So I'm just thinking out loud here because I'm pretty disgusted with my car lately. I spent $600 on the tires in Jan plus a few little things to get it ready for this year's commuting (26k per year). Then I had to replace the driveshaft a few weeks ago for $550 but the rebuilt driveshaft's making a really buzzy ride above 60mph. A new driveshaft is $1k which is the next option. It already has the never ending steering wheel shimmy which has annoyed me every single day since day one. Looking ahead it will need another $500 worth of work (parts only) this summer which includes belts, hoses, waterpump. It's alo starting to leak oil now. So I'm trying to decide what to do, should I dump it while it's running or keep fixing things and up to what point? It's got 154k on it - in a way I'd love to see it go up to 300k just to brag about it but it doesn't seem practical :)
If I do sell it, what will I replace it with? I would need something that's a good freeway car i.e. large enough to be comfortable and safe yet still good on gas. This would be an Accord, Altima, Camry sort of a boring car - no older than 7 years. Or should I get a new small car like the Yaris, Sentra, Fit etc which will cost more money but should be pretty much maintenance free until 100k miles other than the oil changes - still a boring car, maybe not the Fit. I think a used car would make better financial sense and I could always drive my wife's '04 Accord and she can drive the Ridgeline which sits in the driveway mostly. Of course, she loves her Accord so it might not be as easy as it sounds.
So what would you guys do if you had a long (mostly highway) commute to put up with? The great thing about my 328i is it's just the right size, has plenty of fwy passing power, decent comfort and really good gas mileage for a 6cyl (28MPG) but it requires much more maintenance than a Honda/Mazda/Toyota etc and parts are expensive.
If the 328i is 'just right', try a few different flavors of the Subaru Legacy.
Did you buy this used? Sounds like it's been abused at some point.
What kind of budget would you put towards a new car?
You should get an Alfa.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/oddball-comparo-e36-m3-vs-alfa-gtv-6/19007/page1/
I'm only sorta kidding because of your 7 years requirement.
You would think it was abused but no. I bought it used from the original owner about 5 years ago with close to 100k on it. It was well kept and serviced by the dealer throughout in its previous life.
The steering shimmy was there when I test drove it, I thought it was just a warped rotor or an out of balance tire. Since then I've thrown every part at the problem and it never went away - lots of E36/E46s have this as I later came to find out.
In its defense the engine and trans are still solid I'm just annoyed at the fact that I have to deal with the vibrations, shimmys and expensive parts much more often than any other car I've owned.
RussellH wrote:
You would think it was abused but no. I bought it used from the original owner about 5 years ago with close to 100k on it. It was well kept and serviced by the dealer throughout in its previous life.
The steering shimmy was there when I test drove it, I thought it was just a warped rotor or an out of balance tire. Since then I've thrown every part at the problem and it never went away - lots of E36/E46s have this as I later came to find out.
In its defense the engine and trans are still solid I'm just annoyed at the fact that I have to deal with the vibrations, shimmys and expensive parts much more often than any other car I've owned.
Sell it. Get a Lexus SC300/SC400.
Doesn't meet the 7 year requirement, but if it's been well kept, it won't matter if your'e worried about a reliability issue.
They're comfy, they'll feel at least as powerful as the Bimmer, get similar gas mileage, and they're just plain cool.
Oh, and they're pretty reliable.
RussellH wrote:
The great thing about my 328i is it's just the right size, has plenty of fwy passing power, decent comfort and really good gas mileage for a 6cyl (28MPG) but it requires much more maintenance than a Honda/Mazda/Toyota etc and parts are expensive.
Disgusted? Seriously?
If you are on a tight budget, you have to know how to stretch your dollar. Locally, I'd have picked up used tires instead of new and saved $350. Replacing the drive shaft is unusual, but I would have paid $150 for one from a boneyard/ craigslist/ local BMW forum before buying a reman or new piece. Belts, hoses and waterpump are needed on any car with over 150K miles, but the job should be well under $500 diy. Oil is cheap, keep topping the car off unless the leak is serious. The wheel shimmy is irritating, but what steps have you taken to isolate the issue? It may be inexpensive to resolve.
