I posted this on Bimmerfest but I figured I'll cross shop for advice here since you all are usually super helpful:
I've seen a bunch of info on early '92 vs. later '92 E36 suspension. Some of has been confusing to me. From what I've gathered the early suspension style has the sway bar attached at the strut while with the later style the sway bar is linked at the control arm and there are some differences with the front strut mounts.
I'd like to see if I can get some clarification before I start ordering parts.
I looked up the VIN and my car (318i) was built 04/1992. That would mean it has the early suspension, correct? But the sway bar is definitely linked to the control arm as seen in this crappy phone pic.
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My big question: Is that because the suspension on the 4 cylinder model is different from the 6 cylinder cars? I'm thinking Bilsteins (if the budget allows) and at least Pelican and Turner Motorsport have them listed for both suspension styles. I just want to make sure I order the right parts. I'm new to BMW stuff so any info is helpful.
Thanks
You familiar with the online parts catalog drawings on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select? (Go into the "Classic" catalog)
Don't know the answer myself, but the drawings there may help you confirm things one way or the other/
Only the M3 has the swaybar attached to the strut I believe. It provides a higher rate out of the same thickness bar.
Check realoem.com just to be sure.
I had a 91 build date 92 that had the sway bar to the shock like the later M3 did. When i replaced my lower control arms, they had accommodations for the mount in the arm. So control arms are the same. IIRC the cut of was 10/91 or 2/92 for the shock mount. There was a couple of other differences on the first 6 months cars.
I also purchased the heavy duty Bilsteins and installed them on factory springs. The only difference in the shocks is there is a mounting tab for the links. Technically, you could swap between the 2 relatively easily. I believe the bar is the same, shock mount just uses longer links.
What you have does not really matter because going from 318 to M3 to track car is either a direct bolt on for some $ or a DIY for less $.
What are your goals for the car? Sporty jaunts in the country? auto-x? Track days? What do you want dictates what advice I'd give here.
I was also thinking they used different spring diameters on the early cars as well.
In reply to Giant Purple Snorklewacker:
My immediate goal is to replace the worn out broke suspension with not worn out and maybe upgraded suspension. Goal for the car is to have a fun every day commuter that might see a track or autocross a couple times a year. Less $ is ideal.
I have a late E36 and the sway bar endlink location is the same as yours. The cheapest route is all stock suspension components, I believe. However, Tuner Motorsports has Bilstein shocks and struts available for about $580; You can't beat that price for performance shocks.
I had a 2/92 build 318i and the sway bar mounted to the control arms and not to the strut tubes. The early struts are unique and hard to find. The top of the shaft is different. You can't interchange upper perches. I went to LKQ to get the pieces to update to the way more common later (mid-92 and up) struts.
FYI, I love realoem for all kinds of things. But be aware, some times the illustrations are generic, and don't reflect certain variations within a particular model from year to year.
In reply to Karacticus:
I was not aware of that resource. Looks helpful, thanks!
In reply to BlueInGreen44:
What I would do in that case is look for a set of slightly stiffer springs, do a cut-n-gut on the struts with Koni SA damper inserts and threaded collars to adjust height. Find worn out M3 parts and gut them, then you get the relocation of the sway mount with the deal. But, it's easy enough to weld a tab on while gutting the stock ones.
Find a set of 400 2.5" x 5" tall springs for the front and a set of 550lb for the rear. That is a nice sporty but street complaint set of values for this car. Whatever the rate you go with, keep approx 150 lbs/in between front and rear. If you use 4" or 5" height springs out back you need an adjustable perch to raise it up a bit.
Then, get a discarded M3 front sway bar or even larger aftermarket one. Leave the stock softer one out back.
Replace all rubber with poly or nylon. AKG has the stuff. Treehouse eyeball front LCABs.
In the rear - replace all the worn balljoints and bushings with the M3 ball joint part (4 of them). It really tightens things up.
Make or buy some adjustable camber arms for the rear.
Get some camber plates for the front.
Set it up zero toe in front, a wee bit of toe in at the back... and for the street - use -2.7 camber front, -1.5 rear. For the track go to -3.2,-2.3.
Rake is very important to the way these things handle. Don't just slam it down - I'll find my setup sheet and give you the F/R rake and the lowest you can drop it before the front roll center get fubar. You won't want to be that low on the street anyway.
Find 4 rear wheels (17x8.5) from an M3 and shod them with sporty 245/40/17s.
In reply to Giant Purple Snorklewacker:
Thanks for taking the time to write all that up. This noob appreciates your sharing of expertise.
Well, one of the old front struts started blowing out so priority shifted to fixing it quickly so I can get to work. Tire Rack had a (really good) special price on the set of orange Konis with matched sporty springs. That + free shipping=winning.
I've ordered that and a kit with all the parts to mount the later style struts. That'll do it for now until I can get into the bushings and rest of the suspension. At that point I'll definitely be taking from GPS's suggestions. Thanks for the help everyone.
For my own information, the only difference between the M3 front strut housing and the non-M3 housing is the bracket for the front sway bar link?
The reason I ask is I have an engine swapped 1993 318is that I'd like to stiffen up the front spring rates on and would rather not have to go and buy complete replacement housings.
I'd be happy cutting and drilling to fit Koni inserts in the non-M3 housings I have.
I've looked on the net but haven't found anything to give me the warm and fuzzies on going this route.
Yes... I am fairly sure (on the housing) the difference is the sway bar mount. Someone else on here can probably give you an answer more certain than "fairly sure."
I'm in identical predicament with my 92 325is built 4/92. I would like to get Amazon coilovers maXpeedingrods for BMW E36 Coilovers, Adjustable Shock Suspension for BMW 3 Series E36 318i 318is 318ic 323i 323ic 323is 328i 328is 328ic M3 (1992-1999) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LCUDJAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7Z7YQVE5GZCXKJFC5AAZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
but not sure what's involved. I don't believe I need to deal with sway mounting location as it is non M3 model but not sure if I need anything else to fit the strut into tower location. I have seen some kits advertised at understeer.com but from the pictures the appear to be mounting plate with bushing to hold the spring. Since I'm not looking to replace with past 6/92 oem replacement strut, what sort of consideration should i take with mounting above mentioned kit. We are not looking to track the car so it's mainly daily driver.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
thank you,
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