Currently I'm enjoying a clutch issue that renders my '07 Scion tC completely undriveable. A month ago, the shifting action went from its usual smooth and well-weighted to notchy with no apparent pattern to its notchiness. After determining the clutch master and slave were not leaking, I flushed and bled the entire brake and clutch system since they share a reservoir and it was time anyway. This improved matters but did not clear up the problem completely. I consulted the four-volume, 2,000-plus page shop manual (don't get me started) for the next course of action, which pointed to worn shift cables (evidently, the cable end bushings on the first-gen tC are not replaceable normally). These are a 350-dollar-ish item so I wanted to be sure.
About two days ago, the shifting took a turn for the worse. However, the car was still driveable. Now, the car will not shift at all, plus the clutch will not release. If I manage to get it into (any) gear, it will stall while stopping, even with the clutch pedal to the floor. Since the clutch shows no symptoms of slipping, I'm thinking the throwout bearing or the pilot gave up the ghost, even though it never made any noise. It will now make a slight metal-on-metal sound. Clutch pedal freeplay is in the normal range. The only thing I haven't ascertained is possible engine/trans mount failure which can cause shifting issues.
The most galling aspect: If it proves to be a trans-out operation, I may have to farm this one out. I just don't have the time for a full-boogie job at this particular moment. Except for one instance in my 20s plus the odd AC service, crash damage repair or tire mounting, I have never handed my car over to a mechanic. This includes 17 engine rebuilds (for myself and others) and about 50 clutches. If anything needs doing, I just tear into it. So I have no clue regarding who to trust in the Glendale, CA area. Glendale Toyota once told my wife she needed a new/rebuilt transmission for her Camry, which I fixed with a can of Seafoam Trans Tune and my own me-rigged trans flush setup. So I trust them as far as I can throw them. If anyone knows a good car thrasher in my area, I would be heavily indebted. Any thoughts on my Scion's current state of affairs would be appreciated as well.
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
I am just bumping this so it is back on page 1 this evening when more eyes will see it.
I had that exact same problem on my Scion tC. It ended up being one of the clutch disc springs have broken off. Had to change the disc. It went from bad to undriveable really quick.
The clutch job on that car was a piece of cake. Took my brother and I like 3 hours to do. The car was a 2005.
My B14 Sentra did that when my throw out bearing. My clutch was relatively newer but some one jacked up the install.
Slippery said:
I had that exact same problem on my Scion tC. It ended up being one of the clutch disc springs have broken off. Had to change the disc. It went from bad to undriveable really quick.
I jsut swapped a clutch in a Honda Fit a few weeks ago with this same exact failure mode.. and the engagement to the shifter gates had gotten notchy ahead of the failure.. so i'm willing to put money on this being the failure mode of the clutch.
In reply to spacecadet (Forum Supporter) :
It's funny because every failed clutch I have ever dealt with started slipping when the linings got skinny. I've never experienced this type of failure before personally, though I've read about it happening.
Speaking of Slippery, I'm gonna go stare at it awhile and read the procedures. For me, the big issue is handling the trans after it's off the engine. In the old days, I just leaned over the fender and lowered it to the ground. I usually have the flywheel surfaced and change the rear main seal as well.
TurnerX19 said:
I am just bumping this so it is back on page 1 this evening when more eyes will see it.
Thank you sir. Looks like your strategy got the ball rolling.
In reply to Jerry From LA :
If you do decide to tackle this job yourself, please take photos and post them here, as I'd like to see what the job entails.
In reply to Woody (Forum Supportum) :
Will do. In the act of staring now.
Jerry From LA said:
In reply to spacecadet (Forum Supporter) :
Speaking of Slippery, I'm gonna go stare at it awhile and read the procedures. For me, the big issue is handling the trans after it's off the engine. In the old days, I just leaned over the fender and lowered it to the ground. I usually have the flywheel surfaced and change the rear main seal as well.
This happened very early in the car's life, it probably had around 100k miles but only 3 or so years. I did not really have to change much.
I bought new Redline transmission fluid, a brand new Toyota disc and that's it. I did not resurface the flywheel and it did not even need to come off.
I remember removing three bolts on the bottom of the a-arms in order to be able to swing out the axles. I don't think I removed the axles from the hubs, only the transmission. Exhaust was a easy, just removed the pipe under the oil pan and the cross-member there.
There are three mounts that you need to remove; the transmission one under the airbox and the two in front/rear of the engine. The last two I left attached to the engine and just removed the two bolts that attach them to the crossbar the runs lengthwise.
The engine stayed put with the passenger mount and a jack under the oil pan. Lowering the transmission was simple, balance it on a jack. Installing it is more difficult as you have to line up the input shaft, but a jack helped here as well.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.
I do not think I have any pictures, but I will try and look tonight.
You also need to disconnect the shifter cables, they were easily accesible once the airbox had come off.
I am going from memory here as it was over 10 years ago. But I did it at my brother's house and brought all the tools needed from my house, no fancy tools needed. This is what has me thinking the axles never got disconnected from the hub as my brother does not have an air compressor or any major tools.
In reply to Slippery :
There's nothing about this job that's much different than any other FWD clutch job which I've done a bunch of times. The issue is whatever else is going on in my life conspiring at this particular moment that keeps me from diving in there. I watched a video of a young kid doing the job. He couldn't get the car sitting high enough on jack stands so he pulled the driver's driveshaft all the way out, then undid the two bolts at the bottom of the hub so he could swing the assembly out of the way and drag the trans out through the wheelwell. I thought it was good improv on his part and may end up doing the same thing. Other than that, it's just another clutch job.
Actually, one of the things I'm supposed to do is fix my stepdaughter's exhaust system. I told her I don't have room and I can't chase parts so she's going to punt and go to a muffler shop instead. If I could clear the decks in other ways, I think I might dive in there. Which means I have to think about which clutch to buy.....
In reply to Jerry From LA :
Buy a Toyota one.
In reply to Jerry From LA :
Might be worth it?
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) and Slippery :
Yes and no. Usually, I figure out who manufactures the parts for Toyota. Then I buy the parts from them. With the clutch, it's probably either Aisin or Daikin. An Aisin clutch kit runs about $159 from Rock Auto before the GRM discount code. The clutch master and slave are Aisin. They cost about half what the dealer wants. With our old Camry, an Aisin water pump and housing was $60. It was exactly like the Toyota part except it didn't have "Toyota" cast into it and it didn't cost $120.
Okay, I've made my decision.......I'm going in. So what was that Rock Auto discount code again?
I see you are in Glendale, Im in Sunland so if you need a hand let me know. 661-607-3125
In reply to Jerry From LA :
That works too - it's from the original manufacturer and not Bob's eBay Clucth Emporium (shipped direct from China)
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I just found out it is indeed an Aisin. That'll come from Japan. My car is Japan-built. Sachs is a reboxed Exedy. I considered LuK for a moment but the price seemed low. I know that sounds weird but I used to charge $300 for a clutch job a couple of epochs ago and expected $100 of that to be the clutch itself. Buying a clutch now for the same money (actually less than a hun) seems a little off.
In reply to MulletTruck :
I might take you up on that when I'm working against gravity and mounting the trans. In the olden days, I'd just reach over the fender, offer it up to the motor, and spin a couple bolts in there right quick. Probably why I have spinal stenosis now.
My recreation area for the next few days. I'll have to work on it on and off until it's done. Hopefully more on than off.
In reply to Jerry From LA :
Good luck!
Aisin clutch kit on the way.
