed doing the swap to an e30, and it came out to just over $4k. How much built L-Series can you get for $4k?
S54 is still the better motor though.
In reply to mr2peak:
If I went with the 1uz it would be a later one. However for about 2k I can get an rb25. Seems cheap enough for me. Still wish I could get an s52 for that.
Rb would be loads of fun for not much money, id say run with that
In reply to chiodos:
Im leaning heavily in that direction. 2k gets me engine and tranny which is cheaper than can be done with anything but the 7mgte and thats a bit too old of a motor for my tastes. Plus the rb keeps it nissan.
Possibly silly question but what group or groups did you plan to run with? A motor swap beyond an L28 won't fit SCCA or likely vintage? Why a class does this throw the car into for wheel to wheel racing? Have you given thought to this; you have a car with a 90 inch wheelbase and semi narrow track, have driven a 250 hp car with similar dimensions? I tend to be the king of oversteer and even I admit this makes for a very busy car.....not that is anything wrong with it. I've just seen more than a few people up the horsepower on short wheelbase cars only to find they didn't enjoy them afterward.
I love motor swaps when you don't have to contend with a rule book but of late I've started to think less is more. The C-prod weight for a 240Z was 2018lbs and with 185 rwhp it would go well (no it won't have that stupid fast appeal). What it will be is easier on tires, brakes and driveline parts. It will also likely be 150-200 lbs lighter than the 300hp version. On my Datsun I've got a 80% race motor; I cleaned up the ports, used a semi mild race cam (pulls from 4k), had everything balanced and saved myself about $6000 over full race motor.
OR just say screw it and put in a 400 hp turbo thing..........
Tom
chiodos wrote: Id skip 1uz unless you got lots of money to dump into cams, itb or a full on turbo build. They are weak as piss in stock form..as stated earlier 218whp through a manual, thats miserable for a v8 that still doesnt have any torque.
Pffffffffffffffff.... Somebody's ill informed. Wanna post up a dyno sheet to back that statement? Your definition of "miserable" is terribly off. 
What kind of power do you consider "not miserable"? AND in stock form what engine do you suggest? Gotta pay to play man. I can't wait to hear what you come up with.
Tom1200 wrote: Possibly silly question but what group or groups did you plan to run with? A motor swap beyond an L28 won't fit SCCA or likely vintage? Why a class does this throw the car into for wheel to wheel racing? Have you given thought to this; you have a car with a 90 inch wheelbase and semi narrow track, have driven a 250 hp car with similar dimensions? I tend to be the king of oversteer and even I admit this makes for a very busy car.....not that is anything wrong with it. I've just seen more than a few people up the horsepower on short wheelbase cars only to find they didn't enjoy them afterward. I love motor swaps when you don't have to contend with a rule book but of late I've started to think less is more. The C-prod weight for a 240Z was 2018lbs and with 185 rwhp it would go well (no it won't have that stupid fast appeal). What it will be is easier on tires, brakes and driveline parts. It will also likely be 150-200 lbs lighter than the 300hp version. On my Datsun I've got a 80% race motor; I cleaned up the ports, used a semi mild race cam (pulls from 4k), had everything balanced and saved myself about $6000 over full race motor. OR just say screw it and put in a 400 hp turbo thing.......... Tom
I have given it some thought and the car will mostly be TT style events where classing is abit more open. If it was in wheel to wheel it would most likely be up against silhouette style cars I believe.
Trackmouse wrote:chiodos wrote: Id skip 1uz unless you got lots of money to dump into cams, itb or a full on turbo build. They are weak as piss in stock form..as stated earlier 218whp through a manual, thats miserable for a v8 that still doesnt have any torque.Pffffffffffffffff.... Somebody's ill informed. Wanna post up a dyno sheet to back that statement? Your definition of "miserable" is terribly off.
Narrowed it down to three choices: 1uzfe, rb25det or 7mgte.
@fitzauto, time trials are good venue for heavily modded cars. Mix and match parts to you're hearts content with out the worry of being thrown in with cars waaaay faster than yours.
Tom
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-S40SX-SILVIA-2-5L-S2-TURBO-ENGINE-AUTO-TRANS-ECU-JDM-RB25DET-/281524442249
do it, and build thread it, so that i might live vicariously through you.
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