I'm looking for a book on scratch building a frame/chassis. I've got books on chassis and suspension design, but none on the actual construction process...
For example, I haven't got a really good grasp of how to ensure everything goes in square and level/plumb beyond measure measure measure, and then measure it again to be absolutely sure.
Suggestions?
The Locostusa forums and books on that same subject will help you out.
Read a lot of classic race car building books.
Seriously there are so many directions to consider, from beam axle vs independent, then what type of linkages, front end, upper and lower control arms vs just lower, seat position, engine position. etc etc
Ron Champion's may be a good place to start:
Locost
Just to satisfy curiosity what's the chassis for? (GT40, Locost, go cart?)
Any specific Locost-related books? Quick Amazon search shows results from authors Gibbs, Tanner, Champion, Pashley, Baxter, Dudley, Hammill, Brizendine, Haskell. Any of these notably more useful than others on this subject?
Sorry Bill, didn't see your post until after I had finished mine.
The frame under the TR4 in my avatar pic is the frame in question. Car sat for years outside, had sunk past the floorboards when I dragged it out. The frame is flaky enough that I don't trust it past nice, easy, straight-line cruising. I'm working up to autocrossing it, but based on the degree of deterioration throughout, I'm leaning toward a bit more race-focused build. SCCA Prepared doesn't allow alternative chassis, so I'd be going back with essentially the same design, but with some minor reinforcement. Stock suspension type has to be retained, although I think you can upgrade individual components (mounting points must be as stock). I can buy one for about $4k, but don't really want to invest that much on the frame alone. Besides, what would be the fun in that. 
So Champion's book is a good one, eh?
Flat and square is what you need.
I keep a 4x8' by 1" piece of steel plate laying around so that I can do accurate measuring to various points on the car.
I have not seen it for the triumph but the MGs have drawings that show frame reference
points and diagonal checks.
A ratco frame is basically replacing the triumph double C-channel frame with 2x3 tubing. Flat and square is the key. Over on the locost side, they tend to make up a level build table where they can clamp the work pieces together so there's minimal shifting while welding. Hot rod shops/rock crawler shops may also have chassis tables or jigs.
Ratco was where I farmed my "new frame price" from.
Fortunately, the TR4 frame is pretty straightforward. I've been putting together a library of solidworks models during my lunchbreaks, and have the frame modeled aside from the front suspension mounting/bracing parts, which I don't have good measurements for right now. I don't care for the C-channel stuff, that's why my frame is so bad. I've been using 2x3 tubing in my models.
I suspect the key will be to take my time, measure twice, cut once, bend carefully, work up from a nice flat surface, tack weld/bounce around to prevent warping, measure measure measure.
Even if the frame build tanks, I won't be out all that much money, and will likely have learned enough to offset the expense.
NOHOME wrote: I keep a 4x8' by 1" piece of steel plate laying around so that I can do accurate measuring to various points on the car.
of course you do because HOW THE BERKELEY would you MOVE that?!!
The plan for my build table is three 4x8 pieces of 3/4" MDF bolted together and framed with 2x6's.
Should be stable and flat. Should also be heavy as hell, which is good.
ultraclyde wrote:NOHOME wrote: I keep a 4x8' by 1" piece of steel plate laying around so that I can do accurate measuring to various points on the car.of course you do because HOW THE BERKELEY would you MOVE that?!!
Would you believe wheels?
Isn't there a company advertised in CM/GRM that makes replacement frames for Triumphs? I know not grassroots and maybe not as cool as making a tube frame.
This from Fast Cars for TR-6
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/FastCars-TR6-Frame.htm
Ha, that link has been bookmarked for months.
Unless I want to jump to E Modified (I think), with Jeff Kiesel's Sprite, I have to at least make the new frame LOOK like the original.
For now, I'm going to shoot for Prepared; once I've given it the once over, it will be much easier to disassemble and rebuild should I decide a different frame design is the way to go.
I've been cruising locostusa and will browse pirate4x4 this evening if I get the chance.
Either build from square/rectangle tube, or buy a fishmouthing rig. You won't get a decent fit if you try fishmouthing round tube by hand.
I'm no expert on such things, but here are the notes/hints I made for myself about chassis building as I learned to weld
http://pennyanteracing.com/updates/keywords.php?keywords=welding&submit=submit
Zombie thread revival.
To OP, did you ever get a start on (or finish) your TR4 frame?
I think I need to explore a new frame for my own '65 TR4.
I was just thinking yesterday that JohninKansas has been missing for a long time. Hope he's doing ok.
Hes been stationed overseas from what i remember. I think hes due to return soon. Thought i saw that on his truck thread.
And now that this thread has revived, thanks fir build table ideas.
Not a book- but there's a lot of video illustrating the construction of a race car- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj1P9eBlPZKyT2k9pFEMBjA
Tube notching
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQB1pYH1xiE
It takes practice but you can make good fishmouths with a sawzall and angle grinder.
ultraclyde wrote:NOHOME wrote: I keep a 4x8' by 1" piece of steel plate laying around so that I can do accurate measuring to various points on the car.of course you do because HOW THE BERKELEY would you MOVE that?!!
Our welding table at work is built around a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" thick steel. Which had a sheet of plywood bolted on top when we got it, so it was massively rusted, so one of Knurled's tasks was to expend about 12 hours and untold 6" 36-grit disks sanding it down. Moved it with a cherrypicker.
First time I tried to move it, the center of gravity shifted and it flipped the cherrypicker over. A little more one way and I woulda lost half of both of my feet.
Aw, you guys noticed I'd been gone for awhile...
Got home from Korea in mid-June, just been enjoying my time off the net. Wife bought me a new old motorcycle, and I've been doing my best to let it ruin my back. She's been griping about not being able to show off the Great Western Roadtrip thread to her friends since Photobucket got weird (I must have missed that memo). I may poke my head in and re-curate some of my old stuff.
Regarding the Triumph: Nope, haven't made any real progress. Still needs done. Someday when I have more free time, fewer projects, and a bigger shop.
And yeah, to answer my original question, big heavy frame table ftw.
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