Ok, I'm rebuilding my first engine, it's a mustang straight six. I want to do as much as humanly possible as I can do in my garage. I plan to build a motor for my Volvo after this and I'm using this one as practice since I don't intend to ever really be too hard on it. I don't mind spending money on the requisite tools, but I don't want to buy things I don't need either considering that it seems like there are a lot of tools one needs to build an engine and it adds up quickly. My list is already at $964, I will post it below and feel free to tell me which items are "marketing" from various car mags and which items I actually need. Thanks in advance of course!
Set of thread chasers - $70
Telescoping Gauge Set - $35
Machinists straight edge - $52
Feeler gauges - $10
Piston ring compressor - $30
Piston ring pliers - $10
Ring Squaring Tool - $50
Freeze Plug installer tool - $30
Cam degree kit (includes dial indicator and mounting base) - $110
Dial bore gauge - $130
Cam bearing install/removal tool - $170
Valve spring compressor - $55
Crank Socket - $20
Deadblow hammer - $10
Cylinder hone/glaze breaker - $20
Cylinder Ridge Reamer - $52
Piston ring filing tool - $50
Rod bolt stretch gauge - $60
Total - $964
I feel like the cam bearing tool may be one of the few that is definitely not worth the cost when the machine shop could do it. Not sure how much they will charge but I'm sure it will take me quite a few engines to make up the investment. Also, this is my list of items that I want - you can tell me if they are a waste of time and money or are actually nice to have:
rod clamp vise - $85
CC measuring kit - $115
Port and Polish kit - $50
Long nose die grinder - $50
Total with niceities - $1264
Torque wrench. That's the first thing I think of when considering a rebuild.
A clean room with a good sound system and a door that locks.
I need some tunes and I damn sure don't want anyone bothering me.
I have rebuilt a bunch of engines for street use. Normally all I find is rings and valve guide seals are worn.
My Saturn engine was rebuilt 100K miles ago and I didn't measure anything. As a mater of fact I did an in frame rebuild and the main bearings and rear crank seal are original with 320K miles.
Torque wrenches
Large --foot pounds,
small ---inch pounds (good for motorcycles and modern engines)
plastigauge
Feeler gauges ($5 cheapo set for valve setting on solid lifter engines),
Piston ring compressor ,
dial indicator and mounting base (crank end play),
Deadblow hammer,
Cylinder hone/glaze breaker,
Cylinder Ridge Reamer,
Piston ring filing tool.
In reply to turbofiend:
A couple of other things.
The $50 freeze plug tool can be replaced by an appropriate sized socket.
If the block is being machined, the ridge reamer shouldn't be needed. Have the machine shop install the cam bearings while they have it.
Use a set of telescoping bore gauges and a micrometer, they are about $20 and you need the micrometer to measure the pistons anyway. Shop around for that stuff. Prices vary wildly. For occasional use, Starrett isn't necessary, though is is nice.
$20 for a dead blow is outrageous, the $5 ones from HF are the same thing and probably made in the same Chinese factory.
The CC measuring kit can be replaced by a 50 cent piece of plastic and a syringe.
If you are taking this to a machine shop, I don't see the need in the straight edge, ridge reamer cam bearing tool, bore gauge, cylinder hone or freeze plug installer. Let them do it. The bore gauge and a good set of calipers would be nice though. I redneck engineered a device to remove my valve springs although the proper tool would have been nice.
I've been using the ~$15 valve spring compressor from Advance Auto Parts for 10 years or so now. So there's $40 saved.
pres589
UltraDork
12/13/13 8:16 a.m.
Don't forget assembly lube and break-in oil. There's special break-in grease for camshafts as well.
Torque wrenches to cover 10-100 lbs-ft, feelers for piston ring gaps, some Plastigauge to check rod & main clearances, maybe a really good snap ring pliers plus some garbage bags to cover the disassembled motor on the engine stand.
Most of the time, your rebuilt head comes back with the valve springs set in place but buy a compressor if you want to save a little $$ and do it yourself. A ring land cleaner if you're reusing pistons but I wouldn't because they shrink a little with age and the ring lands might be too wide by this point and out of spec.
Two types of assembly lube: A Lubriplate-type for wear points like bearings and such, plus special cam break-in lube for the lobes. Make assembly lube yourself for the piston walls by combining non-detergent 30-weight oil and STP in a 1:1 ratio.
Your machinist will do the rest. Sounds like a fun project.
