Im sad about selling my ls1rx7 project... But i plan to do some sort of v8 into a japanese car or a v8 american sedan.... I plan to do this a long time from now, giving myself time to plan and save... Anyway ive been leaning towards a 5.0+5spd in a 85 to
88 cressida, but the t5 makes me less enthused about it, however having had the ls1 , ive been also pondering a gm 5.3 with a t56 but the price of the trans makes me less enthused... Any input ?
Im partial to the 5.3, it moves my barge quite well.
B430
Reader
8/13/12 11:21 p.m.
How much power do you want? The 5.3 block can handle a lot more power. The 5.0 would be easier on the wallet if you aren't going for crazy power. Plus it would be lighter than an iron 5.3.
unk577
Reader
8/14/12 12:26 a.m.
5.3's iron or aluminum can be found very inexpensive. Sub $500
I haven't driven anything with a 5.3 or T56. I did have a 5.0 T5 Mustang that I did enjoy driving. If you are working on a very tight budget the 5.0/T5 is hard to beat. I bought my Mustang for $600 with the intent of using the drivetrain for my 69 MGB.
However, I would recommend the 5.3 and T56 if you can afford it.
Just curious; what turns you off about the T5?
Jeff
Well ive heard horror stories about the t5 being made of silly putty and not doing so well over 300lbtq... However the 5.0 seems to fit better in small engine bays , a lot of swapped cars ive seen even get away with mustang headers...
stealthfighter1 wrote:
a lot of swapped cars ive seen even get away with mustang headers...
Funny thing is that doesn't limit you to the 5.0. Some of the RX7 (FC) guys use Mustang long tubes on LSx header flanges for LSx swaps.
You're talking about the "old" 5.0 found in the Fox Bodies, right? Because as much as I love the new Modular 5.0, that engine is physically very large (though its weight is low for what it is).
MrJoshua wrote:
stealthfighter1 wrote:
a lot of swapped cars ive seen even get away with mustang headers...
Funny thing is that doesn't limit you to the 5.0. Some of the RX7 (FC) guys use Mustang long tubes on LSx header flanges for LSx swaps.
Or if you want, the cast iron truck manifolds seem to readily accept welding to mild steel bends for alternate exit locations.
For a long time, the LSx header in the Fox was accomplished with using a 351 swap header and use the GMPP flanges welded on. They were THAT close.
I have bbk longtubes in my 5.0 1984 RX7 GSL, they went in just fine.
I went with the Tremec trans, picked up new unused on Craigslist for $800, great solid feel with a loooong .63 overdrive
If your looking for cheap you can do a 5.0/T-5 combo for under well under $1000. A T-5 should hold up to a stock or mild 5.0 pretty easily. The trans, accessories and oil pan are the real killers for the LSX.
We have a 5.0 in our Lemon's/Chump RX-7. Reportedly has an mild cam but is otherwise stock. Used unknown condition trans, 3 Races (48ish hours) plus test days with no trans issues thus far. Lost a clutch but we believe that was due to a mis-shift. Clutch kit was cheap ($125)
Also have a 5.0 Volvo wagon with a 5.0/T-5. Has a mild cam, GT40 heads. Balanced and blue printed etc. etc. Have $6k in receipts and makes maybe 300hp. Again no trans issues over a reported 40k miles.
I am planning on a 5.7 LS1 built to LS6 specs in my 84 RX-7. Going with the T-56. Paid $2500 for the stock pullout with 86,000 miles. Heads were $600, cam and springs $108, LS6 intake $250. Should make 400hp or so. Clutch kit is around $300-$400.
A friend of mine has a L33 5.3 in a second gen RX-7 backed by a T-5. Motor cost him about $800 plus a $250 core. Had to purchase F-Body accessories and oil pan which was another $600-$750 new. A $600 adapter for the T-5 and an LS6 intake. Running modified Fox Body 5.0 headers and tunes it himself on HP tuners. Made right around 300rwhp and 325rwtq. Blew up the first T-5 and rebuilt it incorrectly so built it again. Now on three track days and some street miles with no further issues.
