It's not good unless you need to use a coathanger to rake the goo out of the block after you have the water pump out.
I have no idea why the 2.5 is so prone to that.
It's not good unless you need to use a coathanger to rake the goo out of the block after you have the water pump out.
I have no idea why the 2.5 is so prone to that.
Keith wrote: You just destroyed the collector's value of the Jeep. That was original coolant. They're only original once, you know.
The original coolant is safely stored in a jug under the workbench. It will be included in the future sale of the Jeep so that interested parties may restore the vehicle to it's original glory.
Shawn
Woody wrote:eebasist wrote: What's the rest of the Jeep look like? how much did it run ya?Perfect and $1500.
Oh snap! I paid 5 grand for this guy:
And it was the best deal around here...
Joey
$1500...
Trans_Maro wrote:Keith wrote: You just destroyed the collector's value of the Jeep. That was original coolant. They're only original once, you know.The original coolant is safely stored in a jug under the workbench. It will be included in the future sale of the Jeep so that interested parties may restore the vehicle to it's original glory. Shawn
Actually, the original coolant was safely sprayed all over the highway.
Jensenman wrote: PS 4.0's need to be filled with coolant through the heater hoses or you'll trap an air bubble high in the cooling system that's very hard to 'burp'. That hose at the upper right of your pic: cut it at about the halfway point, then use a funnel to fill the engine and heater core with coolant. Then put it back together witha brass hose splicer.
No, don't do that. You just create two more leak points. Just pull that heater hose off while you fill it. When the coolant runs out with no bubbles put the heater hose on. Ive been doing this for years and years and NEVER had a problem.
I think I have a used top assy. Interested?
car39 wrote: I think I have a used top assy. Interested?
I would have been, but I ordered a Bestop from Quadratec for $377. Thanks anyway.
In reply to car39:
I may be...What do you have? I dont have any of the bows or anything...
Joey
damn, maybe I should check my water pump...
It's an easy job and the pump was only $35.
That's awesome...man people need to start understanding more about cooling systems! I had to flush my Challenge car's cooling system for hours to get the chunky orange stuff out of the block and radiator. It was nasty!
Lots of people have no idea your supposed to flush a cooling system over the life of a car. They just keep topping them off with hose water.
joey48442 wrote: In reply to car39: I may be...What do you have? I dont have any of the bows or anything... Joey
what I have now is a mystery. Everyone remembers the Jeep had a soft top, no one can remember where the heck it went. Corporate Alzheimers
Hmmmm......
Wanted: 4.0 Jeep engine...
Woody wrote: Looks like it came from right in your neighborhood, too.
Woody -
You didn't move have a house up for sale in the past two years or so, did you? Reason I'm asking is my wife and I looked at a house down the street a few years back and I could tell it was owned by a "car guy". I seem to remember a Mazda banner similar to the one you have in your garage. IIRC, the garage had a an early 90s RX-7 and a Miata. And I think there was a Mini in the carport outside.
I know it's a longshot, but it wouldn't surprise me if the owner of that house was a GRM reader.
Not my house, but if you've got a pair of Miatas, I suspect that I know where you are.
Woody wrote: Hmmmm......Wanted: 4.0 Jeep engine...
Dood. That's easy. 
Hardest part is getting the welding rod up in there... 
Lsx
I was going to say J-B weld as well.
If it got hot enough to crack that part of the block I'd say the head may be cracked as well. The 4L will crack right in the middle and you should be able to tell by pulling the valve cover. It will look like sludge around the cracked area.
I have a cracked 4L head sitting on my garage floor.
If you go the new motor route make sure it's a '99 or older. The '00 Wrangler with the electronic ignition (coil packs) has a different block and head. I found this out the hard way a few weeks ago.
fornetti14 wrote: If you go the new motor route make sure it's a '99 or older. The '00 Wrangler with the electronic ignition (coil packs) has a different block and head. I found this out the hard way a few weeks ago.
Thanks for the '99 or older tip. I didn't know they were that different.
I'm not sure if those are cracks or shadows from the coolant stream in the camera flash. Either way, I'm dumping this engine.
why not just replace the freeze plug first?
Nice action shot, I stand by my saline coolant comment
Cotton wrote: why not just replace the freeze plug first?
The compression numbers were bad and I have to assume that all of the freeze plugs are equally corroded. There's one at the back of the cylinder head and two inside the bell housing. Engine has to come out anyway and I don't want to do it twice.
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