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Curtis
Curtis GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/19/18 12:34 p.m.
ShawneeCreek said:

Second suggestion, you might be able to get a "narrower" tire even within the current 265 size. The 265 refers to the section width (aka, overall width). What you are really looking for is a narrower tread width, which can vary from tire line to tire line. Essentially the tire will be more balloon shaped and less squared off. Get a close look at the specifications for the tires you are looking at.

I did go that route, but two things prevent that from being really viable.  The variations in treadwidth within the same section width are on the order of 1/2" and I'm looking for more like 2".  Secondly, choosing the tire solely based on the thinnest tread width kinda shoe-horns me into a very small selection of tires that I may or may not like.  For instance, the Hankook DynaPro has a slightly narrower treadwidth, but I've had DynaPros and didn't really like them.

I'll probably end up biting the bullet and going with the same size (31 x 10.5-15) in BFG AT KO2.

ShawneeCreek
ShawneeCreek GRM+ Memberand Reader
9/19/18 12:52 p.m.

In reply to Curtis :

Kind of. The sidewalls will be mostly the same with the possible exception of the body plies. The thick rubber portions will be the same especially if the section heights (from the bead to the tread) are the same. In order to hold that extra air pressure, to support that extra weight, the sidewalls need to be stronger in tension. This can be achieved with stronger plies (better polyester, or switching to Rayon or steel) or adding a third ply.

The number and material type of the plies is required by law to be stamped in the sidewalls of the tires. You might have to go to each tire manufacturer's websites, but you should be able to get that information.

Also, while that load range E tire may be stiffer, you can compensate for it by lowering the air pressure. Just keep an eye on tread wear for the first few thousand miles to be sure that is not set too low. And remember to add air in when you have the truck loaded.

Other things like the width of the tire, tread pattern, age, and load can effect how stiff the tire feels too.

ShawneeCreek
ShawneeCreek GRM+ Memberand Reader
9/19/18 12:54 p.m.

Yeah, I kind of figured that. Most of the time tires with narrower treads for their size are cheaper and have lower performance. It's all about tradeoffs.

Curtis
Curtis GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/19/18 12:58 p.m.
ShawneeCreek said:

In reply to Curtis :

Kind of. The sidewalls will be mostly the same with the possible exception of the body plies. The thick rubber portions will be the same especially if the section heights (from the bead to the tread) are the same. In order to hold that extra air pressure, to support that extra weight, the sidewalls need to be stronger in tension. This can be achieved with stronger plies (better polyester, or switching to Rayon or steel) or adding a third ply.

The number and material type of the plies is required by law to be stamped in the sidewalls of the tires. You might have to go to each tire manufacturer's websites, but you should be able to get that information.

Also, while that load range E tire may be stiffer, you can compensate for it by lowering the air pressure. Just keep an eye on tread wear for the first few thousand miles to be sure that is not set too low. And remember to add air in when you have the truck loaded.

Other things like the width of the tire, tread pattern, age, and load can effect how stiff the tire feels too.

I figured I could do E-range and just run them at the 35 psi suggested on the door, but the C-range on there now at 35 psi is plenty stiff with the existing suspension.  I just don't want to go stiffer, and I know that E-range at the same psi will be less compliant.  Then it's a question of whether or not I can tolerate the ride to get the look and performance I want.

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