Help me with a hard start

Having issues with the MX6. It's the 1988 GT. Car uses a Vain Airflow Meter (VAF) rather than a MAF. Basically it uses vacuum the adjust air/fuel. (Someone else can correct this if I'm wrong).

Here's the deal. A little over a week ago we had 20 degree temps. A couple of days later it was in the 50s. I tried to start the car and dead battery. Jumped it with my wife's car and it took forever to start but finally did so. Noticed I had a CEL. I literally just moved the car to another spot in the driveway and figured I'd look into it later.

Two days later it was in the teens. Had a guy come look at the car and no start. Figured it was frozen up because it sat with less than 1/4 tank. Pushed into the garage and let it thaw. Got it started after changing the battery. Had to hold the accelerator to the floor. Car idles and revs like nothing is wrong.

Here's were I have issues. To pull the CEL codes, you have to ground the Self Testing I? (STI). You then turn the key to the "on" position and count the code blinks. When I go to check the CEL code(s), it just stays illuminated. I've tried resetting the ECU and restarting. CEL is still illuminated. Sometimes when I do this, sensors and solenoids throughout the engine bay start clicking and popping. The CEL starts to flutter when the sensors click. The biggest offenders have been the solenoids on the drivers side shown in the link as the solenoid valve (purge) and solenoid valve (pressure regulator). (the vac lines go to the charcoal canister). See link:

http://www.mcdonaldindustries.com/james/20150110_100931.jpg

What do you think would be my issue? It has to be air related due to the cars need for more air (flooring it) to start. I'm grasping at straws here.

I'm not clear on what battery you've got in there, now, but often a weak battery can cause all sorts of odd electrical problems. Could be your problem, considering it all started with cold weather and a dead battery.

That's all I've got...

Possible scenario -

The prior starting attempts have left unburned fuel in the motor. Flooring the throttle during cranking causes the ECM to stop delivering fuel (clear flood mode).

The large throttle opening shakes the vane airflow meter into life.

Perhaps the VAM is gummed up or just done

The VAF could well be done. The car actually starts without it. Today's endevors will involve unplugging sensors one at a time to see if it affects startup.

I've also read that a constant CEL that won't allow you to check codes could mean the ECU is done. I've also read that these ECUs usually fail epically and not slowly.

Trashed batteries have always done really weird stuff on these cars for me.

First, do the basics.

Fuel, ignition (spark), compression and all at the right time. Cranking speed is important "Battery?"

The Vane air flow meter does just that. Meters air flow.

about to start the car with a new battery. Back to the basics.

Battery change did nothing.

Ugh. I guess i'm going grounding issue or ecu. The vaf shouldn't affect starting.

Agreed. Unplugging the VAF made startup worse and the car run like poo. Unplugging a multitude of sensors did nothing. I'm going to look for an ECU and try it out.

Sounds like you may have upset the ecu when you jumped it, as in you've had a voltage surge and killed it... But before going down that path, grab some vice grips or a brake hose clamp and clamp your fuel return line shut and see if that makes any difference... Fuel pump may be on its way out.

Are you 100% sure your doing the ECU self diagnostic correctly? If so then yeah, I'd say she's deadski

110% sure I'm doing the self diagnostic correct.

Figured so, but had to ask. Sounds very much like the ECU has cracked the sads then.

Just bought an OEM ECU for $40 shipped. We will see if tha remedies the problem.

ECU or wiring issues, it's basically the same as the toyota system.

It was the ECU. Car runs great now.

Awesome, glad to hear you fixed it.