OEM top is fabric, though. That's another $285 if you want OEM material.
pres589 wrote: Robbins top, $705; http://www.kwiktops.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=2540honda
I just had mine patched, but can't currently lower it. I'm looking at my other options. This winter is going to be expensive between that and a mild STR build.
stealthfighter1 wrote: i'm a honda tech, and most s2000 don't get driven very much. most people that buy them are either.... cheap or old , or both.
Looks like that mirrors my experience, so far I've found one car that was maintained the way you'd expect it from "one of us", but a lot of people seem to be more interested in polishing them than in changing the oil.
stealthfighter1 wrote: overall it's still a honda, the oil change is the only thing i'd see it due for untill it hits the 3 year old mark . check the cabin filter though, it's in the cowl on the battery side, pull gently on the plastic cover and you'll see a small white oval , only the inside part is disposable, the frame you re-use.
Thanks for the info. Do I need a special tool to reset the oil life/service indicator on these?
No special tool need. You use the odo reset button. If you google it, there are numerous posts on how to reset it.. I never remember it so I have to google when the light is on.
Datsun1500 wrote:DirtyBird222 wrote: 15% but what's 5%. I change mine when it says 50% lol.When I had an Odyssey, I had Dealers here refuse to do it at 15.... who knows?
Wow, we would get in trouble if a car came in for a different service and had 15% oil life and the wrench glowing and not recommend to the customer an oil change. I'm pretty sure those dealers would get some crap from Honda if they were to find out aboot those shenanigans.
Anyways, I want an S2K for a track car. That's my plan once I finish all my USAF training.
BoxheadTim wrote: I'll have a good look at the tires when I go see the car, I know what track-type tire wear looks like but I am basically concerned that it's been used on the track (why would you buy one otherwise?).
Why would that concern you though really? I have put tens of thousands of miles on my street cars at racetracks. It doesn't hurt them more than a few salty winters as a city car would. If it has a factory warranty I'd just make sure it wasn't in a wreck and that everything mechanical is functional and sane.
Then I would take it to the track for a long weekend and find the weaknesses for the dealer to fix under warranty
No factory warranty left on the car.
The concern re the track use was simply "track use and no maintenance history". That would really concern me.
For some odd reason I think it'd see some track use if I bought it.
Well, went and had a look at it today.
Given the low mileage I wasn't super impressed with the condition of the paint, mainly in the front - untreated scratches down to the primer, lots of "detailing gone wrong" marks that made me wonder if the dealer hired Stevie Wonder to do the detail etc. Mechanically it seemed find and it might even have had an oil change as there's what looks like a non-OEM oil filter on it. The front end felt rather bouncy though, but I have a suspicion that it had something to do with the tire pressure warning light being on. All in all it's a neat car but I don't think it's worth the top money they're asking for it.
The killer however is that there appears to be an issue with the dealer accepting financing/payment from an out of state credit union, supposedly because of the inability to do a direct title/guarantee of title exchange against the bankers draft. At least that's how it was explained to me. Strangely enough the dealership would only be too happy to arrange financing for the car. Yeah right, I might have a funny accent but I didn't fall out of a tree yesterday.
I'll have a word with my loan officer at my local CU tomorrow to see if they were trying to give me a load of BS or if there is actually an issue with financing the purchase of an out of state vehicle. The latter would be really annoying given that there's a pretty limited choice of vehicles up here, whereas the market down in Sacramento and the Bay Area just offers a much wider choice.
Either way it looks like a rather wasted Sunday at the moment.
Sorry to hear that it was a wasted effort. To me, a 9000 mile car should look brand new. I'm not even sure it should need a real "detailing" yet!
BoxheadTim wrote: Strangely enough the dealership would only be too happy to arrange financing for the car. Yeah right, I might have a funny accent but I didn't fall out of a tree yesterday.
Yeah, that sounds like a line of bullE36 M3 to me, too.
Top money for a less-than-top-condition car, and a squirrely salesdouche? Pass. There are more S2Ks out there.
In reply to alex:
Yes - but. It's an S2000CR, they only made 699 of them. For a regular S2k I probably wouldn't have spent eight hours on the road in the first place.
OTOH it's not like my life wouldn't be complete without one.
There's a dealer here wanting $23k for a yellow S2000 CR. It has 73k miles on it or something like that. I looked at it, and it's nice, but definitely not $23k worth of nice. At least not to me.Linky
njansenv wrote: Sorry to hear that it was a wasted effort. To me, a 9000 mile car should look brand new. I'm not even sure it should need a real "detailing" yet!
According to the buyers guide in a certain magazine the paint scratches fairly easy and is pretty thin. That said, there's still a local car here that's got about three times the miles and that's in better condition with the exception of a mark on the front bumper where the owner had a bit of an argument with another object. To be perfect that car would need the bumper cover replaced and repainted (and it's my wife's least favorite color to put it mildly - she hates yellow cars), but in order to make the CR look as good as it deserves I would seriously consider repainting the whole front end.
rotard wrote: There's a dealer here wanting $23k for a yellow S2000 CR. It has 73k miles on it or something like that. I looked at it, and it's nice, but definitely not $23k worth of nice. At least not to me.Linky
Well, it's cheaper than the one I looked at . Oddly enough so far I've had the same feeling about the one I looked at yesterday - neat but not worth the money they're asking for it.
TBH I would think it's going to make much of a difference over an in-state check, would it? If I don't see the buyer draw the check at their bank, it might be iffy.
The way the explanation sounded to me was that the dealer would normally deal with the CU directly (which makes sense) but doesn't want to/can't do it with an out-of-state CU due to the added complications.
I'd understand if they're saying the me turning up with a draft from a CU unknown to them would be an issue, but that wouldn't be the case if they dealt with the CU directly, would it?
Well, I just got word back from the loan officer at my CU. She was too polite to call male bovine excrement on this, but basically stated that (a) they do this all the time (due to the limited market up here) and (b) they only need a handful of documents that the dealer needs to provide and should be able to provide.
I just bought a car from a major dealer in another state. They accepted my personal, out-of-state check after running a background check on me (not a credit check). I was surprised to say the least. Check amount was >not< challenge-legal, too. Title was mailed to me later, probably when the check cleared.
David
Last couple cars I bought were with loan checks from an out-of-state credit union, and were accepted by the dealers without issue. Twice I was buying in a third state too. Moral of the story is that F&I is where the dealer makes a lot of money, but if the sales guy / sales manager wants the sale he'll be able to push it through.
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