GameboyRMH wrote: So measuring the existing shim & bucket height to find the required shimless bucket size as explained here isn't a good idea?
That way works too... but as author pointed out... a few chances of screwing it up. Not saying mine is better. When I did this, at the end I was only off on one, and I lucked out because it ended up tight. With it tight, I just disassembled the valve and had the valve tipped to spec, then re-assembled
1SZ bucket supplier.... http://toyotparts.wix.com/toyota28mm
In reply to GameboyRMH:
Correct, measuring with the cam you have wont do any good when/if you put in new cams. Good luck but i suggest you buy a haynes manual and forget the lazy island mechanics. Even if you put in a hour a day, hell an hour a WEEK you would have gotten more done quicker than your last "mechanic" and best of all between the manual, google, and us, you will have all the knowledge you need for yourself to be a very competent mechanic. Btw its not going to him is it?
I get that I'll have to measure from scratch if I change cams...which now that I think of it, means it makes no sense to change to shimless buckets without changing cams, or I'd risk potentially having to toss all those buckets and buy different ones to put in with a performance cam. That would be just my luck.
The car is going back to the same guy who built the engine and did only a few days' work on the car throughout 2015, but he's taking responsibility for this failure, so my options are to take it to him now, let the car sit until June when I could afford the tools to DIY it (and I've never worked on engine internals before), or let the car sit until maybe August when I can afford to take it to someone else.
Even though this car was 10 years in the making, I've learned from this project that I have no business trying to modify a car at such a fast pace, it damn near ruined me. A big part of why I waited so long to tow the car away in 2015 was saving up to pay another shop to basically start from scratch on the electrical system. I'm already starting to plan my next project and I'm going to allocate more like 15-20yrs for this one. Should be ready in time for my midlife crisis 
In reply to GameboyRMH:
Hey, at least you're committed. 
Hey OST, do you have a source for JDM parts? I have a JDM EPC, so I can get the part numbers, but the regular dealers just look at you funny.
Dr. Hess wrote: Hey OST, do you have a source for JDM parts? I have a JDM EPC, so I can get the part numbers, but the regular dealers just look at you funny.
EP Importers - I use their service for Yahoo Japan auctions... Robert is the proprietor
but I'm pretty sure he'll get you anything you want... with a small fee attached.
Well I found out what it was...the mechanic said all the top-end bearings (so far) are burned up, it looks as if it suffered oil starvation. Oil was near the high mark on the dipstick, the most prolonged cornering I did so far was going around roundabouts, and I was so vigilant against this problem that I was constantly glancing at the oil pressure warning light when doing so.
This problem's going to set me back to the end of the year at least. I've already spent all I could to fix the other problems I've had so far this year.
GameboyRMH wrote: Well I found out what it was...the mechanic said all the top-end bearings (so far) are burned up, it looks as if it suffered oil starvation. Oil was near the high mark on the dipstick, the most prolonged cornering I did so far was going around roundabouts, and I was so vigilant against this problem that I was constantly glancing at the oil pressure warning light when doing so. This problem's going to set me back to the end of the year at least. I've already spent all I could to fix the other problems I've had so far this year.
just a quick question... did you happen to use ARP studs for the head???
If you are interested... maybe we could work out some sort of deal... maybe a trade... or delayed payment???
If I recall, there are no top end bearings. The bearing surface is the aluminum of the head. A rod bearing will grenade WAY before a cam not-a-bearing will have any damage at all. I smell something island-y going on. I'd say "show me the damage."
In reply to oldeskewltoy:
I'll keep them in mind. What are the shipping costs, in general? I see they are in Japan. I need some things like a Hose-From-Hell for a 4th gen 3SGTE, etc. Little things.
Brain fade on my part here as it has been a while since I rebuilt a 4age but I am wondering if the wrong head gasket was used or if it was flipped causing oil starvation to the head. Also as others have said there are no bearings in a 4age head. The cams ride directly on the aluminum head that has been machined to accept the cam.
Another thing to note there is a factory recommended upgrade for the oil pump that you may want to consider if it has not already been done.
GameboyRMH wrote: .... I was constantly glancing at the oil pressure warning light when doing so...
Get a real oil pressure gauge. Once the light is on it is usually already too late.
He could have proper oil pressure to the bottom end and still none to the top end. In this case, no warning until the noise.
Used a new Toyota oil pump when the engine was rebuilt, I assume this would be the same as the factory recommended upgrade?
