Having now had 7 cars spanning three generations of BMW 3 Series, the E36 may be my favorite. I agree with everybody that said cooling system and engine/trans mounts. Also don't forget the oil pump nut - I know it's an M3 issue, I would expect the same of the other cars.
Other than that, the story when buying any BMW is pretty much the same. For all their brilliance in creating a world-class driving car that can fit four people, BMW never really fixes the chronic issues: their cooling systems are always suspect and bushings wear faster (or the wear is more noticeable) than in other cars. The upshot is it's all stuff (at least on the E30 and E36) that you can do with some jackstands and $100 worth of tools from Sears. It's also stuff that, at least in the case of bushings and engine/trans mounts, will return such a huge driving improvement that it'll make you feel good about the money you spent.
As for the 328i, I'd make sure it's worth your while vs. spending a couple grand more and getting an M3. My 97 M3 was $7,300 with 99k miles on the odo. The PPO came back with $3k+ in "necessary" work, but really it's about $600 in parts (mainly the stuff listed above) that any 3 Series with 100k miles would need.
Joshua wrote:
The 328is had the factory LSD, with better shocks it can be lapping with M3's at the track, I've seen it done. The 1995 325is was the only year that didn't get a LSD with the sport package, not sure why they chose to do that. It was weird.
Where I live, beat e36 m3s go for $4500-$8000 (Farfenricers?). You have to be lucky or approach $10k for a clean one with decent miles. 328i's in comparable condition go for 2-3 thousand less. hmmmm.
bludroptop wrote:
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:
bludroptop wrote:
328i/is cars also had a different rear end ratio 2.93 vs 3.15
I forgot about that - my '97 did indeed come with a 2.93 open diff. I put a 3.23 LSD out of a 97 M3 in there. (all 96+ M3s had 3.23 instead of 3.15).
Clarification - the 3.15 slip was the optional diff on the 325i/is from 92 until early 96. The 3.23 was the M3 ratio. Automatic cars had different ratios, but I never paid much attention.
Automatic M3s got a 3.38 LSD which is a spectacular ratio upgrade for any of the 6 cyl E36 cars.
As much as I would like to have an m3, I'm in college so my budget is small and just what I I got for selling my 4Runner for, and I'm engaged now so an m3 will have to wait for a little while.
One day though!
Local 328 ad on cl: http://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/2544155217.html
"1996 328 auto with 169k on it with many new parts ,the tires are in great shape and the brakes are newer their was a valve job just completed. the car doesn't leak oil or trans fluid it runs very strong and handles like a dream. Now the bad stuff driving it the other day and the fan came apart and a peace puncher ed the radiator and it over heated may need head gasket now. The car ran very strong and has great power but now it need some work so it is priced to sell."
Why did they do a valve job??
And on a BMW aluminum head, overheating is rarely as simple as just a new head gasket.
Good candidate to make a 332is
true.. that long I6 head LOVES to warp when exposed to high heat. The disadvantage of such a long aluminum casting
I got my E36 M3 for $8k with 63k miles on it. Cooling system already complete, and it looked like you could eat off the engine- surely just a nice detail job, but wow. There were a few small dings and some minor clear peeling, but it was in excellent shape. Sold it later for $10.5 after doing about $1500 in maintenance and upgrades (plastic undertray to aluminum, pass window regulator, drivers door seal, etc.).
Great car, and deals can be had. I'd rather get it "done" as in M3 than do all the extra work to make a 328 into one. That said, finding four door manual M3's is needle/haystack work.
Since you're in college, on a budget, coming from Toyota ownership, have a fiance/wife to answer to and aren't real familiar with the cars...
That low purchase price is the cover charge to get in the door and doesn't reflect the cost of ownership. BMWs make people a little delusional about how much care and feeding they really need compared to a normal car. Parts aren't that expensive, but they do have some weak spots that require frequent attention and that can add up. The suspension bits are relatively lightweight and need to be refreshed completely every 80K miles or so. They've got more electronics than they need. The interiors aren't particularly durable. The cooling systems are rotten. Oh, and because they're so berkeleying fantastic when everything is working, problems really stand out. You'll feel the need to maintain them to a higher standard than you otherwise might.
Already said up thread, but do not buy a BMW if you're not doing your own maintenance and are on a budget. Servicing a BMW at a shop will cost than a lease on a new car if your goal is to keep it in good shape. You can keep on on the road for less, but it's not going to drive right and it's going to fall apart around you.
Any BMW is going to need all the rubber wear and shock absorbers replaced. Parts aren't horrible and you don't have to do it all at once. $400 at the front suspension and and about the same at the rear. $200 for motor, trans mounts and a rebuild of the shift linkage. $500-$800 for shocks and mounts. So figure $1500+ to get it to really handle right. Add in another few hundred if you plan to do the structural reinforcements the M3 got. Plus the the cooling system stuff. And if it needs all that, there will be a few more things in need of attention. Delaminating door cards and headliners, bad fluids, cheap brake pads, electrical gremlins, etc. So that puts you at more like $2K in parts to get an cleanish E36 up to a solid, reliable baseline.
Non-enthusiasts don't bother with that stuff, because it's not required if you don't care that the car is a pile of junk. At most shops the labor and parts markup make it insanely expensive to stay on top of those things. Factor all this into the decision not to just go out and spend the money up front on a super clean car owned by someone who knows what they're doing... or just skip the BMW and get a Miata.
All that said, when everything is working properly there isn't anything that feels like a better overall package. They're incredibly well rounded cars.
exactly;.. it is the shop labour that gives BMW the "break my wallet" reputation. I actually found some parts cheaper for my Ti than for my old Hyundai
Teh E36 M3 wrote:
Great car, and deals can be had. I'd rather get it "done" as in M3 than do all the extra work to make a 328 into one.
One disadvantage of the E36 M3 is that it is not not classed competitively by the SCCA in Solo. It doesn't help that the 325/328 are fairly competitive in classes the M3 would probably fit in. 25% extra power just isn't that beneficial.
I would like an M3 (or a 1994 325is M-Technic), but it also doesn't take much to make a cheap 325i faster than a stock M3.
Parts costs and availability is actually a big advantage for the E36. Aftermarket parts are very inexpensive. I've often found them often be cheaper than Saturn parts. BMWCCA membership gives a decent discount at many BMW dealers.
I would be doing my own maintence, everything but the most complex projects, or requiring tools/machinery I cant get a hold of or borrow. I have owned an e30, I know how BMWs can be, and just because I'm in college doesn't mean I don't have the mechanically know how. If you went to college anywhere away from home, you would know a Miata is the worst idea for a college student, I've moved 3 times in the past 4 years and I am constantly taking large objects/furniture/bikes back and forth different places. Yes I have driven one and auto crossed one, they are amazing little cars, but as a primary DD they are lacking.
