So I'm pulling the pan of my just rebuilt trans. All the t27 headed Torx fasteners are in way too tight. It feels like they were put in using uggie duggies which is concerning. Anyway, all but one has come lose. The last one my cheap hammer store Torx bit can't grip and is starting to round out the head. I looked at tapping in a t30 but that seems way too big. What's a good quality bit that will hopefully bite and get this damn thing lose. Hopefully something strong with deep teeth.
thx
Whatever you get, tap on it with an old fashioned manual impact driver. The shock helps and the forcing the bit to the bottom as it turns helps them keep from stripping.
Based in Grand Rapids, MI, Tekton seems to have nice stuff. Also, strangely available at Meijer (also Grand Rapids based) and often 20% off. Not the first place you think of for quality tools but Meijer carries almost the full line of Tekton.
I have also seen Tekton at Rural King which generally has a big selection of Dewalt and Milwaukee tools too.
mazdeuce - Seth said:Whatever you get, tap on it with an old fashioned manual impact driver. The shock helps and the forcing the bit to the bottom as it turns helps them keep from stripping.
This. In fact, you can probably use your existing bit.
I came to say Tekton too. I haven't put mine through a ton but so far so good
I've had good luck using my little Milwaukee 12v impact driver on the zillion torx-headed things on my rusty Saab. While this is not particular to torx bits, it may offer some insight into the quality of various options. FWIW, I've been happy with the Bosch set I got a while back, but I don't know that it includes T27.
Wow. Tekton it is with impact. Will hopefully report back tomorrow night.
thanks.
As someone who uses torx bits all the time, I will tell you that you really do want the bit to strip and not the bolt or screw. I would much rather say a few choice words and run to the hardware store for new bits, instead of doing an extraction and re-thread
From a couple years ago:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/absolute-best-torx-bits-in-the-world/137927/page1/
I bought some Blue Point from eBay and have been content enough, I still loathe Torx and replace them with hex or socket head fasteners whenever possible.
mazdeuce - Seth said:Whatever you get, tap on it with an old fashioned manual impact driver. The shock helps and the forcing the bit to the bottom as it turns helps them keep from stripping.
Which led me to Google what such a driver is. And that led to this video which suggests using valve lapping compound.
Impact drivers are incredibly useful.
I bought Tekton on Amazon that has served me well so far.
It's a necessary tool for rotor bolts and old Honda motorcycle engine case screws.
In reply to spandak :
The Honda case screws are when I discovered the hand held manual impact driver! First bike I owned... 74 Honda 450 in 1983.
Still a handy tool to have; will still remove some things that these newfangled ‘lectric ones won’t!!!
In reply to 03Panther :
They are really good for things like the torx bolt since the action of hammering the back of the manual impact will cause it to stay seated well - like everyone else here, I've had mine since the days of removing Honda brakes.
MAn, I haven't seen one of those manual Impact drivers for decades, I bet I can borrow one from O'Reillyes.
Adrian_Thompson (Forum Supporter) said:MAn, I haven't seen one of those manual Impact drivers for decades, I bet I can borrow one from O'Reillyes.
Yes. likely.
Side note: Those Honda motorcycle screws aren't Phillips. They are JIS, Japanese Industrial Standard. JIS are not designed to cam out like Phillips was designed to.
I was first introduced to the manual impact driver back in the early '80s when I was working on motorcycles. I don't even try to loosen motorcycle case or case cover screws with anything else.
If you purchase one try and avoid they type in the video thumbnail with the retaining ring around the handle. That ring expands during the impact action and under certain circumstances takes a bite out of your hand when it contracts.
I've been happy with hex and Torx tools from Bondhus, plus they're made in Minnesota. https://bondhus.com
Adrian_Thompson (Forum Supporter) said:MAn, I haven't seen one of those manual Impact drivers for decades, I bet I can borrow one from O'Reillyes.
They're so relatively cheap and small I usually think just having one around is worth it. Maybe a good item to put on your Christmas list so you don't get socks again?
Am I the only person that hammers allen bits into these regularly? I have some SK brand ones in both metric and sae that repeatedly get hammer tuned into various torx head fasteners and they always win.
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:Am I the only person that hammers allen bits into these regularly? I have some SK brand ones in both metric and sae that repeatedly get hammer tuned into various torx head fasteners and they always win.
Yeah, that's what I do. The fastener is probably beyond saving, so why put extra work into it?
Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) said:Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:Am I the only person that hammers allen bits into these regularly? I have some SK brand ones in both metric and sae that repeatedly get hammer tuned into various torx head fasteners and they always win.
Yeah, that's what I do. The fastener is probably beyond saving, so why put extra work into it?
I have also welded hammer store sockets onto them but it's much more work.
In reply to accordionfolder :
Screw Santa, that set will be here Weds from Mr. Amazon now, along with the Torx bits.
I like put a dab of valve lapping compound into the torx head before going at them. The grit of the compound fills in the slack so you reduce the chance of stripping the bolt
You can grind off the end of your torx driver and clean it up with a wire wheel to get some fresh meat in there.
it also looks like a pair of visegrips might grab the head of those bolts if all else fails. But I bet the impact driver works.
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