Although I have been a car guy ever since I could walk and talk and have worked on my cars for a long time I have never rebuilt on engine. Now that I am retired rebuilding on engine is on my bucket list.
I have three engines that need rebuilding and I want your advice as to which one you would tackle as your first rebuild.
The candidates are:
1967 Fiat 850 a tiny 4 cylinder 850cc
1967 MG Midget 1275 a slightly bigger 4 cylinder
1994 Ford 351W V8
Please let me know what your choice would be and why.
Thanks
Either of those should be relatively simple. What would you like to rebuild next? A more modern 4 cylinder or V8? What's your automotive "lean"? More oddball European stuff or American Big Iron? If you are more of the Ur-a-Pee-in lean, start with the midget motor. It's probably about as simple as you can get and parts should be available for it.
My first motor rebuild was a 1974 Lotus Twin Cam Big Valve. After paying (in today's dollars) >6K for a shop to rebuild it and 15K miles later holding #3 piston in my hand, I figgered I could screw up a motor just as well all by myself for a whole lot less money.
I love it a Lotus TC for a first build. I love cars period! I love the odd ball European and the big American Iron too.
I thought either the 1275 or the 850 first because I think they are relatively simple, and parts, at least for the 1275 are readily available. Parts for the 850 are available but not as plentiful. And second, either one would get me on the road to rehabing a 1960 Bugeye Sprite and a 1967 850 Spider.
I also have Lotus Europa S2 not a TC that also needs an engine rebuild but that is something for a later day.
Thanks for the encouragement.
My first engine rebuild was a BMC A-Series 850 - small bore version of your 1275. It was a quick and cheap job; just rings and bearings. My second build was an A-series 1380 - big overbore 1275. Parts are readily available for them. Easy enough to do without a proper engine stand, but next time, I'd do it with one.
At this time, I'm starting piecing together a parts list for a 400 Small Block Chevy.
In reply to fortee9er :
MG Midget,
simple motor without any real tricks to trip you up. Plus it’s not going to be too heavy so you can finesse things easier
Do you have a car waiting for any of those motors? If so do that one.
A voice of dissent just for devil's advocacy. The cheapest engine to rebuild is a small block Chevy, small block Ford behind that somewhere, and Way off in the distance, ...imports.
Years ago, I was rebuilding a 22-RE Toyota for a 4X4 pickup, while, at the same time, a friend was rebuilding a 350 Chevy for his 4X4 Blazer. Everything he bought was 1/2 the price of what I bought, or cheaper.
Also, lots of books and online advice for good ol, USofA stuff. This is, of course, all irrelevant if you are building an 850, or a Bugeye.
In reply to dean1484 :
I have a car waiting for all three.
Brian
UltraDork
12/3/17 10:52 a.m.
I'd start with the ford, because if something goes wrong, chances are it was ford's fault in the first place.
It will also be easiest to find parts and support for.
My first was a BMW M50, and I'm now in the midst of a GM 5.3L LS truck engine.
I'd definately make your first something that both has good parts availablility, and enough pictures/videos of other people doing it so that you can figure out how to do the "weird" things on the engine. For example, getting the timing chain installed on the M50 requires some careful though about order-of-operations, made much easier by watching somebody else do it first.
I'd start with the Ford, if only because there are a million of them out there.
Most important, is the engine rebuildable without major machine work.
How worn are the cylinders and the crankshaft ? Not forgetting the pistons.
If you are located fairly close I would be happy to measure these things as I have the tools and knowledge
In reply to iceracer :
Thanks for the offer but from your handle I will take a wild guess you are somewhere close to the Canadian border while I am closer to the Mexican border.
I have a car with a 351W but it's a smog motor from the '70s. I bought a 1994/5 351W truck engine (roller motor) that was completely disassembled. The seller bought it for a Mustang project had the block tanked and magnafluxed but then decided he wanted a Dart block instead. The block still has the tag from the machine shop.
I have not done any measuring yet but if anything should go wrong I only paid $100 for it.
Hal
UltraDork
12/3/17 5:05 p.m.
The 1275. No difficult "got ya" things to worry about. Lots of history and tutorials out there. Still good parts supply. And they can be rebuilt on the kitchen table
zordak
New Reader
12/3/17 5:23 p.m.
Take your time. Measure everything to make sure clearances are correct. Keep everything clean. Take notes, easier than remembering. I haven't seen a Fiat 850 but either of the others is a fairly straight forward job. I would do the MGB motor because of fewer parts. Just my 2 cents worth.
In reply to fortee9er :
Any older engine will likely need a new cam, lifters, and timing chain and sprockets. New oils lack ZDDP and the cam lifters chain and sprockets suffer because of it
Hal said:
The 1275. No difficult "got ya" things to worry about. Lots of history and tutorials out there. Still good parts supply. And they can be rebuilt on the kitchen table
Best book for the A-Series. You can find it cheaper on Amazon. Mini Mania is an excellent parts source, though.
Are you on the Yahoo lotuseuropa mailing list? With two, you need to be there. I have a TCS and an S2 now. Yahoo Group.
I have built many motors of all configurations. Even a Wankle or three.
I have found that bringing all the parts to a machien shop to measure everything is money well spent. I then check it all again when I assemble it.
Oh and on a side not having the rotating assembly balanced is always money well spent. When balancing I would bring the pistons and rods in to spec and then let the shop do there thing as well as check my work. The rest is like legos.
Oh and use assembly lube. Lots of it. It is basically sticky oil and pay attention to the cam manufacturers recommendation for initial start up and break in oil type. I like Amesoil but there are a bunch of others.
In reply to zordak : I use brake cleaner to do a final assembly wash as I put things together. Yes use assembly line!!!
I also use a roll of white butcher paper on top of a clean bench. The white paper shows any dirt and when the engine is assembled protects the bench top while I paint the engine
In reply to frenchyd :
Dishwasher and the kitchen table were used more than once to ensure things were clean.
In reply to Dr. Hess :
Yes I am. That is another project on the waiting list.
In reply to RealMiniParker :
What is the best book for the A series? I have the Vizzard book and a Haynes manual.
+1 for doing the SBF first. Dirt cheap parts, forgiving '60s design.
In reply to fortee9er :
If you've got the big yellow book, you're set. Between that and the Haynes, Bob's your uncle.