E30 Shifter and Transmission removal

Hey all,

I know I should have a manual. You know what though, guys who buy $450 E30s on a whim, don't always get a chance to get the same sort of deal on a manual.

Anyway, I'm climbing around underneath my newly-acquired '85 325e and I can't quite figure out a couple of things.

1st, how do I get the shifter off? I haven't figured out how to (if I even need to) get the console off. Then, from underneath, I can't see how to get the shifter off down there...again, if I even need to.

2nd. I got three nuts off the guibo coupler, but I'm not sure if I need to get the other three bolts/nuts loose (I can't see bolt heads or nuts on the front side of the quibo...yet). Or can I pop the driveshaft loose with only three bolts/nuts being taken off?

It looks like the transmission (5 speed, btw) will drop without dropping the exhaust...but I could be wrong there since I don't quite know yet what all has to happen to get the transmission out.

This is all necessitated by a bad clutch. I'm trying to drop the trans so I can get the clutch replaced. Any help is appreciated. I'm just sort of muddling through at the moment (and not getting very far).

Next stop is to get some "inverted torx" sockets for the bellhousing.

Thanks!
Clem

gm used inverted torx sockets for some things, like seat rail to floor. i have always found an equivalent 6 point socket to fit snugly.

Do buy the correct torx sockets, those bellhousing bolts may be tight as hell.

The shifter carrier is attached to the transmission with a pin inserted from the drivers side, it's a pain in the ass to remove.

You can get away with just doing three guibo bolts, it may take some wiggling

Steps for transmission removal:

• remove exhaust
• remove transmission bracket completely - this makes unbolting the driveshaft easier
• unbolt clutch slave cyl
• unbolt driveshaft from transmission, unbolt center support bearing, swing driveshaft to one side and support
• remove shift link, remove shifter carrier pin from transmission, curse at pin design
• remove torx bolts from bellhousing, starter bolts have nuts, enjoy reaching those
• don't forget the 10mm bolt on the passenger side of the trans/engine separator shield

the shifter carrier pin ansonivan is talking about is a pin with a clip on the side. it goes in from the drivers side and then rotates until the clip latches onto a chunk of transmission casting. the way i always got them off was using a prybar with a really nice square edge and prying/leveraging the clip off the housing, then it just rotates and pulls out, no need to drop the shifter assembly.

if you cant figure that out you could also pop the shifter boot up, disconnect the reverse wire clip, and push out the big rubber shifter grommet from the body, then remove the carrier's rear bushing from under the tunnel... but its really a lot easier to just figure out that pin on the trans.

here's a couple pics of the clip

'85 eta propably has the sheetmetal shift carrier. I've never worked on one of those, so I don't have any advice.

yea thats true, if so it just unbolts

Thanks folks! That's a real help.

I wasn't sure if the exhaust needed to be dropped, but last night I hosed down the rustybolts on the exhaust with PBlaster, so it should be doing its magic right now.

Thanks again,
Clem

realOEM.com . fill the dialog boxes with your model and year. Check out the pertinent diagrams . They're usually good but not the absolute gospel.

m

If you don't have one already, go out and get a Bentley e30 repair manual. They're indispensable for working on these cars.

Amazon is one source, but you can find them elsewhere new or used: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-E30-Service-Manual-1984-1990/dp/0837603250

OK...like I said, if I had a manual, I probably wouldn't need to ask for pointers.

But I don't.

So I did.

Thanks for the helpful replies and photos...again!
Clem

Those photos are not applicable. Your car has a different style shift carrier.

Yeah...after looking at the realoem link and my memory...my car has the stamped steel shift carrier thing.

however, the photos and most of the rest of the info here have been great!

That clip is universally referred to in the e36 world as "The Bitch Clip" I drove mine off in pieces since I had new ones to reinstall the swanky new short shifter with. Getting the new ones back on? Holy crap. After a half hour and actual pain I made a long rod with a hooked end (5/16" steel rod, oxy-acetylene, hammer, anvil, grinder) which I put a slide hammer weight on. One whack - installed.

Regarding internal Torx sockets: Gotta have 'em. No other way, no how. e36 rod bolts use 'em too.