I got the news yesterday second-hand from the mechanic who owns the shop property, not the guy who built the engine (he's hard to reach). Turns out he was talking about the built-in bearing surfaces rather than any separate bearing...which is worse, because that might mean I need a new head. A new rare 4AGE redtop head. Imported. 
Anyway I went to the shop this morning, the engine builder wasn't there but I had a look at what he'd disassembled already and took some pics.
Here's an overview shot and you can already see why the builder suspected oil starvation. The pits that the #3 exhaust lifters sit in seem completely devoid of oil. Some of the others seem pretty low too.
The "not-a-bearing cap" over cyl3 had been removed, probably because these cams are completely dry to the touch, as if they'd been degreased and had been sitting on a shelf for a while. The others are oily and smooth at least. Here's the damage underneath, I can feel it with my fingernail:
Should've taken a pic under the not-a-bearing cap, I might go out later and do that, the shop isn't far.
Edit: Also I didn't use ARP studs for the head, all the engine bolts & studs are from the dealership.
Its not a "not a bearing cap" its a cam journal cap. They technically are bearing but not in the sense you were thinking with a replaceable bearing, the cam rides directly on the aluminum. Thats terrible luck man but if the head has that little oil id suspect the bottom end too unless like mentioned before the head gasket was put on wrong and starved just the head. E36 M3 luck man im sorry
I wonder if a piece of oil filter came out and wedged itself into the oil passage to the head, or in the head to the exhaust side if the intake side is okay.
Usually this happens after someone does an oil change with a shrinkwrapped oil filter and removes the shrink wrap by poking their finger into the center. If you're sloppy, you can cut some plastic off against the filter's threads, leaving it loose in the filter. The threaded side is the engine (filtered) side, meaning it will go straight into the oil passages.
It's still theoretically possible that a piece of filter element broke out. Slim but possible. Anyway, remove shrink wrap by slicing it with a razor blade against the body, or by grabbing it and stretching/tearing it off like skinning a rabbit, not by poking the plastic!
iceracer wrote: He could have proper oil pressure to the bottom end and still none to the top end. In this case, no warning until the noise.
Unless it is plumbed into the head. This is engine specific I know, and I know nothing about Japanese engines.
Can you get a photo of the cam Jornal surfaces? Also the cam journals can be welded up and then machined back to spec. May be cheaper than a new unknown head.
smallport heads are not import only... they are available... but not cheap (I've got one currently for sale for $400)
If you are truly having an oil supply problem to the head, #5 intake journal is the last to get oil.
As to the exhaust side free of oil... it has sat for a while... and the exhaust side is where the head drains... being free of oil at this point isn't a big clue........
To Dr Hess... I didn't find any of their fees unreasonable... but email them and ask....
Get your hands on that oil filter and cut it open, they can tell a story there, if not be there when they cut it open. If the shop owner is a stand up guy he will recognize any mistakes of the engine builder and stand behind repairs. Not versed on these engines at all but if it as simple as reversing the HG to block oil ports as someone mentioned ... well, E36 M3 happens but they need to back you up.
Best of luck.
Went and got pics of the #3 journal cap surface, with and without flash. Had some oil on it but I wiped it off for the pic. Like the surface on the cam, it feels smooth to your fingers, but if you run your fingernail over it you can feel the scoring. It's probably a little better than the cam surface though. Looks like some material might've been chipped off the right edge.
That doesn't look like what it normally looks like when you run a bearing dry. It will be galled, look almost peeled, and there will be aluminum stuck to the camshaft itself.
I'd get some Plastigage and see what the journal clearance really is. If the scoring is that minor, it is unlikely that the clearance is actually affected.
From my thousand mile vantage point, I think your noise was elsewhere.
That does not look bad.
I never heard a starved cam journal make the engine noise on your video.
To me your engine builder is looking at the wrong place.
GameboyRMH wrote: Went and got pics of the #3 journal cap surface, with and without flash. Had some oil on it but I wiped it off for the pic. Like the surface on the cam, it feels smooth to your fingers, but if you run your fingernail over it you can feel the scoring. It's probably a little better than the cam surface though. Looks like some material might've been chipped off the right edge.
I agree. The noise doesn't fit what you're seeing. And those cam journals are probably runable. There's not a whole lot of strain there, unlike a rod big end.
OST, he has to import everything and pay import duty. He's on an island in the Caribbean.
You'll need to log in to post.
