E30 Helpppp

First things first. Im new. This is my first post on this forum.

I just bought myt first BMW. 1988 325 coupe. I bought it from the original owner with 250,000k and in amazing shape (from what i can tell)

The car had sat for 4 years in the back of his yard, so when i had got there, its was covered in mold and dirt and mice nests everywhere.

After a quick cleaning, and lubing up the throttle linkage, we decided to try to start it.

With out paying much attention, i touched the jumper box onto the terminals backwards. Seriously, just a touch.

After hooking it up correctly, the car fired right up. But it wont continue to run with out the jumper box ( not charging) With the key on, engine off i see no battery light in the cluster. I immediatly pulled the cluster and switched the bulb with a known good one. Still nothing. No light, no charging.

So i had to leave the car at the original owners house. Im going back there today with a new battery and a fully charged jump box to drive it home on battery power.

2 questions.

Can i run a 12v energizing wire to the "d" terminal on the alternator to try to energize it? Kind of by passing the battery light?

any one have any other tips as to why this car wont charge?

PICS!!!!

And the original title with 54!!!!!!!! miles, lol

Start with a fresh battery.
Suspect too that the alternator may working.

Sitting for 4 yeasr and 250k NEast miles, it may not be wise to try driving it home anyway. I would want to get underneath and inspect brake lines before much of a drive.

BMW's run off the battery and the alt just charges it so if it is dead-dead and completely incapable of taking any charge whatsoever they don't stay running - a fresh batt will fix you right up.

If it isn't charging at all either - the v-reg is a module on the alt that is replaceable pretty easily so before you plunk down large coin for the whole unit... check that. IIRC they are around $70.

Don't go too far before you replace the timing belt. If it's dry rotted or had a lot of miles when it was parked you are playing with a time bomb. This is one very good reason to tow it home or replace it in his driveway.

As stated above, battery seems to be the likely culprit. You can charge it all you want but if the battery is kaput, you're not going anywhere since it won't hold the charge. Try the battery out of whatever car you drove there to test the theory, if you desire.

Also as stated above, I wouldn't drive a car home that's been sitting for so long unless you are going a VERY short distance on VERY light-traffic roads. Just rent a dolly or something and tow it back. Old brake lines, belts, and other equipment may be ok when the car is just sitting there, but applying road-driving forces to them can cause failure.

If you have AAA, clean it up a bit so it doesn't look quite so much like a car that's been sitting for 4 years, get it a few hundred yards from his driveway then call for a tow.

Looks like a good start otherwise.

update!!!!

tried to scam AAA to tow it with no registration and it was a No Go. So i went with my original plan of bring a new battery and charged jumper box.

Made it home. Killed the battery mid-way, switched to the jumper, witch got me home. On the way, i stopped at the parts store for a new alternator and oil change.Get it home, change the alternator, and BAM, battery light works, and system charges.

Ive read that a bad regulator could cause a no-light condition, and i couldnt think of how, but it was definetly the problem.

the re-manufactured alternator was 88$ and the to buy JUST the V-regulator was over 100$

The 88$ re-man came with a new regulator. lol.

Car had a pretty good skip on the way home. so a tune up is in order for sure.

Is there a good faq area for the t-belt/tune up/ other maintence write ups?

may be overkill but looking at e30tech.com can probably get you started pretty well. they have a faq&diy sticky forum.

The timing belt is slightly awkward working quarters because of the reverse hood opening but it's very much a straightforward install. A high quality timing belt kit ( I suggest Continental) will include detailed step-by step instructions and a new timing belt tensioner pulley.

Do buy a new water pump, do buy new V-belts. Special tools required: 32mm thin wrench and a fan clutch holder tool.

Buy only Bosh ignition cap/rotor and high quality wires as needed*, cheap aftermarket ignition components cause all kinds of problems. Do buy basic NGK or Bosch plugs. Do not buy platinum+4 plugs and the like as they will cause missfires.

*M20 wire sets are frightfully expensive last I checked, do them as a last resort.

Yeah... The timing belt isn't bad, but a fiddly job. When I had to do it, I was pulling the rocker shafts and had to remove the hood. To be honest, the hood goes off/on so easily that I'd remove it even if all I was doing was a timing belt. Just makes everything easier to get to.

Taking the hood off is as easy as disconnecting the washer hose and unbolting the six hinge bolts. I take mine off all the time. One person can do it pretty easily as long as you have long arms :)

Front hinged hoods are nice that way. The Volvo 1800 is similarly easy.

I was thinking of taking the hood to do it.

So looks like ill start with that, a set of plugs and some new trans/diff fluids.

Should be fun.

tonight after work i start the restoration of the paint. Ill keep you guys posted with pics!!!!

definitly take the hood off. It makes the job much easier. The last time I did one was about 12 years ago. replace water pump, tensioner and belts. Run some techron through the tank as well.

Chris

You may want to take the image of the Title down. I am not sure want could be come of it but a nigerian scammer or a car thief could some how copy it and claim title to your car.

Otherwise nice looking car. Some basic maintenance and you should have a winner!!!

Had a cheap E30 for awhile, one of the best things you can do for yourself is to go through with some sandpaper, files, and dielectric grease and just start cleaning electrical connections. Got a lot of things working again that way. (windows, lights, idle air control, etc)

Get yourself a bently repair manual for it, it is well worth the $30-$40ish. MUCH better than your typical haynes or chiltons, it has good troubleshooting sections.

Check your grounds, go ahead and clean them. (as I said, dielectric grease is your friend)

Funny u bring up grounds because my brake lights are not working and i suspect a faulty ground.

So looks like i know where to start.

Car needs alot of going threw to make it nice again, but im not scared, im actually excited to reaurect this car from its grave.

I noticed the diff is leaking. Didnt look to far into as of now becuase there are much more pressing issues that need attention.

Thanks for all the tips, keep them coming!!!!

Awesome. My rear lid only has 325 on it. No letter after words.

I was digging around fleebay for cheap parts and found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-325i-325is-325ix-Complete-Tune-Up-Kit-NEW-/120315715037?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c03601ddd&vxp=mtr

Worth the money?

Also, my "check" light blinks from time to time. I dont know what to check, lol.

And my brake lights arnt working. My "brake light" is on above the rear view mirror also. Would a faulty brake switch on the pedal cuase this? The running lights all work as they should.

irish44j wrote: Taking the hood off is as easy as disconnecting the washer hose and unbolting the six hinge bolts. I take mine off all the time. One person can do it pretty easily as long as you have long arms :)

I'm only 5'8" and could still manage it by myself as well.

OP, LOVE the color. Good luck with getting her up to snuff.

thanks man. Im really starting to fall in love with it. took it on a quick "mayden" voyage today after cleaning the spark plugs.

Ran good. The skip is now intermittent. I found it to be the cylinder second away from the firewall. I assume number 5. or 2. either way, im glad it isnt a dead cylinder.

Didnt wanna drive it too much on the old tbelt though, but drove it just enough to test some things, and burn off all the water from the super soak i gave her.

By the timing belt kit, rotor/plugs, oil pressure switch (will cause a nasty leak and they are cheap/easy to replace).........as mentioned, start cleaning the contacts.......that's likely the problem with the brake lights and that is check causes the "CHECK" to come on from the overhead panel.