A note for the OP about wacky list formatting on the GRM forum: If you put two spaces after each line before you hit return, that'll get the next item to actually fall on the next line. My eyes went crossed trying to read that 
Following this thread because one day I intend to rebuild an engine.
fujioko wrote:
My Saturn engine was rebuilt 100K miles ago and I didn't measure anything. As a mater of fact I did an in frame rebuild and the main bearings and rear crank seal are original with 320K miles.
This is what I'm hoping to do with my DD Saturn somewhere beyond 200k (if I keep it that long)... yank the motor, disassemble, put drainback holes in pistons, slap it back together with new rings, valve seals, and probably bearings while i'm in there. Maybe some timing chain parts.
nosleeves wrote:
A note for the OP about wacky list formatting on the GRM forum: If you put two spaces after each line before you hit return, that'll get the next item to actually fall on the next line. My eyes went crossed trying to read that
Yes. GRM uses markdown (although when HTML gets involved, markdown doesn't always work great), and its pretty easy... just most people here seem to not know about it. There should be a big fat button that says
HOW TO FORMAT A POST
This is the guide I use: http://docs.ghost.org/usage/writing/ because I also use ghost. The syntax is often slightly different on GRM, but it works mostly. Remember the double-space at the end of each line is necessary to tell it you arent in the same paragraph anymore.
Also, a "preview" option would help.
most of what you have in the required list isn't required if your machine shop is doing a lot of the work....
one good example would be the rod bolt stretch gauge... although a nice and handy tool, if you are rebuilding the bottom end, it isn't required, as long as you have a torque value and a torque wrench
Other things I don't tend to agree on what they chose(based on price) for example a piston ring compressor will likely cost you more than $10.00
Another example is the ring expander, done carefully, most rings can be installed/removed with just your fingers
As far as the valve/cam timing equipment... timing wheels all over the internet... and the hardware is minimal... the gauge and mount is available @ HF and should be about $15
Now you also mentioned you will be building a Volvo engine later.... a fair amount of stuff that works on the Ford, may not(likely not) work on the Volvo. With that said, I'd pick a machine shop you can trust...
A case of non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
It is the best thing for degreasing/cleaning. Won't leave a residue. All it takes is a blast of brake cleaner and a blast of clean air.
Lint-free cloths. One spec of lint on a main or rod bearing saddle can ruin your day.
I noticed you have a ridge reamer and honing tool on your list. Are you doing this all at home, or are you going to have it bored/honed? You can pretty easily ream the ridge, re-hone, and put some new rings in, but depending on the use of the block, don't expect rings to seal very well. What I'm saying is... if you're having it machined, you can skip those two tools. If you're doing it all at home, you'll need to add an engine cleaning brush set. A good bucket of hot soapy water and those brushes will get the block clean.
Concerning assembly lube, I have some very compelling arguments/tech concerning where and when to use it, so hit me up when you get to that point.
as far as a deadblow hammer... I just use the handle of my rubber mallet for things like pistons.
Oh... and dial bore gauge. Don't need it. Nice to have, but if a shop is doing the work, its not an issue.
I've built a ton of engines and never used a bore gauge.
You shouldn't need anything related to the bores, rods, freeze plugs, or cam bearings if you are sending it to a shop for machine work, cleaning, and general inspection.
curtis73 wrote:
A case of non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
It is the best thing for degreasing/cleaning. Won't leave a residue. All it takes is a blast of brake cleaner and a blast of clean air.
Lint-free cloths. One spec of lint on a main or rod bearing saddle can ruin your day.
I noticed you have a ridge reamer and honing tool on your list. Are you doing this all at home, or are you going to have it bored/honed? You can pretty easily ream the ridge, re-hone, and put some new rings in, but depending on the use of the block, don't expect rings to seal very well. What I'm saying is... if you're having it machined, you can skip those two tools. If you're doing it all at home, you'll need to add an engine cleaning brush set. A good bucket of hot soapy water and those brushes will get the block clean.
Concerning assembly lube, I have some very compelling arguments/tech concerning where and when to use it, so hit me up when you get to that point.
I wanted to do it all at home but I think my eyes are bigger then my skills, lol. I think I'll do less at home this time and buy some of those tools when I do a future build (spread it out, I can't stomach spending $1,000 on hand tools right now - even though I'd like to.)
nosleeves wrote:
A note for the OP about wacky list formatting on the GRM forum: If you put two spaces after each line before you hit return, that'll get the next item to actually fall on the next line. My eyes went crossed trying to read that
Perfect, thanks, I tried formatting it with html and it looked good in the preview pane... oh well, now I know.
The good news is you've picked one simple engine to rebuild.