I like the LSX better as a motor but while the buy in is cheap it seems to nickle and dime you to death from there. They make much better power stock and will make more power easier.
WHOA . . . 6 bills for a T-5 to LSx adapter
Here is the list of parts to get a GM wcT5 behind a LSx:
- Bellhousing casting number 3899621 OR GM truck bellhousing (460486) plus the Novak bushing (BR-4) and front cover plate
- Stock LS1 or LS6 flywheel and clutch kit + (Can't remember if this is needed - LS1 Flexplate Spacer 12563532)
- Pilot bearing GM part #12557583
- Howe racing hydraulic throwout bearing #82870
- 2 short hard lines to get you out the bellhousing.
- 3/4" or 7/8" master cylinder
- If you decide to go fork- (pioneer PN# CF100, GM 340278, or 14066235)
I'll have to look up the information on Ford and GM wcT-5 V6 (Ford mounting pattern).
I struggled with the same thing for my Volvo. The 4.8 I got for it was sub $300. There was no way I was going to pay $1200 for a beat and tired T-56.
I did get a core T-56 from a friend for less than a song that has a broken 3-4 shift fork that I will rebuild some day when I get courage ($1000 total since it is a LT1 T-56).
Strike_Zero wrote:
WHOA . . . 6 bills for a T-5 to LSx adapter
That is what a QuickTime SFI bellhousing costs. It is a straight bolt up deal though....
In reply to Ranger50:
Holy crap . . . I stand corrected.
stealthfighter1 wrote:
Well ive heard horror stories about the t5 being made of silly putty and not doing so well over 300lbtq...
As long as it is not powershifted a V8 box (4 & V6 versions look identical externally) is generally safe up to 350 or a bit more, particularly in a light car where you'll usually reach the limit of traction before you can hurt it.
Good luck,
Jeff
The T-5 in my Mustang is still going strong after 270,000 miles and three GRM Challenges worth of 4,000 RPM clutch drops... on slicks. No crunching between shifts or anything. I always thought these boxes were junk, but from experience have a different opinion now.
B430
Reader
8/14/12 5:25 p.m.
unk577 wrote:
5.3's iron or aluminum can be found very inexpensive. Sub $500
The motor is cheap, the rest of the parts are where the $$ goes.
i'm starting to lean more towards the 5.0, especially since i can seem to find parts used more often than lsx ones, and a lot of the time the t5 to 5.0 seems to be totally straightforward... i have seen composite upper manifolds and i think coupled with alum heads would probably bring weight down a bit...
I just picked up a 4.8L for the best price, I would claim the gas money on a budget sheet.
Now I need to patiently wait for a similarly priced car for it to go in to.
The T5 in my Mustang shifts okay, it seems like there's excess lash in 2nd gear, and a bit of whine there too. I also wish 5th was taller. I don't think these later T5's are really that bad but the early stuff sounds kind of garbage (pre-World Class, etc).
bluej
Dork
8/15/12 1:20 a.m.
relevant question i've been having a hard time tracking down the answer to:
are there any other engines that utilize the 6 bolt 3.110" flywheel bolt circle diameter?
A V8 T-5 has a pretty tall 5th gear (.68 IIRC). In our lemons car with a stock 96 Mustang GT rear (3.27 IIRC) our 5th gear spread was something like 110 - 175mph. It was the main reason we could only get to 143mph at Daytona. Once you shifted to 5th it was slow going.
Jaynen
Reader
8/15/12 10:09 a.m.
v8 roadsters was working on something for the T5 with their v8rspec for using the L33 5.3l engines with the T5 trans.
Would definitely be a good way to go price wise if you could also score an oil pan cheaper, they have one but its not much cheaper than the F body (and of course theirs may be somewhat miata specific)