So, i have a set of rare bucket seats. The tracks are not available, and specific to two model years.
I can ge everything to rebuild these seats but the tracks.
These tracks are rusted up solid. Will not move.
Ideas? Ive started with the acetone/trans fluid mix, but it hasn't made a dent.
Im thinking vinegar, or electrolysi, or....
What are the options here? I dont need them in perfect condition, but functional.
In EastCoastMojo's thread on car iron someone mentioned molasses. I really want to see how that works so you should do it and experiment for me.
Rare As In? ......... give us an Idea , this is the Hive. so the tracks are rusted solid, the Lock lever won't move , Both . Electric?
maybe a Little Heat? as in Just a Little
64 chevelle bucket seat tracks. 64-65 only.
Not a damn thing moves. At all. Rusted completely solid.
Haven't tried heat yet, as i dont know if there is any plastic in them.
Molasses? Really? Wher do you even get a 5 gallon bucket of molasses?
Not definitive, but there's some hopeful talk on chevelles.com... This is not by any means the only thread, but fingers crossed? http://www.chevelles.com/forums/26-interiors/224670-1965-bucket-seat-tracks.html
Apologies if that line of search is already worn out.
Oh, and the second post on http://www.chevelles.com/forums/26-interiors/187418-65-chevelle-bucket-seat-tracks.html might have some useful info about partial replacement.
Yank them drop them in a vinegar bath inside a sonicator and let them got for at least three hours. Then soak overnight. hit with a copper brush after.
Or pull them and have someone with a dry ice blaster hit them for you for a six pack on the side.
Oxilac acid (wood bleach contains some) mixed with water. Alot of guys in the vintage bike world swear its the best rust remover that doesnt damage paint. Ive had good experience with it myself.
Assuming you can separate the tracks from the seats, I'll be more than happy to run them through my electrolysis tank for you. Shouldn't take more than a couple hours to strip em down to non rusty metal. Hit me up via pm.
would evaporust do the job?
Q: Where to get 5 gallon bucket of molasses
Ive been soaking everything rusty in vinegar and it's working stinky miracles
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/ Looks like a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF is the way to go
Molasses is too expensive to experiment with.
The atf/acetone mix didnt seem to touch it.
Wouls electrolysis get the inner workings as well?
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Get a rectangular plastic storage tub from the dollar store, fill up with Evapo Rust just deep enough to cover the tracks, place seats into tub & check on them a few hours later. It absolutely 100% WILL remove the rust - the question is how much actual metal is still surviving underneath?
For example, the targa top removal tool for the Vette - basically it's a 6" ratchet with a T45 torx bit permanently attached to it - had been submerged under water in the Vette's rear storage compartment for a very long time(it looked like something from an underwater archeological excavation). Evapo Rust freed it up so the ratchet works just fine, but unfortunately the torx end was gone.
there is also vineger,1 Gal. Mixed with about a Half Box Of Baking soda, It works well and is very Cheap I soaked my Older roll Bar tubes in it took a couple day's but the were all But Shiney
FWIW. I have been been playing with electrolysis rust removal lately and been impressed. Restored a pipe wrench that belonged to my wife's dad that was rusted solid ( Like furry I need a tetanus shotb rusty) and after a day in the tank was able to disassemble. Didn't even have to wire brush it before painting.
Molasses? Really? Wher do you even get a 5 gallon bucket of molasses?
Son, do ya live in the south? We got molasses like J-lo got cellulite.
Keep soaking them daily. Whatever you use, it needs to stay wet, or even submerged. Wiggle stuff a little every day and it will eventually loosen up. Remember it took years (decades?) to rust up, don't expect a quick fix.
I'd also try rattling along the slides with an air hammer and a nylon bit to break stuff up. (Or just a use a wood block as a buffer.) Just do it with the air way down so you don't warp your tracks. You want the vibration to do the work, not so much the impact itself. Make sure not to use it to try and force anything to move.
I use the air hammer trick a lot.
I've never used evapo-rust or electrolysis, but this sounds like a great project to experiment with.
Edit: Also, it may sound counter intuitive, but occasionally blasting them with a pressure washer to help rinse out the stuff that's loosened up helps too. (Even a garden hose with a spray nozzle will help.) All that old rust turns into a paste and makes stuff gummy. It also helps to get fresh penetrant in closer to the base metal.
I have been thoroughly impressed with how quickly the electrolysis setup removes rust, even when a direct line of sight to the anodes is not available. It's cheap and worth a shot. If nothing else it will give you a head start for trying any of the other suggested methods.
EastCoastMojo said:I have been thoroughly impressed with how quickly the electrolysis setup removes rust, even when a direct line of sight to the anodes is not available. It's cheap and worth a shot. If nothing else it will give you a head start for trying any of the other suggested methods.
Where do I find the tool for this process that can hold Larger things. I will mostly just replace small stuff but some Items /Michaels seat tracks, Or heads will need a larger/ Tank, If that is what it is . and what Is the Medium, sand/silica Or a Liquid.
In reply to GTXVette :
I use a large rubbermaid tote that I picked up from Lowe's / Hope Depot. Here's a link to the build thread for my tank.
The fellow I bought my trucks bed from had a huge Rubbermaid roller and he was doing his HOOD in it! Looked like a hospital linens tub.
In reply to GTXVette :
I used a 30 gallon poly garbage can, even left a bag in it because the rust will stain the plastic. I've got an extra garbage cart if needed for larger parts.
For the seat tracks I would try electrolysis. It will work better if you can get line of sight, so try extending the tracks after the first go and do it again.
I've also done the vinegar thing. It works but was slower acting than electrolysis.
chandler said:The fellow I bought my trucks bed from had a huge Rubbermaid roller and he was doing his HOOD in it! Looked like a hospital linens tub.
This is funny but very weird because 2 night's ago I had a dream that I was pushing a container like that down the street with someone Following me saying I Stole his Garbage Can...... Day'm
loosecannon said:https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/ Looks like a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF is the way to go
It's called Weasel Piss.
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