¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:Keith Tanner said:What if you put some ducting on your rear brakes to keep the temps lower?
Possible but difficult, especially to keep it from turning into a dirt funnel. I'm also not sure they're actually getting too hot, I think it's just wee little pads doing their thing appropriately but running out of material a lot faster than the 3x larger front pads.
Yeah I tried, there is quite nearly 0 room to jam a duct hose or scoop in there along with the axle and toe rod and cables and hoses and the whole bushel of control arms, so I ended up cutting the backing plates open and bending them into a scoop to funnel air from the front-lower control arm which itself is shaped to funnel air into the wheel, so it lets the air into the center of the disc. It seems to work decently but it would probably act as a dirt funnel on a rally car. With that and Porsche GT3 ducts in the front, my front and rear pads wear down about evenly.
Nissan 300zx both Z31 and Z32 could be had with fixed iron calipers. They tend to hold their value pretty well because Nissan and because they sometimes say "Nissan" on them.
The 300ZX calipers are a relatively easy swap onto the front, for the rear WRX 2-piston swaps are popular but that's an aluminum caliper. You can still get affordable aftermarket 300ZX calipers without the Nissan branding (the same model was used on a lot of different applications).
I'm guessing the extra rear bias for rally use exaggerates the rear wear far more than the manufacture-intended bias for pavement... Like, I doubt this is as much a BRZ problem as it is a rally-BRZ problem?
In reply to Berck :
100% a rally BRZ problem, the brakes are fine for paved stuff although I did get some fade on a fast tarmac section.
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