DIY throttle cable ends

The last thing I need to do to actually drive my Microsquirt project is to fab up a throttle cable.  Specifically, I need to put a new end on it.  After the obligatory browse through the YouTube files, I found plenty of vids showing how to do it, all basically showing the same thing - cut the cable, fray the last little bit, dip it in some flux, fashion a little pocket in which to melt solder and insert the cable end, light up the torch, get a nice molten pool of solder, remove the heat, insert the frayed-and-fluxed cable end, and let cool. 

I've got all that down.  What I haven't worked out yet is an effective way of getting the new cable end to release from the "mold", if you will.  I've found that it works better if you use aluminum to create the pocket, but even that has been inconsistent at best.  

So, is there a trick to this?  Spray the mold with WD-40 or something first before melting the solder in it?  Sticking the whole thing in the freezer for 4 hours?  

I have never successfully soldered a throttle cable.  They make ends with mechanical connections that i like.  

Patrick said:

I have never successfully soldered a throttle cable.  They make ends with mechanical connections that i like.  

yes. small barrels with allen screws. I've got some somewhere. Mountain bike brake cables?

54 cents on grainger:

It sounds like you're trying to form the entire end out of solder - besides the type with retaining screws shown above, tou can also get cable end barrels that solder on.  I imagine they come in different sizes, you may even be able to find something suitable at a local bike repair shop.

Try a motorcycle shop, bikes use skinnier cables :) I don't like the screw-on type, they can really jack up the cable if you ever want to remove them.

On my bicycles I've lightly soldered the ends just to keep them from fraying and not avoid having to use those chintzy little crimp on end caps. Not sure about making a large ball on the end. Are manufactured ends actually dipped in molten metal in a mold, or are the ends just smashed on?

freetors said:

On my bicycles I've lightly soldered the ends just to keep them from fraying and not avoid having to use those chintzy little crimp on end caps. Not sure about making a large ball on the end. Are manufactured ends actually dipped in molten metal in a mold, or are the ends just smashed on?

Usually manufactured ends with a hole and then cable is soldered through it for this application.

I have used wire rope from Home Depot, and they have the crush ends.

Supplies you'll need:

Old drill bits

Sharp drill bits

Propane/butane torch

Flux (got mine at a welding supply shop)

Lead/tin solder (For stained glass windows. Got mine at Hobby lobby. Any lead/tin ratio will work. Extremely low melting point)

Side cutters

File or rotary tool

1. Determine the size barrel you need. I figured out what size by sticking in old drill bits until I found the correct size.

2.Determine the length of the barrel. Mark the length on the smooth end of the old drill bit you found in the correct size.

3. Mark the center and drill the appropriate size hole for your cable.

4. Countersink one side of the hole.

5. Cut of end of the drill bit at your mark.

6. Smooth cut end if necessary.

7. Degrease end of cable.

8.Insert cable into the barrel with the end of the cable coming out of the countersunk side.

8. Unwind and fray the cable. 2-4mm is plenty.

9. Apply a dab of flux to the frayed cable end.

10. Pull frayed end back into the barrel, almost flush .

11. Heat barrel and cable with the torch. Move torch around so as not to overheat the cable.

12. Touch solder to the cable. You will see solder on the opposite side once it has wicked through. Repete with torch if nessesary.

13. Once cooled, smooth solder with your file or Rotary tool.

I did this on my motorcycle. I have over 4,000mi on these cables, including the front drum brake cable, with zero issues.

Appleseed said:

1. Determine the size barrel you need. I figured out what size by sticking in old drill bits until I found the correct size.

2.Determine the length of the barrel. Mark the length on the smooth end of the old drill bit you found in the correct size.

 

I'm doing basically exactly as you describe, except I have not been using a barrel.  I can see where that would help things - you have basically a self-contained container for the solder that doesn't have to be removed.  I'll have to do some experimentation with that. As a mtn biker, I probably have some suitable cable ends I could use for that.

My last effort before I started the thread worked except that I had to grind off my mold in order to get to the cable end, and after various mistakes, each of which resulted in the cable getting shorter by ~3/16", the resulting cable was too short.  Throttle showed 11.8% open at the end of my adjustment range. 

