Ok, I've been fighting against this for a few hours now, so there has to be an easier way to do this.
We have to get the CV Axle out to drop the transmission, and it looks like Toyota made the transmission a structural member. In addition, the mount for the K member is in the way. There seems to be just one way to get a pry bar or crowbar on the back of the CV Axle, and I've only got a little bit of room to try and pry.
The YouTube tutorials seem to all be for the earlier generation of car, which has a lot more room to work with.
Orange: Part of the case that protrudes from the trans towards the driver side wheel, no access.
Greenish: You can get a flat prybar or crowbar in there, but the subframe mounting point doesn't give much room. We wind up with the fulcrum point at one of the control arm mounts.
Yellow: Subframe and mount point in the way from under the car.
Based on everything I've tried, it's impossible to get the curved part of a hammer or the crowbar behind the CV Axle and get minimal leverage to pry outwards.
If there isn't an easy way to do this with the trans in the car, I'm willing to drop the trans and get the axle out when it's out of the car. I can't think this is the actual procedure, though, because having to drop the subframe or the transmission to replace a CV axle seems ridiculous.
Shares the engine and likely the front axles with the Camry of the era. Is this Camry video any help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzkywfOCVoU&ab_channel=1AAuto%3ARepairTips%26SecretsOnlyMechanicsKnow
In reply to John Welsh :
I'm fighting with the driver's side, but maybe they have a video of that. Thanks for reminding me that the Camry is related to this!
2 minutes later.... Nope, the subframe on the TC is different and I can't get at it from the angle shown in the video. I've updated that in yellow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKeZYXFrhU4
I went to RockA and looked up a 2011 Scion tC cv shaft and the fitment guide says the part fits tC and Rav4. Might look for a Rav4 video since they are a popular car.
SCION TC 2011-2016
TOYOTA RAV4 2013-2018
Rav4 video
No Time
SuperDork
7/19/22 9:03 p.m.
I've found it easier to get a chain or cable around the inner cv housing and use a slide hammer to get it to pop out.
Way easier they fighting with a pry bar under there on the sloped inner joint housing.
On edit: there is also a real tool to use with the slide hammer. The local part store may have the slide hammer and tool as part of their loaner tool program.
RAV4 video shows a slide hammer being used as well. That seems to be the way.
Yes, parts stores rent slide hammers. I have rented one for a bearing/hub removal in the past. I find that Oreilies has the best rental tools if you have one of those near.
No Time
SuperDork
7/19/22 9:10 p.m.
I just took a look and it appear Autozone has both he CV adapter and slide hammer in their loan a tool catalog.
Can you get the shaft out of the other side? RHammer and a relativity thin but long and sturdy screwddriver, past the side of the diff pin and hit the end of the axle.
On my Rav4, I couldn't pry the rear axles out when I was doing my subframe replacement, and I had the room to get a big pry bar in there. A forum post suggested using a blunt chisel on the flat section of the axle and gently hitting it with a hammer in the direction you want it to go. That worked like a charm!
I like to use lady foot pry bars for low clearance CVs
I need some lady feet pry bars. I also need a new creeper, since mine has finally had enough of my 200 pound ass dropping onto it constantly. I'll pick them up tonight.
Updates to come as they happen.
Streetwiseguy said:
Can you get the shaft out of the other side? RHammer and a relativity thin but long and sturdy screwddriver, past the side of the diff pin and hit the end of the axle.
This method has saved my ass a couple of times. The passenger side on most toyotas is going to have an intermediate shaft, meaning no circlip in the diff... once unbolted from the engine the whole passenger axle assembly will just slide right out.
Side note - getting the transmission back into the car with the passenger axle in place is often a nightmare... it's one more thing to try and line up while your lying under the car wrestling a greasy 100 lb transmission. 9/10 You'll end up removing that axle anyway in order to get things back together. Might as well just pull it now.
No Time said:
I've found it easier to get a chain or cable around the inner cv housing and use a slide hammer to get it to pop out.
This is what I usually do. I use the chain from my engine hoist and put the slide hammer stud through the chain. Usually have to have a helper or bungee hold the axle away while its happening.
kb58
SuperDork
7/20/22 6:41 p.m.
I had a WaveTrak LSDs cause me all sorts of problems like this. They had machined the C-clip grooves too deep on a early batch of these, making it so that once inserted, the C-clip would pop out so far that it locked it in place. It happened to enough people that WavTrak ended up offering to get the axle out for you - if you brought them the tranny with the axle stuck in it. Lucky for me they were within driving distance, because I fought that thing for hours and was pretty sure that I'd crack the transmission case had I persisted.
Check out part from OTC 7509. Slide hammer and the u-bolt piece that slides around the inner CV cup is how we used to do it. A few whacks and it would pop right out.
I rarely pry out CV axles. Instead, a take a large, smooth tip screwdriver, and insert it between the case and the axle, just offset from where the splines would be. Then I just tap on the end of the screwdriver. The wedge action of the screwdriver pops the axle out easily and smoothly. Much easier and less likely to cause damage vs. prying.
This is the same idea, but a screwdriver works just fine. Plus they come in lots of sizes for cheap.
Axle wedge tool
I can get the smallest lady foot pry bar back there, but can't get leverage on it, due to space issues as noted above.
It seems a slide hammer is the only way to do this, at all. I have the teens tasked to rent one from a local FLAPS.
Boost_Crazy said:
I rarely pry out CV axles. Instead, a take a large, smooth tip screwdriver, and insert it between the case and the axle, just offset from where the splines would be. Then I just tap on the end of the screwdriver. The wedge action of the screwdriver pops the axle out easily and smoothly. Much easier and less likely to cause damage vs. prying.
This is the same idea, but a screwdriver works just fine. Plus they come in lots of sizes for cheap.
Axle wedge tool
This was the 2nd thing I tried, there is no way to get it lined up with the axle and tap on it. Everything is in the way.
Slide hammer: Three whacks and out.
Slide hammer was the answer all along.
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Agent of Chaos) :
Because it pulls straight on the axle. Usually the issue with a prybar is that it cockeyes the axle and wedges it in place. A second prybar opposite the first one usually helps.
This is why I bought a set of Gearwrench adjustable prybars as soon as I was aware of their existence. You can get the right angle to pry the top when working through the wheelwell. I would not say it makes all axles a breeze but it at least makes 90% of the difficult ones possible.
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Agent of Chaos) :
Woot.
andy_b
New Reader
7/24/22 10:54 p.m.
If I can't pop the axle out in 1 minute of trying, then the backup plan is to pop the clip on the inner cv boot clamp and pull the axle shaft out, leaving the stub shaft in the transmission . That typically gets you the clearance you need, and also keeps the transmission sealed, minimizing mess and avoiding the need to drain/fill if it doesn't need it. Wrap a zip tie around the cv axle bits and then stick a baggy around the whole thing to contain the grease. It may not be elegant but requires no special tools and only takes a minute.