Ok...that brings up a question.

Anybody know specifically what sizes of torx sockets I need? I've NEVER had a need for these before. If I need a set for this car, I'll buy a set. however, if these are the ohly fasteners on the car with a need, then I'll get the two (or is it three?) sizes I need and keep it simple (unless that costs more than a set, which it very well may).

Thanks,
Clem

i got a cheap set years ago at autozone for around $15 with e8, e10, e12, and e14 that covers almost everything but some head bolts (which sometimes need their own extra long and narrow sockets anyway).

i seem to remember some bellhousings/starters using 3 sizes.

Suprised to hear that clip gives so many people problems. I found it quite easy to R&R just got to get a semi long flathead screwdriver under it and "prise" up. Now that cylindrical bushing at the rear of the carier that snaps into the transmission tunnel that thing is a pitA!

The driveshaft on the E36 has a slip joint that allows you to pry it back and drop it with only 3 guibo bolts removed, it barely clears but it does.

Ah... the bitch clip... add a damper around the flex coupler and accessing it is impossible. The shifter alone in an E30 makes me want to sell the car. Horrible.

So...there are two plastic lines running down onto the bellhousing and held in by one allen-head screw each. I got the screw out, but don't want to break anything pulling the plastic housing out of the bellhousing.

First off...is that all I have to do? Pull it straight out?

Second...what is it for? (I'll admit, I can surely figure this out by looking at where the lines go...but I haven't yet).

Thanks!
Clem

that's the crank position sensor(s) and yea they just pull straight out, i usually got em out with a little pb and twisting it slightly. they get full of crap and a little sticky.

I believe pelicanparts has an r&r writeup for the e30 shifter...

So...a little update with another question.

I've got the transmission out of the car. I've got my parts on order (clutch is in and hopefully shifter bushings and pilot bearing and assorted other stuff should arrive today or by monday).

When I got the transmission out, it became apparent that the reason there was gear oil everywhere (previous owner decided he wanted gear oil instead of the specified ATF) is because the rear seal is leaking...at least that's my forensic theory.

So...the manual (thanks 16vCorey!) says I need to use a special tool to remove the seal. I'm hoping that either the autoparts store will rent me one, or someone here will tell me I don't really need a special tool and I can get it out with some combination of regular tools (like screw drivers, hammers, and oscilloscopes, and the like).

Has anyone done this?

Thanks!
Clem

so long as you get the output flange nut or bolt off and the flange pulls off (ive had some come off like butter others fight hard), i dont remember the seal being any different than any modern type seal. the tool its referring to is probably a hook shaped 'seal remover tool' that does make it easy. if you dont have it theyre cheap at sears or wherever. looks like this:

ive used largeish flat head screwdrivers too, just be careful not to scratch the trans housing or it could leak. though thats true with either.

putting it back in it will either be pushed in till it seats or knock it back in to the depth the old one was located.

Thanks Wilberemthree.

I hadn't looked closely at the output side of the transmission before posting (I don't get to where the car is often)...and was thinking a shaft would be in the way. What you're saying makes sense...I was thinking the shaft would be in the way...but I think I catch your drift.

Cool...that's good to hear and takes some stress off my mind.

Clem

Just wanted to bring this one to the top.

I let this project stall for a year. Mainly because of apathy and the fact that I had to mail order a couple parts, make a special tool, etc.

The car is almost all put back together now. I've got the shifter rebuilt, the clutch replaced and transmission installed (with new rear and shifter rod seals), the damper around the Guibo removed, the clutch master cylinder replaced, and the exhaust and driveshaft bolted back together.

I just need to go over my bolts one more time, bleed the clutch, install the intake boot (it was torn when I bought the car so I ordered a replacement when I got the clutch and shifter stuff), and finish filling the transmisison with oil (I bought a pump from harbor freight because it sucks doing it by gravity in sub-freezing temperatures...gear oil moves SLOW).

Then...I hope...I'll have a decently fun little beater as one in my lineup of beaters. When you drive beaters, you need them in plural.

Clem

Now that a year and a half has passed since I installed my Z3 shifter set-up in my E30, I get to rip it out again this Spring and install the UUC set-up I bought.