I hit them with the MIG.

I've turned a steel barrel to suit the hole size then drilled through the barrel with a drill that matches the cable diameter, and tigged them together.  So far, I haven't had any issues with them coming apart.

To cut the wire rope, I cut the cable slightly longer than desired, hold the cable in a vise (lightly) with about 3 inches free, put the free end in the chuck of a drill (make sure the drill will turn the way the cable it wound), then apply heat (propane torch) until the cable is red hot, and spin the drill.  This should both cut the cable and fuse the loose stands together.  Repeat for the other end, then attach the barrel.

I cut the cables with a sharp chisel and a block of steel.  Learned that from an aircraft mechanic.  They come out perfect every time.

Wanted to close the loop on this one.  Tentatively, I believe I have the issue solved.  I guess the real question is how long will the cable last, so only time will tell.  

Here's the final test sample before I made the actual cable that's now installed:

The basic process I used was to cut of the cable with proper cable cutters, give it a quick run-over with a Scotchbrite pad near the end, slightly fray the end (about 1/4"), and dip just the end into my tin of flux.

On the "mold" side, what I finally arrived at that worked well was to take a chunk of aluminium, drill a hole all the way through it, and then tap that hole up to about halfway.  Put some antisieze on a screw and and screw it in as far as the threads exist on the Al chunk.  Cut a few little bits of solder off and put them in the hole, and direct the torch flame at the protruding screw.  Once the solder melts, add a little more so the mold is basically filled.  Then insert the cable end, remove the torch, and as the solder starts to cool and solidify adjust the cable so it's more less centered in the solder pool. 

Once it's fully cooled and solid, remove the bolt, and use a punch/rod/smaller screw to tap the cable end out of its mold.  Sand/file/grind as necessary to fit whatever you're doing and make it look presentable (if you care).

What solder and flux are you guys using?  I have tried electrical solder and flux with absolutely no good results.  Definitely doing something wrong, but what?

I'm in the process of doing something similar but with a clutch cable.  Since the car this is for does not have the stock trans I am using a cable from the car the trans came out of. Well the cable is new but you get it.  I have decided to cut off the clevis that one end has and install a ball end as it just works better.

I purchased a steel ball, 3/8 in dia., I heated it up to red hot take the temper out and will then  drill through  it for the cable. Once the cable is inserted in the through hole  ball I'll tig weld the end of the cable to the ball.

93gsxturbo said:

What solder and flux are you guys using?  I have tried electrical solder and flux with absolutely no good results.  Definitely doing something wrong, but what?

Flux from a welding supply shop. I think for brazzing.

Solder for stained glass windows. Still has traditional lead/tin in it. Got mine at Hobby Lobby. 67% lead, 23% tin is the one I used.

93gsxturbo said:

What solder and flux are you guys using?  I have tried electrical solder and flux with absolutely no good results.  Definitely doing something wrong, but what?

If the cable has been in use it's probably full of oil, dirt and who knows what...you have to get it really, really, really clean for the solder to work.

I used muriadic acid (HCl) pool cleaner and washedit off with distilled water. Let the end bubble in a cap of acid for 10 seconds or so, the wash with water.

I make brake clutch and a few throttle cables for bikes and dwarf cars. the best flux is Oatey flux #30106

It works great and cleans up easy and good never get green cables down the road like i would with paste flux.

Oatey flux

44

Resurrecting an old thread- I'm trying to make a throttle cable that requires a threaded end- are these just crimped onto the cable?

yes they are. You need one of these cheap hydraulic crimpers to do it

It seems like if I drilled a hole in the side near the base of the cable hole, used a pick to birds nest the cable, and soldered, it would work? But for $40 it's probably worth just doing it right. 

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

You probably could stick solder in the cable end, heat the cable, heat the end until the solder melts, stick them together?

I used to solder lugs onto battery cables this way.  Key to success is preheating the cable, so the solder does not freeze on contact.

Trent said:

yes they are. You need one of these cheap hydraulic crimpers to do it

 

 

Amen.

I bough one as a battery terminal crimper and have found a multitude of uses since.