Cliffs Notes: You've got a good car you like. It's getting older and requires maintenance - but so do Japanese cars. Buy used parts or buy from online vendors, then do the service yourself to save dough. Don't spend good money on issues you can live with.
I guess there's a reason "E36 M3" is a euphemism around here...
Problem is the long commute becomes a chore when the car doesn't feel right. The driveshaft is unusual for most cars but not in the BMW world. Heck I regard driveshafts and diffs as 'lifetime' parts but I've blown a LSD on it that decided to lop off the bolt heads and chew on them.
As for the steering wheel shimmy I've replaced just about everything: shocks/springs, hubs, rotors, pads, wheels, tires, tie rods, lower control arms, bushings etc etc. Some of these car are just possessed and I happen to own one.
As for used tires, even the new tires only last about 20-25k on these cars which for me means a new set every year and I'm not even running aggressive alignment.
I guess I'm pretty anal about cars so when they vibrate, shimmy and leak oil it bugs me to heck but at the end of the day I'll probably hang on to it for another year or so. I doubt I'll be happy with an Accord etc, they just don't drive the same and maybe I'm getting old but I'm done with "modding" a daily driver - that's what the track car is for.
The SC300/400 - never really peaked my interest but I could consider one. MazdaSpeed3 or a WRX is kinda on par with my expectations but something a little less boy racerish - maybe a TSX?
Front end shimmy can be a number of things. . . bearings, rotors, or tie rods = $40-100
Oil leak?? Possibles are Valve cover gasket = less than $100, Oil filter housing gasket = can't remember the $ amount, Oil Pan = cheap gasket, expensive to install (if taken to a shop).
Driveshaft vibration usually is guibo or center bearing (two piece drive shaft (possible trans mounts) = $60-120
Tires less than $400 for new decent tires. I'm partial to Kumho Escta SPTs (good stick and AWESOME in the rain).
Cooling system maintenance = $200-500 (depending on what you find)
All this stuff is diy . . . Every E36 I've purchased (or guided others to purchase), gets the cooling system maintenance done at a minimum.
RussellH wrote:
The SC300/400 - never really peaked my interest but I could consider one. MazdaSpeed3 or a WRX is kinda on par with my expectations but something a little less boy racerish - maybe a TSX?
Go drive one, i'd shoot for an SC400 if you want an auto, and track down an SC300 manual if you want a stick.
You want MS3 or WRX, but not as boy racerish? There is another alternative.
Mazdaspeed 6. 
If you're that disgusted, dump it and dump it fast. Cut your losses. My 1984 733 has never given me 1/4 of the problems
you describe and I've got 270,000 miles on mine.It had less than 100k when I bought it. Last set of tires(Bridgestone Turanzas)gave me 65k and still decent enough to use on something else. The only repairs(other than normal stuff) have been control arm bushings, replace the flywheel sensors and replace the intank fuel pump. From May until October, it's driven 700-800 miles a week and still delivers 25-27mpg highway. All I can say is you must have got a lemon.
Why in gods name would you want the Lexus SC400?
96DXCivic wrote:
Why in gods name would you want the Lexus SC400?
Driven one?
I honestly cannot think of one long haul commuter i would want more than that.
Strike_Zero wrote:
Front end shimmy can be a number of things. . . bearings, rotors, or tie rods = $40-100
Replaced all of those and more...bimmerforums has several 20+ page threads regarding this.
Oil leak?? Possibles are Valve cover gasket = less than $100, Oil filter housing gasket = can't remember the $ amount, Oil Pan = cheap gasket, expensive to install (if taken to a shop).
Powersteering hoses and Rear main seal in my case. I replaced it 54k ago when I replaced the clutch.
Driveshaft vibration usually is guibo or center bearing (two piece drive shaft (possible trans mounts) = $60-120
Yep, I'm on the second guibo and already replaced the CSB last year. There's a loud vibration under hard acceleration. After replacing the driveshaft the problem's fixed but now the whole car is buzzy above 60mph.
