If you were to operate a clutch with a button/trigger/lever/paddle, for speed and ergonomics, where would you want that button located?
On the shifter knob
On the steering wheel
On the steering column
If you were to operate a clutch with a button/trigger/lever/paddle, for speed and ergonomics, where would you want that button located?
On the shifter knob
On the steering wheel
On the steering column
If I could not operate it with my left foot I'd prefer it to be automatically applied when I pulled the up/down paddle mounted just behind the wheel or on a selector lever just next to the wheel so I don't have to take my hands off for more than a split second. Just like an SMG M3 or rally car.
My first instinct would be to put it on the shifter, but I'm not sure whether we have something wiredin our brain to need to engage the clutch with one limb, and shift with another. I presume you could get used to anything, as long as it is consistent.
Shift knob, so it's tied to the thing I need it for.
EDIT: I like GPS's answer better; I was answering what was asked in a blindly-literal sort of fashion...
The smart has it integrated into the shifter. Slap it up or down and the clutch is operated by the computer. No extra button.
But if I had to? On the shifter.
All of the above. Auto clutch paddle system if development in my garage was feasible, gearshift lever if paddles weren't feasible.
Like this:
It's kind of a hybrid - you still need to row the gears, but only two pedals - just replacing the clutch pedal with a paddle or button.
We had a paddle clutch on our old FSAE cars. The shifter was on the left (bike shifter mechanism is on the left, not because we are british or something) so the paddle was on the right side behind the wheel. It was pretty easy to use considering the clutch force was hand lever operated in the first place. Just not a lot of feathering resolution.
On the shifter, but I may want to replace the "knob" with some kind of pressure sensitive handle (clutch-by-wire with force feedback?) so I had a bit more control. It would best be placed really intuitively, so that I don't fumble for a tiny button or have to look at it, but impossible to bump and accidentally engage.
I also tend to grab the shifter from the top down rather than holding it like a pistol grip... maybe a pull-up lever on the front that I can grasp with my two middle fingers would work. I'm sure a lot of other drivers would prefer something completely different...
In reply to Jay:
Like this one maybe? I'm not sure what the small handle does, but this or something like it could operate the clutch, I would imagine.
Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking.
Jeep guys will some times use what looks like a bike clutch handle on a the gear shifter for the clutch operation. I haven't seen it done personally however.
JohnInKansas wrote: In reply to Jay: Like this one maybe? I'm not sure what the small handle does, but this or something like it could operate the clutch, I would imagine.
the small handle on that one is a reverse lockout...
old VW "sportamatics" used a vacuum switch on the shiftknob. Put your hand on the knob, you blocked the vacuum and the clutch would work
I'd have to try the shifter and steering column and see what works better. If it was purely a track car I'd put them on the column.
Update - made a mold of a shift knob and made a casting, then milled out a slot for a linear motion potentiometer. Next up drill out the bottom for the mount - will also add a second small channel for wiring:
On my school's FSAE car, the clutch is engaged when you move the shifter up or down. Moving the lever forward shifts up, backward shifts down and either way the lever is moved the clutch is engaged. So its automatically applied.
I joined FSAE this year though so I don't know a whole lot about last years car. Depending on the application though I might want the set up similar to the honda up there
gonna be tricky to slip on launch, I would do it away from where it could get hit during the run and use paddle shifters, get an ignition interrupt for going up through the gears, and learn how to blip down.
You be awright!!!
Audi went with a button on the knob. If the shift lever was Earth, and 0 longitude was pointing back, the button would have been maybe around Anchorage. (It's hard to tell)
Me, if I can't have a foot pedal for the clutch, I'd prefer a torque converter.
I have actually looked in to making a setup like this but put it on the shelf due to to many projects. I may dust it off some time in the future.
Since I was dealing with an electric activated ram that would actually operate the clutch it would have to be a switch. Thus I was thinking of placing it on the shift lever on the left side of the wheel. The issues I ran in to were dealing with fine control of the ram. I was either going to have to put some sort of delay in the release so you could coordinate the slippage against rpm at start up or just make it an on off switch and only use it for 2nd - 5th and keep the foot peddle for starting out.
The bad part about placing it on the wheel is if you need to clutch and shift while turning and the button ends up on the right side pushing it could be a problem as you would have to bring your left hand across your body to do it. Thus I was leaning towards putting it on the shifter Handel.
This should give proportional control to the air valve,(variable voltage) which has a 2ms reaction speed, so at least in my mind it will give me pretty fine control on launch. I'll know in the next day or two if it will work.
On track, I figure you should have the shifting done by turn in, so on the column wouldn't be bad. On the street, I notice using the clutch around corners more. Alternatively, a thumb activated button on the wheel could work or column mounted instead of wheel...I have a second voltage controller - I may rig up a couple more ways to do this and test what works best.
Did another bench test. Looks like it's working, but still hard to tell without the full resistance/weight of the clutch. it pushes out hard and quick - little slow on the return, but it's only the pressure of the MC return spring and a return spring in the air cylinder - maybe 20lbs instead of a couple hundred from the clutch. The alternative is that the air exhaust port on the valve is a restriction slowing it down.
By the time you put the slave and pressure plate in it should push back a good bit quicker. Looks good to me.
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