Tires less than $400 for new decent tires. I'm partial to Kumho Escta SPTs (good stick and AWESOME in the rain).
I had Ecsta MX, Ecsta AX and now Sumitomo HTRs. $400 for the tires, $80 for mount/balance and about $90 for alignment (I had too much rear toe out).
Cooling system maintenance = $200-500 (depending on what you find)
All this stuff is diy . . . Every E36 I've purchased (or guided others to purchase), gets the cooling system maintenance done at a minimum.
Yep, I do all my own work too and after 5 years of ownership I should be ready to take a master ASE exam now :D
Not just me...there are a few others who find the cost of maintenance ridiculously high:
http://www.dvatp.com/media/image/e36_cost_graph_large.jpg
Dave has a good site in general and like him I'll probably march lockstep into a E46 or a E90 next
In reply to RussellH:
WOW . . .I agree with minimac . . .you do have a lemon . . .
NONE of my E36s gave me that those types problems and the beat the crap outta mine.
I KNOW my Ti has been abused. It was even totalled before I bought it (and poorly repaired) and I do not have any of the problems you have in regards to vibration or shimmy... it is very odd
Ahhh, E36 character... My 328i had some similar stuff. Mild vibration under acceleration, I deferred the cooling system service and like clockwork the radiator cracked just over 100k. My air bag light was on. Rear wheel bearing and some undiagnosed screeching in reverse came up at the same time and I decided to move on.
Replaced it with a 2005 Legacy GT, the car that I had been pining over for about a year. Two things I miss from the BMW:
The power window controls next to the stick were brilliant. Subaru for who knows what reason put them in the drivers door in an awkward spot.
My BMW had the sport package. Those seats are magnificent.
Other than those two things, I haven't looked back. Gas mileage is going to be worse with a Subaru, so that may play into your decision. Maybe check out a Mazda 6? Nice cars that can be had for reasonable coin these days.
Mid-90's Legend 2-door sedan? Actually I like the early ones too and I've seen them do insane mileages, the problem with them now is they all seem to have done insane mileages and tin worm problems with Japanese cars of that era (and all other eras, now that I think about it...).
- steering shimmy == control arm bushings, ball joints or tie rods. All cheap.
- driveshaft balancing == $179, You did make sure the halves went back together EXACTLY in the same place right? Did you replace the center support bearing & guibo too?
I'd "help" you to dispose of it if you are truly disgusted.
I got 20k out of RE01Rs (hardly a long lasting tire) and they still had at LEAST 40% tread left when I sold the car.
BMW specs a fair bit of toe-in as OEM. I dialed that back to "near zero".
Shrug. If you don't like it, sell it.
Whenever I think of selling a car because of upcoming repairs, I remember the cost of just changing over (taxes/plating/registration) and the gamble of another used car....and usually keep the one I know, fix it, and enjoy another year or so.
I've heard that it's REALLY hard to get 28mpg from the SC300's and SC400's.
Nathan
njansenv wrote:
Whenever I think of selling a car because of upcoming repairs, I remember the cost of just changing over (taxes/plating/registration) and the gamble of another used car....and usually keep the one I know, fix it, and enjoy another year or so.
I've heard that it's REALLY hard to get 28mpg from the SC300's and SC400's.
Nathan
Exactly what I do...and that's why I'll probably hang on to it.
I drove it home today and the whole way kept thinking to myself "yeah the vibration is there and the shimmy's there too at certain speeds but it's got torque, good mileage, good comfort, it's paid for, the konis and H&Rs work well, I had the subframe reinforced, all new bushings etc a couple of years ago, the engine and trans are still solid just suck it up and drive it another 50k (2 years)"
So I got home and replaced the UUC red transmission mounts with the old OEM ones and instantly the car feels quieter (if a bit disconnected) - hopefully this will lessen some of that buzzy feeling above 60mph.
Nathan, what car did you buy after selling your E36?
I wonder... you mentioned replacing just about everything in the suspension... maybe you have some unknown damage to a spindle or bearing carrier?
